Recent content by RollingThunder

No, I disconnected it so i could run the buck converter to that screw lug as a test this morning. As I said, everything has been working fine. That was never in question. I've been saying everything goes to the chassis. The problem is that the buck converter's instructions say NOT to. That is...

No, just disconnected from it's AC input and it's battery output/input. The white wire in the pic was disconnected, so at that point, yes. It's a bus bar welded to the frame, where all the lead acid batteries ground, as well as the wire from the DC panel. Two batteries, all to the bus bar...

Yes, that's what I tried this morning. I disconnected the converter from it's AC source to disable it. Then I disconnected the house batteries at the terminals, so it would then be safe to remove the cables from the DC fuse panel. It is to those points I ran the new converters 12v wires. Then I...

It's a magnetek 6345, here's a pic from the web that is exactly like mine: AC comes in from the top left. AC wires go from one of the circuit breakers down to the converter below. On the lower right, the DC wires come up to the upper right panel, on the back side, where you see the rivets right...

Yes, your first diagram is almost exactly like mine, but my rig is 30a, and the neg from the dc dist panel goes to the chassis, rather than directly to the neg on the battery. That's the only difference I can see. Your second diagram has a neg bus bar, mine does not.

The pos and neg wires come up from the ancient converter below, and onto the pos and neg of the DC fuse panel. Also on the DC fuse panel are a couple lugs, a pos and a neg, and from those lugs run heavier cables, one goes to the chassis, and the other to the positive of the house battery, after...

I sure hope there's some way to make this work other than running new grounds back from every light, pump, etc all over the rig.

Yep, that line is whole reason for this thread. I guess I'll try to contact the manufacturer, or post a question on amazon. @CamoGreg , it also says it can't charge the battery, so no battery on the 12v side. Which is fine in my case, I just want to run the loads.

See attached pic of the instructions. Yes, when I saw that I was pretty confused as well, it really threw a monkey wrench into the works. Maybe @CamoGreg is right.

So what to make of the instructions stating to not connect the ground to the chassis?

So, what do do with the buck converter's ground? It says in the instructions NOT to, but the 12v devices won't have a complete circuit without it. Is there some kind of isolator or something I can put between the buck converter's 12v ground and the chassis to make it ok? I'm wondering if it has...

Ok, I'll ground it. Here's the new converter, 60 amp 48-12v. I'll let the BMS handle the shutoff, where I raised the low voltage disconnect to 2.55, and lowered the hvd to 3.6. The new converter will be replacing the magnatek.

If you mean the 48v battery, I didn't think it was necessary. Should I? Yes, both the old engine and house batteries are grounded to the chassis.

Hi all, On my RV I have had my solar and 48v 280ah lifepo4 system with a Growatt running for a week now with no problems. The old 12v lead acid batteries for the engine and house are still in place. I plan to remove the old house battery, leaving only the engine battery. For 12 volt...

Thanks guys, copper it is!