DIY Busbar

[Mrdanielmh]

Im looking at doing a DIY busbar for my 280ah bank.

I cant seem to find c110 cooper anywhere in the UK! Would c101 be sufficient?

 

[Ampster]

I don't think there is much difference. I am using aluminum and either of those are more electrically conductive than aluminum.

 

[ghostwriter66]

Im looking at doing a DIY busbar for my 280ah bank.

I cant seem to find c110 cooper anywhere in the UK! Would c101 be sufficient?

Both C110 and C101 has a nominal conductivity of 100% and a high thermal conductivity .. the only real difference is one is 99.90% and the other is 99.97% -- unless you are doing something where microvolts are being used -- either will work fine -- also -- BOTH are a complete over-statement for battery connectors ... NOW I wouldn't be caught dead using aluminum simply because the reasons are too long to state here ... and truth be known -- taking a 3/4 in copper pipe and smashing it down is good enough for 99.9% of us ...

 

[Ampster]

NOW I wouldn't be caught dead using aluminum simply because the reasons are too long to state here

I probably know a few of them. I have the aluminum, and it is easier for me to work on my table saw and chop saw. I am going to sand off the oxide and use a liberal amount of no alox. The battery terminals on the cells I will be assembling are aluminum and I am interested in heat conductivity as well.

 

[Mrdanielmh]

Thank you beautiful people!!

 

[Haugen]

With the aluminum posts on the batteries, there is the opportunity for galvanic corrosion between the post and the copper bus bars. This can cause more resistance in the connections.

 

[Ampster]

Which is why I use noalox even if I did copper buss bars. I used to live much closer to the ocean and I always used it on panel buss bars.

 

[Mrdanielmh]

Interesting, i might just stick with the busbars that the battery csme with in that case!

 

[Haugen]

I generally put a connector lubricant on all outdoors electrical connections I deal with. Even on my vehicle, when I change a tail light, I treat the contacts.
I work in the avionics industry and this a continuous concern.
Even with this, I avoid dissimilar metal contact whenever possible.

 

[Haugen]

I wasn't familiar with Noalox and just read up on it. This is not a panacea that protects copper to aluminum junctions.
First of all, it introduces two additional metals, zinc and silicon. As the grease dries up, it will exacerbate the galvanic reaction over time. Granted the zinc will corrode away first, but the aluminum will be right behind it.
I would recommended switching to something like Zip-Chem's D-5026NS. It's $18 a can, but a short burst once or twice a year will protect your connections. Use it everywhere.

 

[ghostwriter66]

Interesting, i might just stick with the busbars that the battery csme with in that case!

I would ... OR you could do I like often do and just go by your local Australian Home store and get yourself a 5 foot piece of copper pipe ... and a 5 lb sledge hammer -- and make your own ....

 

[qcodec]

Some sellers have pure copper nickel plating busbar for EVE 280ah cell. Does it have an advantage over copper busbar?

 

[Craig]

Some sellers have pure copper nickel plating busbar for EVE 280ah cell. Does it have an advantage over copper busbar?

The busbar that came with the EVE cells quite frankly sucks. It will work but I recommend something larger.

 

[qcodec]

The busbar that came with the EVE cells quite frankly sucks. It will work but I recommend something larger.View attachment 16238

At least you have busbars. I received nothing. I'm not sure what is correct(or good?) busbar for the cells.

 

[Haugen]

At least you have busbars. I received nothing. I'm not sure what is correct(or good?) busbar for the cells.

I received the same pathetic bus bars with mine. So thin that the bolts they supplied bottomed out long before securing them.



The size of the bus bars will be determined by the intended current draw of your system. If you don't plan to draw more than 20A, then the little ones will probably work.
Flattening out some 1/2" copper pipe and cutting/drilling will do the trick. If you use a vice with padded jaws to flatten it, the results are more refined.
For the professional results, buy some bar stock and cut/drill.
If I can find 6mm aluminum bolts, im going to go with larger aluminum bus bars. This way, any galvanic corrosion will be visible at the terminals.

 

[Ampster]

If I can find 6mm aluminum bolts, im going to go with larger aluminum bus bars. This way, any galvanic corrosion will be visible at the terminals.

Unless you are in an exterior marine environment my guess is you will see no galvanic corosion of significance. I built one EV and two battery packs 1/2 mile from the beach and never saw any serious galvanic corrosion.
I am using studs and permatexing them in so I don't have to worry about content wear and tear on the threads. Also the studs allow various thickness buss bars and terminals without having to have an extensive inventory of bolt lengths or washers for spacing.

 

[qcodec]

I received the same pathetic bus bars with mine. So thin that the bolts they supplied bottomed out long before securing them.


View attachment 16269View attachment 16270
The size of the bus bars will be determined by the intended current draw of your system. If you don't plan to draw more than 20A, then the little ones will probably work.
Flattening out some 1/2" copper pipe and cutting/drilling will do the trick. If you use a vice with padded jaws to flatten it, the results are more refined.
For the professional results, buy some bar stock and cut/drill.
If I can find 6mm aluminum bolts, im going to go with larger aluminum bus bars. This way, any galvanic corrosion will be visible at the terminals.
View attachment 16271View attachment 16272

0.250in (6.35mm) thickness and 0.752in (20mm) wide copper busbar? Wow. It would be over spec for my small home(30a main circuit breaker), but I love your busbar.

 

[Fred S]

I would recommended switching to something like Zip-Chem's D-5026NS. It's $18 a can, but a short burst once or twice a year will protect your connections. Use it everywhere.

Dang it, something else to worry about . . .

 

[Ampster]

Dang it, something else to worry about . . .

I am not worried. I have enough noalox to last 10 years.

 

[Haugen]

Unless you are in an exterior marine environment my guess is you will see no galvanic corosion of significance. I built one EV and two battery packs 1/2 mile from the beach and never saw any serious galvanic corrosion.

Having spent many years in the Navy Avionics world, then living in Florida, corrosion is an ever present destroyer.
Galvanic corrosion in particular needs to be addressed in the design phase it needs only moisture in the air like humidity to come about.

I am using studs and permatexing them in so I don't have to worry about content wear and tear on the threads. Also the studs allow various thickness buss bars and terminals without having to have an extensive inventory of bolt lengths or washers for spacing.

If you think that "sealing" your battery posts eliminates the opportunity for galvanic corrosion, read about F16 jets falling out of the sky due to the design mating tin pins to gold sockets inside mil spec "sealed" connectors.

Aircraft corrosion examples