Here is mine before tidy it up. In a group 31 plastic box, which is now mounted to a camper. Plywood on bottom. Cells wrapped tightly with filament tape. I worry a bit about the buss bars, and not compressing the cells, but works for now. Ignore the lipo reading on display, it is only used...
Would love to find a stateside distribution channel for these 280 amp cells, maybe a complete kit with BMS. I’m new in this sandbox, is there a reliable stateside source for this sort of thing?
Thanks. I put the inverter on craigslist, hopefully will be able to recover a chunk of the cost. Tuition is never free. I will order a UL conforming one. Seems for 2k watts, I wont get away for less than $600 or so. Live and learn, right?
Coffee snob here. I usually have 60+ pounds of GREEN coffee in the house, roast my own a pound at a time.
I promise you, you will not be able to make a better cup of coffee than what $30 worth of plastic can do: https://aeropress.com/
So fire up a cheap propane burner and boil up a teapot!
I bought a "Accurate Tools" 3000 watt inverter on ebay for a little over $200. It of course had (unbeknownst to me such a problem even existed) the bonding issue. It was a perfectly good inverter otherwise, and I sold it for $170 on the list of craigs. I figure I paid $30 for 'tuition" to learn...
I predict a very short alternator life if you suck that much current out of it. You need to know rpm required for continuous output, and what continuous is. 50 amps from a dc to dc charger is likely to be 65 or so from alternator. My truck has a 220 amp alternator, and I only want to tap it for...
My four cells ordered on 25 May arrived yesterday. I’m out of town, but the pics of the boxes look great, they look like they just came from across town.
It may be too big. It is only a 200 amp bms. I just put it there as a catastrophic breaker. Going to be using a 3K inverter, but only 1800 watts worth of it, not going to try and pull full output on it. 1/0 wires that run about 5'.
I would think (and I am assuming here, could be completely wrong) that a cheap $79 dorm fridge would have a mechanical thermostat so binary on or off... Maybe I am wrong. Wondering if anyone operates in this mode...
So, interfacing with Amy, and asked if these were new grade A, and got this: “I am sure that it is brand new. About grade A, I used to firmly answer yes, but Steve on the forum told me that the charging rates of the batteries he bought were a little inconsistent. Although I really want to do...
I am looking to make a 12 volt battery for my camper. Ideally, it would look conventional as much as possible on the outside ( in battery box on camper tongue) so as not to attract unwanted attention. Charge via 400 watts of solar, ( or mains charger) run 12 volt loads, and a 2000 watt inverter.
But if one panel in a series gets shaded, won’t the diodes just let the current skip that panel? Is there a loss greater than that one panel in that situation?
All I was trying to do was plug the camper into the rv with the converter, a/c breakers pulled. THe GFCI said no dice, and found out then about having UL listed (or ETL, apparently same standards) inverters. Cheap ones are not going to work, they HAVE to have neutral/ ground bonded, and cheap...
Like these, for 280/ 304 ah cells, hopefully with the (silly) 6mm holes?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803329316717.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
I am absolutely concerned, I rolled the dice with them knowing that, especially with the video earlier in this thread where the gentleman received used dented cells. She did specifically state they were new, but backed off the grade A bit. A $500 gamble plus potential lost time. Ball is in her...