I've gone well past "sensible" at this point and have plenty of power and want for nothing. I don't even know what I'd do with more power, but sort of like finding ways to add more HP to a car, I still feel the need to hot rod my house further. Is this normal, or are these signs of a problematic...
Go into the settings and set dump-to-ground-rod to true. The electricity will spill out into the ground rod just make sure it's deep cause otherwise it'll make the ground kinda static prone for a while. Obviously make sure you're not touching the ground rod or kinking the wire when you do it
This is my area of expertise. Without eg4 explaining their security practices, we don't know.
IMO it's better to detach from the cloud and monitor/manage locally, but I realize this isn't everyone's skill set.
Btw I would say the same about any cloud based control plane, especially in this...
I'm running off a critical loads subpanel with a 70a backfeed breaker. During periods of time with no solar or battery support, it means all those critical loads are limited to the 70a feed from the main panel, which could be a problem (especially if you want to charge the battery from the...
I'd update the firmware all the way to 1717.
As a general principle, I know there's an 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' mentality but especially during the teething phases of a new product, companies like luxpower and eg4 are finding and fixing lots of issues. Worth upgrading.
I use home assistant as well. It's ideal for me.
If you're not a data nerd and not paranoid about privacy or security then the eg4 monitoring portal is great.
If the eg4 site went down, and you needed to make changes, you'd have to go press buttons like a pilgrim to change settings
I had a similar question earlier. I am not an electrician but I believe you'd either need to wire the load side of the 18kpv to a 125a fused disconnect or 125a breaker with appropriate wire and then step down to something rated for 125a to the critical loads panel.
Yeah none of this feels normal. Sorry, it's probably soured you on the product which for many of us has been a good experience. If Signature Solar could send you an advanced replacement unit, swapping it wouldn't be that hard. Kind of annoying but a 1 for 1 swap of the inverter isn't the worst...
If the grid is down, though, then the subpanel critical load breaker being 70a would be well above the threshold to overcurrent protect the inverter output anyway.
And this is also true in a 'whole home backup' scenario that permits the 200a downstream load.. without grid support the inverter...
3/0 copper hots/neutrals with 4 or 6awg ground. No harm in going bigger.
Arguably you don't need to go larger than your service entrance wires, but ignoring those sorts of caveats that may or may not pass the muster of your AHJ, 3/0 copper will definitely work for 200a.
Can you share, to the level of precision you're comfortable with, how much money / profit we're talking about? Is it like $200 a month or something trivial?
So far I'm not seeing anything close to 91% efficiency - after 260kwh in, at a similar SOC from this starting point, i'm getting like 210kwh out. That's closer to 80% efficient.
I asked @EG4_Jarrett about this and I am wondering if the battery heaters are just running all the time because the...
Well, just continuing to monitor, my lifetime charge/discharge efficiency is right around 85% at this point. Not bad. Not amazing. Kind of what you'd expect, I suppose.
The few days where it dipped lower than that - I can't really explain still. Maybe ac charging is less efficient? Maybe the...
Ok well, for mechanical fastening I think 5 chase nipples with locknuts are going to be stronger than 4 m4 fasteners or whatever.
But still no idea how to ground the box itself. Maybe I'll just drill and scuff up the paint and bolt in a grounding lug?
If the LOAD wiring and subpanel bus support it, though, do I really need a subpanel breaker smaller than 200a? I get that it could trip the main 70a breaker if I draw more than 70a, but having a sub panel breaker at 70a would trip too. I guess one is more annoying than the other but it's not a...
You can also ignore the envoy, I think, and just literally wire them up to the sol-ark, for what it's worth. But the envoy allows you to change grid profiles and use the CTs etc.
OK, so we have the same experience. Cell temps are there, t_bat just says "2", and we're getting about 80% efficiency round trip. Are you comparing roughly the same states of charge in your screenshots?
Also - are you doing a lot of charging from the grid?
If an inverter meets the UL1741 spec as a power control system then the 120% backfeed rule can be circumvented as the inverter itself can be programmed to avoid overloading the bus of the main panel. I know the solark has this certification. Any expectations for the eg4?
So I've got it attached to the powerpro (not sure how the thumb screws work TBH, but whatever). The opposite plane has the knockouts for the 18kpv, but no way to run screws down for the 4 threaded nutserts on the conduit box. Did I just get an old 18kpv without the holes? No mention of drilling...
But permitting doesn't require me to notify the utility company, so I imagine NEM 1.0 stays in effect. I just figure it might be worth trying to have valid permits for the electrical work in the unlikely event I ever had an insurance claim etc
Per this diagram, they state that the critical loads subpanel breaker must be no bigger than 70 amps. I don't get why - as long as the critical loads subpanel is rated for 200a, and the wiring from the 18kpv to the critical loads subpanel can support 200a, won't it be fine?
My reasoning:
1) My...