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Made our first trip in the travel trailer with the finished battery/solar system. I'm really happy with how it turned out because I wanted to be able to dry-camp for 5 days straight, which is our practical limit for water and holding tanks anyway. Here's what I installed: 2x Chins 200Ah...

I'm in a somewhat similar situation as you, and I'm in the middle of building a similar system (2x 200w panels, 2x 200Ah lithium, inverter). Here are a few choices I made: 1. For me, the hard limiting factor to boondocking endurance isn't electrical, it's water. My trailer has 30 gallons of...

So I was working on the trailer last weekend, and sure enough -- I had it wired in backwards. I don't know how, since I thought I was careful to orient it correctly. But I reversed it and now it works perfectly.

I bought my VHB tape from McMaster-Carr for exactly that reason. Same with stainless steel hardware and u-strut (which they carry in assorted lengths, so I didn't need to cut it.)

I had the same issue -- inverter up front, shore power coming from far side to distro panel. I used 10/3 cable, and used a 30 amp plug set to connect the shore power to the new cable leading to the inverter. Then another length of 10/3 from inverter back to distro panel. Seems to be working...

I also have 2 200aH lithium batteries (different brand) and I do have an inverter. I went with 4/0 cable from batteries -> Lynx bus bar -> inverter. I did the calculations for the length and the maximum current load (which I'll probably never actually draw) and I think it said 2/0 was...

I agree. Your available equipment is way insufficient to do what you want to do, and your very small budget is nowhere near enough to pay for what you would need to make this work. I would bail out and find another place to live.

Yes that's a good idea. There is often some sun at the end of the campsite near the road, so a panel there would help and a flexible one would be lightweight and easy to store.

The use manual for the Renogy DC-DC charger says: "The DC-DC will not power on or operate until the D+ ignition cable is connected to the ignition circuit where it will detect a 12V source to operate ON."

We have a Norcold 12-volt 10 cubic foot model in our trailer and we love it. They have another one that is 15 cubic feet I think. https://norcold.com/product/polar-10dc-rv-compressor-refrigerator/

Any thoughts on whether it's better to have 2x 100A batteries, or a single 200A battery? Having one battery saves a couple of thick cables, but it's a lot easier to move two 30-lb batteries than one 60-lb battery.

Hi all, new member here. Just bought a travel trailer with factory-installed 80 watt solar panel and one lead acid battery. I'm thinking of installing the 400 watt/40 amp controller system with a 2000 watt inverter. Does anyone know if @Will Prowse has any videos specifically dealing with...

I'm looking for a 3000w inverter/charger/30A transfer switch to go into my travel trailer. I'm trying to keep the weight down, and almost all the inverters I can find are 50 lbs or more. The Victron Multiplus is 40 lbs. The only large lighter weight high frequency inverter I can find is the...

Well maybe I should reframe my expectations and only use the microwave while connected to shore power. That leaves the 12 volt refrigerator and 24 inch TV as the biggest loads, plus the usual LED lights and water pump etc. I'll do the calculations but I bet the Samlex 1212 and one SOK 100A...

I wanted a couple of 250-300 watt panels on my travel trailer to reduce mounting and wiring complexity. The ones that were available from SanTan were too big to fit, and then I found out that the shipping was going to be about $200 which would negate any savings. I ended up going with 2x 210...

Agreed, which I guess is why AM Solar uses VHB + screws on rubber roofs. They claim they have never had a panel detach, and they've probably done as many installs as anyone. So how do I determine where the aluminum roof crossmembers are? I've read that stud-finders don't work, and diagrams...

Thanks all of you for the advice. I used the same aluminum u-strut channel to mount my 200-watt panels. The strut is 13/16 high, and the panels are mounted to it with Z-brackets, so the panel ends up being almost 2 inches above the roof surface for good ventilation and easy access to the...

Yes. For us, the appeal would be to get some extra charge when moving from one campground to the next. I'm hoping that 3-4 hours of alternator plus some solar while driving would avoid the need to alternate between campgrounds with electric and without.

Thank you, this is really helpful. I think I'll go with aluminum u-strut secured with VHB + screws into roof struts. Then secure the panels to the struts with 4 brackets on each side. Wire rope from panel to . . . something . . . as a safety tether. If it comes off at least it'll hopefully...

I did on the first panel, but after 1-1/2 inches I never felt anything solid. I was scared to go deeper because I thought I would poke a hole in the interior ceiling.

We have a travel trailer with 2x 200aH LiFePo batteries. I know they're not supposed to be charged when they're below 32 degrees F. I would rather not remove them while the trailer is in outdoor storage over the winter (in Illinois). Is it sufficient to perhaps discharge them to 40-50% level...

Hello, I just installed a Xantrex XC 3000 inverter/charger in my travel trailer. I have 2 200ah lithium batteries in parallel, connected to a Victron Lynx Power In, then out to the inverter's DC inputs. Shore power connection to the Xantrex AC input; AC output to the WFCO AC distribution panel...

I think that was the panel/converter I had which I removed when I installed my inverter. I don't think it's lithium compatible. I would just install a battery disconnect switch so you can isolate your batteries from both incoming charge and outgoing loads over the winter. Before you...

Thanks for the reply. Agree on keeping the components close together; current battery is on the trailer tongue so I would put the new one inside. I like the efficiency of running the solar panels at 24 volts, so I'm thinking of adding another 80 watt panel in series, plus a pair of 100 watt...

Hey all, I'm thinking of building a portable folding solar panel to use when camping this summer. I'd like two panels of about 100 watts each for a total of about 200 watts. But that will probably weigh 35-40 lbs when complete with some sort of adjustable leg assembly etc. Then I thought, why...

Nate at www.explorist.life has a whole bunch of very basic videos covering very basic topics like these, including how to strip a wire, how to crimp a connector, etc. I'm pretty handy but I still found them extremely helpful.

I have the XC 3000 Pro. Yes, it will automatically sense and charge a battery that has been discharged to the point where its Battery Management System has put it into "sleep" mode to protect it. That happened once to me, and I just plugged the shore power into a household outlet and came back...

I think there's a misunderstanding on your/their nomenclature. "10/3" = 3 total conductors (one black/line, one white/neutral, one green/bare/ground). You make it sound like there are 3 load wires AND a ground. You just need X/3 to connect to the inverter AC input/output terminals. And I...

Why? After one season with lithium batteries I couldn't be happier. Smaller and lighter than lead-acid or AGM, and better performance too. I think they'll be cheaper in the long run too. What's not to like?

Planning a future installation in my travel trailer. Thinking 4x 100watt panels, 2x 100ah lithium batteries, 2000 watt inverter/charger. I'm confused about whether I need an auto transfer switch. If I'm plugged into 30A shore power, I wouldn't turn on the inverter. If I turn on the inverter...