Recent content by filippomasoni

Those are very interesting and useful in some applications, but I'm afraid they are too slow and with a braking capacity at only 5000amp @ 32vdc not enough for lifepo4

I left for the day yesterday and when I came back they were all at 3.37V, so the BMS did it's thing. Gave it a bit more charge at 28V, but in less than 1h it was getting below 1A and the same cell was lower then the other, again left them to balance and this morning they are all a 3.38V. today...

I've had the cells in storage for the last 6 months, all disconnected in the box they came. Unfortunately the camper project got delayed quite a bit. I've connected them to the BMS to do a cycle since it's been 6 months, they were all stores at 3.29V and balanced when I connect everything...

How can we be sure these are proper fuses? It looks legit from the photo of the box... Did anyone test these? I'm all for saving money whenever possible, but I'm not sure it's enough of a saving to make it worth risking the device that will protect from a short.

Bussman or Eaton are just brands, so a 180LET has the exact specs from both brands? The 180LET from Farnell Italy has an extended order time, I found it available from rs-online branded Aeton, for 24 euro, but the data sheet doesn't have time-current graphs. If it's good I'll get a couple, so I...

Got it thanks. Every load will have it's breaker or fuse to protect wires, the main battery fuse is there to basically protect from a catastrophic short, that's why we need t-class or HRC fuses that can break tens of thousands of amps. So if it's oversized means it will only break in a short...

Thanks. That means the bigger the fuse, the less power wasted? The problem is that they get expensive, big and heavy as amps go up of course. Do you know which series is the most "efficient" in this aspect? LMT, LET, EET ?!

I'm interested to know more about this topic, t-class don't have much specs in general compared to the other HRC fuses from bussmann etc. I'm planning to get a LET 180A, which has a 21W stated power loss. Is that considered at the max continuous 180A? What power loss can I expect at 50% draw and...

Yes, I'll figure out a way to block the rotation with a Natel bracket once I have it mounted on the enclosure. I'll post an update

Here is my setup with the Blue Sea 1+2 switch (model 6007, link to website): This is the official wiring diagram. Let me know if you find anything wrong before I wire everything and test it with the battery. I plan to use this as a main battery switch since I experienced some sparks when...

I think I have one of those I bought for future use on the JK BMS, I'll give it a try. Can you tell us the wiring order you used? Still using the mini-USB provided from the tester side?

I've always had the PC with all of the power settings turned off and checked them as well, but still bad problems. Now that you mention the cable that could be the issue. I haven't though of that. Let me know how it goes if you try a different one. I agree, the software is rubbish, but I would...

I don't think so. The BMS terminals are soldered to the same strip on the PCB, so it's already bridged. I'm planning a very similar setup but I don't have a wide enough copper bar, so I'll probably do as OP. But to be honest I think using just one of the terminals is probably fine if the...

No, I got a partial refund from the seller and stopped using it since it was unreliable. I guess with this kind of more complex pieces of Chinese hardware quality control is an issues and it's all about luck.

That's great, thank you for the time you dedicate to create and update this free resource! Is the layout the same as the 1+2 switch?