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Window Films: Is the energy saving fact or fiction?

Do you use window films?

  • Did it once, won't do that again!

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    8

svetz

Works in theory! Practice? That's something else
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Unlike the old days, many of the window films appear perfectly clear to regular light wavelengths (you can still get tinted varieties too).

2011 DOE Study
  • Some LowE films have a 3 year Payback
  • Single-pane glass showed paybacks in as short as 1.4 years
  • Double-pane glass showed paybacks in as short as 2.1 years
  • Annual energy savings as much as 19 kWh/sq ft (200 kWh/sq m) of glass
3M™ Sun Control Window Film Ceramic Series
  • Rejects up to 80% of the sun's heat-producing infrared rays.
  • Reject up to 59% of heat coming through your windows
  • Blocks 99% the UV rays that cause furniture fading
  • limited lifetime warranty (when professionally installed on your home)
LowE
1617733570212.png
Ceramic
1617733455810.png
Spectrally Selective
1617733972747.png
 
They might be clear, but they seem to block a lot of light. Probably harder to see out of at night.

Update: Some are very clear, see the 3M "simulator"
 
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Installed them on my old a-frame folding camper. It made a big difference, especially for windows in the sun. Before the sunbeams were hot, afterward they were not.
Installation note: The rolls you buy in the hardware store are too tightly rolled. It takes days, a flat surface, and some soft weights (life jacket, pillows, etc) to get the curl out.
 
This video talks about the various films; says Ceramic film is about $6 to $7/ sqft. Sunlight glare reduction at 5:45, $5/sqft.

At 9:46 they test films with a BTU meter (? Solar transmission & power).

Interesting issue with Ceramic film: Low angle haze
 
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When I built our house the inspector had a problem with a window near a bathtub that wasn’t the proper breaking type glass like auto glass.

He passed us after I had a clear film applied and there is little optical difference that I can notice. Unfortunately I don’t recall exactly what film it was, I was just glad to please the inspector!
 
We will eventally replace these windows and not sure how much fancy coatings or films will help us when we do. We added an 8 foot deep porch on the west side of our house, and a 12 foot deep porch on the south side, so the windows that used to pick up the most heat are now well shaded.

(Now I just need to get healthy enough to finish the siding.)
 
Video of Ceramic film shattering glass?
That's probably why manufacturers void the warranty when it's put on double-paned glass.

Not quite sure why that's happening. The film should be reflecting the IR, not absorbing it. Possibly the heat is building up in the chamber behind the glass pane and it's a thermal expansion as the other side is cool (that is ΔT is too high across the glass)?
 
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3M has a "simulator" of sorts so you can "see" what the different types of window films look like.
 
I have mylar on all windows.
Not to save cash but because I like to keep all the curtains open so that I can see whats doing in the valley.
Its like sunglasses for the house.
 
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We've had film on some of our windows for 10+ years. I haven't done a before/after analysis, but it does seem to help. Our air conditioning bill is always higher than our heating bill. We have a couple of windows that have lost their integrity between the double panes. They're windows that aren't getting as much sun as larger windows, so I don't know that I can blame the film.

If I build a house or replace these windows, I'll use higher quality windows and maybe go triple pane instead of using film.
 
Looks like you can DIY the 3M ceramic for ~$2/sqft. The spectral stuff looks a lot more expensive (or I wasn't looking in the right places).
 
Heard back from the window manufacturer, any sort of window film voids the warranty. :cry:
 
From the EPA Carbon Footprint calculator, energy-efficient windows can reduce my carbon footprint by > 4 tons per year....that's enough to offset the carbon emissions from my car doing 12k miles a year.
But only a few windows catch the morning sun, all the other windows
are usually in the shade.

Could it really save that?

What makes an energy-efficient window / door?

There's more here, but in general, it's a multiple pane window to reduce
convection, frames that reduce conductive heat loss, and a film to
block/reflect high energy UV and frequencies.

AFAIK, a window film generally only addresses the radiation.

Unlike most of the world, it doesn't generally get cold here, the
average temperature difference between inside and outside is < 12°F
in summer and there aren't enough cold days to matter.

How much AC must I provide for them?

Conduction is Heat/Time = k/d A(Thot - Tcold) where k is the thermal
conductivity of the material (0.96 W/m/h/°C or 0.169179 BTU/ft/h/F)
for glass) and d is the thickness of the barrier.
1627473470669.png

When I lived in Colorado with a winter temp of -10°F then the temperature driver is (22- (-23) =45, 9x higher than it is here for summer. So, a lot of the EPA savings is probably around winter temperatures.

The more common way for windows is with the R-Value. A 1/4" glass window has an R-value of .90, a double-paned window 1.7.
Heat loss/gain = area (ft²) ΔT (°F)/ R-Value. To meet EnergyStar there must be an R-Value no less than 1.56.

My windows are "safety glass", which is two sheets of 1/16th inch glass with a PVB laminate center (0.12 BTU/ft² h °F). So, how much heat am I gaining through them in summer? As there are three layers you can solve it with some calculous, or cheat and look and look it up on their datasheet. For me, it's an R-Value of 1.1. So, per square foot of window and 13°F ΔT that's 11.8 BTUs/hr/ft². So, if I had 400 ft² of windows, that would be ~4700 BTU/hr heat gain. A 60 watt incandescent light bulb generates 204.72 BTU/h, so that/s about 23 light bulbs.

But, with energy star windows at 1.56, I'd have 8.3 BTUs/hr/ft² heat loss, or for 400 ft² would be 3333 BTU/hr. So, it would only save~1400 BTU/hr, or the heat from < 7 sixty watt light bulbs.

So, probably not worth it for me. I suspect most of my energy losses are from air leaks and doors being left open that lets gallons of water in the form of humidity enter the house that the AC needs to remove. Wonder if an "air-lock" type entrance would make a difference?

So, not much incoming solar radiation for me means window films aren't worth it and the low return on replacing the windows means it isn't worth it.

But if you live in cold climates, I can easily see how it might be worth it.

For example, that -10°F in Colorado, for 1/4" glass windows that's 78/.9 x 400 = 34,666 BTU/hr loss for the same 400 ft² of windows.
Brrr!
 
When I built our house the inspector had a problem with a window near a bathtub that wasn’t the proper breaking type glass like auto glass.

He passed us after I had a clear film applied and there is little optical difference that I can notice. Unfortunately I don’t recall exactly what film it was, I was just glad to please the inspector!
Sounds like your talking about tempered glass/versus non tempered.

From what I understand its gotten crazy here in California due to the fire hazard/risk... But I've not really followed it.

You'd much rather fall into/thru a tempered glass window than not.

I know my solar panels are "semi" tempered.
 
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