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You need to completely isolate the inverter(s) by disconnecting L, N, G from AC input and AC output. Then test for continuity. Also check for screws on boards as instructed by EG4 support.

This is what I see..

Output on my 6000 ex seems to be normal. Flicker issue appears be resolved. Switchover from SBU to SUB seems to be worse with a slower response. My TV and lights turns off when this occurs.

Setting 26 allows you to disable the N-G bonding.

The BN-Link WiFi smart switch on Amazon have been reliable for the last 2 years. Has some automations with the app too.

Looks like these guys are the only ones who have the 6000xp in stock again.

What firmware number are you on? I recently update to latest firmware from 63.05 to 63.11 and have never seen percentages for settings 19, 20, or 21 with EG4 Battery comm. With 63.11 the Battery Cutoff Voltage (setting 19) is fixed at 42V which is terribly low. Yes, Setting 20 won’t help...

I tried this with my two EG4-LL v2 batteries and the SOC and voltage was accurate, but the displayed and logged battery power was only for slave battery. I noticed the delay when running closed loop communication with EG4 6000EX and EG4LL v2 batteries. As soon as I switched SA battery setting...

Yes, I used these setting successfully for a few months.. you can also setup the automations with 2 conditions so it needs to satisfy both time and SOC parameters before it activates..

Under the inverter and battery setting (last tab) click “Advanced” and input your correct battery capacity (kWh).

I ordered one battery which was shipped by freight and arrived on a pallet. It wasn't too heavy for a single person to lift, but considering its price tag and having electronic components, I was ok with the shipping cost. Additionally, being out of state saved me tax and I was able to find a...

I had the eg4 6000ex and it did the same thing. Had the flickering and constant clicking on my computer UPS. The refrigerator’s main board was replaced 3 times during the time I used the inverter.

The inverter display shows that there is no battery connection. Either your battery connections are bad or the actual battery is faulty. What are you using for setting 14? Share pictures of your inverter and battery connections.

I agree. Get Solar Assistant. If relying on SmartESS or similar apps, then you’re missing out on a lot. The reliability of Solar Assistant should be enough reason to switch.

We're different. Not many people have the technical ability or are too scared to try putting a system together.

My panels are mounted flat, so I'm experiencing a significant increase each day.

How did you confirm grid charging is working? To me, it appears that it’s not charging. Also charger source set to solar only will prevent grid charging.

17A per MPPT

Work with @EG4_Jared and I’m sure you can find a solution.

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I tried to connect using a browser, but was unsuccessful as well.

You can google codes and try in your shopping cart, or sometimes they have a pop up to enter your email for a $50 off coupon..

I think there is a manual in the firmware download. I assume it’s the updated version consistent with latest firmware.

Best bang for the buck would be the 6000xp.

This is what I bought and it’s been working great. Orange Pi 3 LTS

I just got my system up and running so I want to make sure everything is working correctly. It’s nice to have remote monitoring and ability to make adjustments when I’m out of the house. Maybe when I’m satisfied with my system I’ll monitor it less, or not because it takes away the fun of DIY...

Try to make adjustments on the actual inverter first. I’ve noticed some setting wouldn’t apply through the app.

This video is will show you what to do.

Why didn’t you just get the EP Cube inverter and battery set? What’s the capacity of your battery? Use Setting 15 to be on all the time.