Just placed an order for 1000 watts of Santana solar panels. My whole system is going to be relocated from my current fifth wheel camper to my "new to me" travel trailer in the next month or so. I think these panels are going to just about cover the available roof space on the 27' camper. I'm...
Ok, so the title is kind of confusing but my question is...
Can I connect the output of an older camper converter charger, 12v at 40 amps to the solar input of a PWM controller so I can charge a LiFePo4 with proper parameters?
The biggest load is the hydraulic pump for the slide. It can draw up to 30A at 12 in normal operation. It isn't scary at all. I know that if i decide to go the 48V route, it will add at least one component to my system. I would also put a small 12v battery in line with it to handle big inrush...
The link I shared had 15C and 20C options. I'm no electronics engineer. In the interest of keeping this circuit simple I was hoping to connect this online with the heating pad. Given the low wattage and low voltage, would this be possible/recommended?
Thanks guys. In all my pondering and searching, I completely forgot that I can set the parameters on the charge controller so that it would not reach the cutoff in the BMS. Discharge might be a different story but if I've depleted the battery, there probably isn't anything coming in on the pv...
Doesn't taste the same a plain ol' stick butter because they add oil to it. Plus, straight out of the fridge, it isn't all that spreadable and it must be refrigerated.
I'll tell you if you promise not to steal my idea. Lol. A friend of mine is tired of having hard butter in the morning after leaving it out overnight in her camper.
So, we want to add the heating pad to the bottom of a butter dish and power it by USB.
Would something like this work?
1PC 15C 20C 25C 30C 35C NC Normally Closed NO Normally Open Thermal Switch Temperature Sensor Switches Thermostat Control 5A 250V-15C,NO (Normally Open) https://a.co/d/imcqTHz
Believe it or not, the USB coffee warmer was the first thing we looked at. They are supposed to keep the coffee at 120 to 135°F. That's thru a ceramic mug. I'd imagine a butter dish would get a bit too warm. Maybe if we wanted to have melted butter for lobster. Lol
P.S. I sent her that diy...
Snoobler, I just read in another thread that you have the Powermax PM4 converter/charger. That is the same one I bought, months ago, but haven't installed yet. Do you leave yours in three stage mode for lifepo?
Apparently all the diagrams I looked at are third party. Still, since the Multiplus only has one AC input, it can only work with one leg of the panel, correct? From shore power, I would route one leg straight to the panel and the other leg thru the Multiplus. So, of not plugged in, one side of...
@sunshine_eggo , That is a lot to unpack. For clarification, I referenced the Multiplus saying that it was my original thought. I have decided that I no longer need the power assist feature. I also do not want or need an inverter/charger because it would require moving the shore power connection...
Yeah, internal wires. And for some reason I only saw the two each at first. I still don't think 4x10AWG is the same as 2AWG but it's closer.
Oh, and I am talking about 2AWG, not 2/0 AWG like one other responder assumed. I see some on here talking about using 4/0 cable for their 2kW inverters...
Awesome. Now I wish I hadn't already purchased everything for the 50A upgrade. Could have bought two soft starters with that money.
I think I will alter my parts list to include a Multiplus and eliminate the inverter. I will need to sell the 50A components to recoup some of the cost. Then I...
True but everything I've read says that 2 AWG is required. That's why I was questioning the smaller wires in the inverter.
The wires I bought were less than $50, a drop in the bucket compared to the rest of the system. My thread title is a tongue in cheek way of saying "why are the conductors...
Sorry smoothJoey, that was supposed to be a reply to JoeHam. The calculators and charts I referenced before buying the wires said that for 175A 12V and a 3' run, I needed 2 AWG. I used 175 because that is the max output of the BMS in my battery.
Very rarely and usually only if we try to turn it on right after plugging in. It's really weird. We always turn off any loads we can before turning off the breaker at the pole then we unplug. Reverse when we plug in after a move. Once every few moves or disconnects, the AC breaker trips as soon...
Ok. Thank you all for pointing out the issue. Here I thought I was getting something good with the automatic transfer switch built in.
Sounds like everything is working as designed, just not compatible. I'll check in the morning but I suspect that if I flip the breaker for the outlet circuit...
smoothJoey, I don't remember the exact chart now but I just clicked the link to bay marine in your first reply and entered my parameters. 2 AWG is at the bottom of the results but still <3% for voltage drop.
Am I reading the manual incorrectly? I read it as the inverter chassis ground lug being tied to the ground terminal of the inverter's AC output. Nothing about neutral.
The more I think and talk about using these two "systems" together, the more I think I should try to find actual specs for the panels. Of course, the Renogy panels have all the proper specs listed on their website. The cheap Paxcess panel doesn't list everything but has some specs.
Is it just...
This wins the internet. How the hell did i not find this myself? I checked the victron page and three suppliers. I'll go on a hunt.
P.S. Thank you for the info on the VA thing. I did not know that. It makes sense.
Thanks again. I knew I could count on this forum for good info.
EDIT: Of...