My water heater can be powered by electric or propane. When I'm off grid I usually use propane.That water heater is going to be a bugger.
I assume its electric
My water heater can be powered by electric or propane. When I'm off grid I usually use propane.That water heater is going to be a bugger.
I assume its electric
My water heater can be powered by electric or propane. When I'm off grid I usually use propane.
Well, if you can fit 2000 watts of solar (or more) on the roof you can get maybe 8 hours a day. Of course, you have to park in the full sun. Assuming the panels are mounted flat, you need way more than the rated wattage as you will never come close to the rating while mounted flat.
Or, you could insulate, cover windows and park in the shade with good ventilation. If you are camping in dry areas, a swamp cooler might work for you and takes a fraction of the power. Not to discourage your dreams but AC on mobile solar is tough.
Well, if you can fit 2000 watts of solar (or more) on the roof you can get maybe 8 hours a day. Of course, you have to park in the full sun. Assuming the panels are mounted flat, you need way more than the rated wattage as you will never come close to the rating while mounted flat.
Or, you could insulate, cover windows and park in the shade with good ventilation. If you are camping in dry areas, a swamp cooler might work for you and takes a fraction of the power. Not to discourage your dreams but AC on mobile solar is tough.
Solar powered air conditioning in a RV is just a real tough problem.
To get the solar to feed your ac you have to park your tin can in the full sun which just makes the problem worse.
@ghostwriter66 had some good ideas that apply here.Yeh I have noticed its a bit of a sore subject. I wouldn't even necessarily plan to have the solar take the entire load of the AC, moreso just that it would prevent the batteries from draining in a very short period of time.
Seems like the thread got a bit off base. Lets forget the idea of using the AC off battery power.
Assuming I had 4 clusters of the Renogy 400w solar "kits", so 4 separate charge controllers, a large battery bank, and the 3000w renogy inverter. What do you guys suggest as far as wiring. I just want to make sure that the solar setups charge the batteries evenly, and that the inverter drains the batteries evenly.
assuming this one https://www.renogy.com/3000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter/
3000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 12 volts = 294.117647059 dc amps
294.117647059 dc amps * 1.25 fuse factor = 367.647058824 fuse amps
that means a 350 amp anl or class t fuse and 4/0 awg wire.
Assuming 105 Celsius rated wire and less than 20 feet round trip.
I could be totally wrong but it doesnt seem like the SEER systems are all that much more efficient. The RV unit is 13500 BTU and pulls 1200w or so while running. A 12,000BTU SEER unit pulls about 1000w.The challenge of AC on solar becomes considerably less daunting if you forget about the low-effciency roof mounted unit that came on your RV and look into a small 20+ SEER mini split system. There are a number of examples of people running these systems successfully while boondocking.
Yeh I have noticed its a bit of a sore subject. I wouldn't even necessarily plan to have the solar take the entire load of the AC, moreso just that it would prevent the batteries from draining in a very short period of time.
Yes I am only referring to the master fuse and the master wires.Thats just between the battery bank and the inverter correct? Should I do fuses anywhere else, and do I need any other hardware to ensure that multiple batteries charge evenly from multiple charge controllers?
Thats exactly what I'm doing. you guys have already helped me, and saved me a couple bucks regarding the 4kw inverter haha. Now I just need to figure out battery capacity and wiring.it isn't that it is a sore subject, at least not with me. It is just a significant engineering challenge and many don't understand just how difficult it is. Sounds like you are wrapping your head around that and figuring out where you want/need to go.
Yes I am only referring to the master fuse and the master wires.
Yes you should do fuses elesewhere.
Time for a drawing.
No additional hardware is required to ensure multiple batteries are charged evenly by charge controllers.
You should look at wiring unlimited though.
section 3.3
I could be totally wrong but it doesnt seem like the SEER systems are all that much more efficient. The RV unit is 13500 BTU and pulls 1200w or so while running. A 12,000BTU SEER unit pulls about 1000w.