Looking for a schematic for Growatt MIN series of inverters for repair

[MajicDiver]

What is dry contact? Mine is off. Should it be on?

I asked Growatt a long time ago. Response was the MIN has no dry contact. It’s a bug in the app and inverter software they have never fixed apparently. Turning it off and on seems to have no impact.

 

[MajicDiver]

The countdown to grid connection takes a long time, is it possible to change?

The default is 300 seconds. You can change it under the grid code menu, I’m using 30 seconds

 

[MajicDiver]

sometimes L2 is red, sometimes both L1 and L2 red.

This in discussed somewhere in the manuals, but red means power going out, green means power coming in.

 

[MajicDiver]

Also, if I enable off grid function, the meter run blinks orange.

Orange means it’s not communicating with the inverter- if I disconnect the com cable it blinks orange. If I power off the inverter it blinks orange.

 

[1201]

Yes, it is an indicator of a problem with the inverter that it is outputting on the grid terminals. Anyway, I will do that but have to run out now. In the meantime, here are some other things and questions:

Sometimes the LED's on the smart meter are all green, sometimes L2 is red, sometimes both L1 and L2 red. I don't think the run LED was ever red. Also, if I enable off grid function, the meter run blinks orange.

Red is not good.means not connected properly. Blinking green means power on that leg. Solid green no power flowing. I forgot what orange is but it's in the manual. I'll check if I have a chance

What is dry contact? Mine is off. Should it be on?

Not used

Some options I can only seem to find on the shine phone app, but not shine tools app. Is that the way it is, or just that I haven't found the right page? Also, I've been making all these changes through the app. They seem to stick, but would using a computer better?

Correct. Shinephone has limited options.

The countdown to grid connection takes a long time, is it possible to change? It is a pain having to wait so long when making setting changes. Is there a setting for when the PV starts connecting? Mine seems to take 5 minutes or more

Yes. Change it in shinetools. I have mine set to 30 secs but you could make it even shorter .

.

Finally, I am getting battery wiring error messages again from the inverter. I thought I had that problem solved. I had contacted LG and they approved a return, but I was thinking I wouldn't have to return it, but now, I'm going to do it since all these issues may be a problem within the battery.

Battery

Damn! Sorry to hear this.

 

[1201]

CT leds

 

[MajicDiver]

Also, I've been making all these changes through the app. They seem to stick, but would using a computer better?

I’ve never noticed a difference. I prefer the app. For some settings I’ve noticed the website has better/different help comments, have used the website for at least a year.

 

[1201]

To confirm, the phase status leds do flash red when exporting

 

[MajicDiver]

CT ledsView attachment 197587

I guess it’s yellow, looks orange to me…….

 

[lapsmith]

This could be an indicator of a problem- I suggest you sketch the smart meter power circuit and upload. My smart meter is on a completely separate circuit and its own breaker in the main panel.

Here is my single line drawing which was just approved by my utility. It doesn't show the temporary wiring of how the smart meter is powered, but it is simply connected to the L1 and L2 grid terminals on the inverter. When the grid goes down, the meter should also go down, but because of the weird way my inverter is acting, it stays on. So to simulate an outage, I manually disconnect the smart meter.

 

[lapsmith]

To confirm, the phase status leds do flash red when exporting

Interesting. So flashing red is good thing Technically, I am not supposed to be exporting anything, but when the load is close to solar production, I can see on the app the net power hovers around zero, sometimes exporting 30 watts, sometimes importing.

I guess I have one leg in the house that is using more loads than the other since L2 is usually the one that flashes red.

Regarding the yellow/orange run LED, if that color means loss of comm, that may explain why enabling off grid function loses comm. If you are off grid, I guess it shuts off comm with the smart meter since it doesn't need it. Does that make sense?

 

[MajicDiver]

guess I have one leg in the house that is using more loads than the other since L2 is usually the one that flashes red.

Exactly, and just because one is blinking red and the other is blinking green means nothing as to wether you are net exporting or importing. The utility meter is measuring the net of both, one could be a lot larger than the other or they could be very close to the same. Put a clamp meter on each leg, it gave me a headache watching it in the beginning when I was trying to understand.

 

[MajicDiver]

Here is my single line drawing which was just approved by my utility. It doesn't show the temporary wiring of how the smart meter is powered, but it is simply connected to the L1 and L2 grid terminals on the inverter. When the grid goes down, the meter should also go down, but because of the weird way my inverter is acting, it stays on. So to simulate an outage, I manually disconnect the smart meter.


View attachment 197664

Thanks, I understand now.

 

[lapsmith]

CT ledsView attachment 197587

Thanks for posting!

 

[lapsmith]

Exactly, and just because one is blinking red and the other is blinking green means nothing as to wether you are net exporting or importing. The utility meter is measuring the net of both, one could be a lot larger than the other or they could be very close to the same. Put a clamp meter on each leg, it gave me a headache watching it in the beginning when I was trying to understand.

Right now, there is not enough access for a clamp on ammeter, but I am doing the permanent wiring now so there will be when done. Good suggestion.

 

[lapsmith]

See attached photo - with grid connected and batteries connected and batteries in “solar only backup” mode, the backup output is always live.

Separately, if I unplug the battery communication cable with or without PV the backup output goes dead.

So, that tells you that if they are not handling the battery communication to the LG battery correctly it could impact the backup output.

I think this is the most telling information, the fact that you have constant voltage on the backup terminals. I still can't figure out why I don't. Two things I noted. First is that on my inverter, there is a sticker that would indicate there is no connection where I have the backup loads connected. But the circuit board clearly has those terminals labeled backup. I'm assuming that sticker is wrong.

The other thing is, what do you have plugged into the comm port, the one just to the right of where I assume you have your smart meter connected. Is that for the ARO batteries?

Oops, one more thing, can you tell me how you have configured your time of use settings? I have them set per the latest version of the manual, and have tried almost all variations possible, with no luck.

 

[MajicDiver]

First is that on my inverter, there is a sticker that would indicate there is no connection where I have the backup loads connected.

I suspect you have a version 3 inverter, it has no backup out put I believe. It’s intended to be used with the SYN box and it shifts the grid output back and forth between grid tied and grid forming.
Send a photo of the nameplate with part number and ratings and I will hunt the document I was given last year with part numbers for each version.

The other thing is, what do you have plugged into the comm port,

That is for communication with Solar Assistant, @1201 clued me in how to do that.

Oops, one more thing, can you tell me how you have configured your time of use settings?

at this time I am using the override on my AC coupled inverter. Of course, I can’t use TOU on my grid forming inverter.

I will remind you that for the TOU to work you have to set the override to disable, kind of counter intuitive. See previous response further up where I provided screenshot.

Question: where did you buy your inverter? Did you know to ask for a specific version? The way you are using it you need the version 2.

 

[MajicDiver]

First is that on my inverter, there is a sticker that would indicate there is no connection where I have the backup loads connected.

It just occurred to me that this is your warranty replacement, check if it is different than the original I believe you said the other day you still have

 

[lapsmith]

I suspect you have a version 3 inverter, it has no backup out put I believe. It’s intended to be used with the SYN box and it shifts the grid output back and forth between grid tied and grid forming.

If that's the case, then I am screwed and have been chasing a dead horse! I'm pretty sure it is version 3 since when I called LG tech support, they said my inverter wasn't compatible with their battery. But when I told them it was a "Prime", they said that it was version 3 and is compatible. That's the first time ever heard of different versions. If you are right, and the inverter does not do what I want, I'm not sure how to proceed. I could ask Growatt for an earlier version, if they even have it, but then it wouldn't work with my battery. So I'd be screwed in either case. Sorry for the poor photos. The inverter is up against a side wall so hard to acess.

That is for communication with Solar Assistant, @1201 clued me in how to do that.

He mentioned it to me also. I will check it out once I get this mess figured out.

I will remind you that for the TOU to work you have to set the override to disable, kind of counter intuitive. See previous response further up where I provided screenshot.

I took another look at your screen shot and can't see where the override or disable is located. I would ask you to post a screen shot showing the time of use settings (where you set the week and times), but at this point,, it may be moot.

I bought it from Greentech, a local distributor. I bought from them because they gave me another $500 off the battery if I bought at the same time. I didn't ask for a specific version, other than I wanted TIGO in case I ever add RSD modules.

 

[lapsmith]

It just occurred to me that this is your warranty replacement, check if it is different than the original I believe you said the other day you still have

Correct. Here is a shot of the original unit. The specs look the same so is it a version 3 also?