Recent content by Rumbaar

I had to contact my WiFi adapter seller, who then contacted ePever who then created an account with a generic password. Then I was able to access, but it took months to get a response and then weeks to get an account.

As long as the device you're replacing the standalone UPS units for is rated as a UPS, then all should be fine. I have 5 UPS 1500va UPS units in my setup, but have the backup batteries feeding those UPS units and then that offers the dedicated hardware of the UPS and the power backup of...

I've tried support, from various sites that ePever redirect too, but can't seem to get a response for creationg a cloud account. Does anyone have an email address they've successfully used or alternate method to get a cloud account created?

Thanks for that, I'll take a look. Not sure of the big difference between 12v 200ah you're running and 48v 100ah I'm running. I've found the extrapolation from 12v to 48v can result in some wide differences. Great resouce, the spreadsheet and setting explainations + notes!

I think I've worded my question and/or thread wrong, as it seems none of the answers relate to the question I've asked regarding the 4 values supplied by the battery manafucturer in relation to the current USER settings of the charge controller. I'll see if I can think of another way to word it.

No, these are the settings that Voltx suggested in their manual for setting your (my) charge controller to. To ensure/avoid the batteries BMS is engaged and the controller is engaged before the BMS, thus protecting battery and BMS (the more costly of the hardware in the system).

I can do that, but in relation to the current settings and the 'Voltx' reconmend settings I'm not sure of all the equivilant changes I need to make or which ones lines up with the available options. As they appear to use slightly different terminology which look similar, but aren't. For...

I've gone ahead and setup a N-G inline with a RCD (safety switch) breaker I setup for the output line of the inverter and it's appears to have 'fixed' the AC plug error and I get 'all good' LED indicators. For all outputs. This is an AU model of a 240v inverter, to which most US based...

I understand basic DC and AC (240v) principals, but within the off-grid setup I have I'm having some questions on how I setup a 'safe' system. I've installed an array, solar charge controller, battery and inverter (240v) AU. I've also installed a grounding rod and have the solar charge...

It's a totally new PV/DC fuse box created just for this shed, and has only 3 connections on the ground busbar. The PV array, I've run a earth wire from each panel (3 panels) in series back to the busbar, I have the charge controller connected to the same busbar, I have (I think) the ground from...

Yeah, supposedly the ground is the output for the AC outputs and I ground via connecting to the ground/earth of that connection. Yeah, this is what I've done for my shed, off-grid, setup. I have a earthing rod in the ground and an earthing wire from that to the busbar in my shed fuse box...

I've purchased an inverter that doesn't appear to have any external manufacturer ground point, even though it has an AU plug and includes (from appearance) live, neutral and earth connections for an AC output. I've got a common ground in my fuse box, which I have my PV panels and charge...

I recently purchased this inverter KRXNY 3000W Pure Sine Inteverter, and I've found it doesn't appear to have any earthing point. I have setup earth for my off-grid setup and have earth to a common busbar that connects the panels and solar charger, but assumed the inverter would require an...

How did you achieve this? What method did you use? I'm trying via the app, still nothing.

Short ans Yes, that should just work as expected. As long as you wire it correctly at the GFCI outlet. I know in certain regions that work is still meant to be done by a qualified electrician. But effectively it's the same as plugging a powerboard with a long extension, or am I missing what...