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The PM4 I have is the 100A model. I bought it before I knew anything about charge rates. The LFP I have coming is the 170AH power block from Big Batteries. The "manual" I got with the PM 4 says that the 4th mode is the single stage mode. It's very confusing in the way it talks about "modes" and...

I really wish I had the equipment to datalog at the post. I'm sure voltage is sagging when the compressor kicks on. I run a small can next to the bed at night and I can hear it slow down when the compressor kicks on. Just for clarification. Pretty much everything I have been talking about is...

I see 210 for single conductor 2AWG. The Anderson connector I'm using is only rated for 175 and the BMS should shut down at 175. To my mind, 2AWG is good enough. Am I reading/interpreting something incorrectly?

Crap. Just remembered that I plan to run the two Renogy panels in series. So that would be 24v in series with the 18v, making 42v going to the Renogy controller. I better look up the specs on that too. Ok, 100v max input. Should still be good, correct?

Well, after all this, I may be back to the Multiplus. Its cheaper and has much more functionality. Even though I may not need the added functionality, paying less to get it just makes sense.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vcRBnUvj4nTYYfC56 at one point in time, I had the back panel off of the inverter but I was focused on the DC side of it and didn't get a clear picture of the AC side. It looks like the green and white wires are isolated but I can not see the end of all of them. I...

Other than having to run two lengths of wire, no real reason that I can think of. That's pretty much why I'm asking.

I have a multimeter, used it to check continuity between neutral and ground on the camper as stated earlier. I'll add this check to my list for tomorrow. Thank you for the help.

When I was researching, I saw that AIMS had a good reputation in the marine industry. I don't know if they have changed hands or mfg since then but I still see mixed reviews. Never saw the neutral/ground bond issue in any research before now. I had this thing in a box for almost a year because I...

Except I have no intension of running the whole trailer off of the inverter. I only need to run the one circuit. I can do this with either an integrated ATS or a separate one. Doesn't sound like there is any reason for or against the internal ATS. Might as well get that inverter and save...

I am still waiting for my solar to arrive and just ordered a 170AH 12 Power Block from Big Batteries. This stuff will be going in my Fifth wheel camper. I just remembered that my camper batteries charge from the alternator while towing. Since I don't want to deal with adding another component to...

Ok, to try to salvage some use from this thread, can someone help me wrap my head around the efficiencies? The one with the built in ATS is 86-90% efficient. The third one is 95% efficient at 1/3 load and 90% efficient at full load. Assuming the 86 is the efficiency at full load and the 90 is...

I just ordered my rooftop solar setup and would also like to use my cheap folding panel as "expansion". Does the panel have to have its own charge controller or can I feed its output into the same charge controller as the rooftop panels? The rooftop setup will be two 12v/100W Renogy panels wired...

Yeah, I kinda wish I had been a little more knowledgeable about this stuff when I bought that thing. I've had it for a few months and so far have only used the USB ports. It's supposed to be "compatible" with all of the "solar generators" on the market but it just has a 4 way adapter on the end...

Yeah, we were running the camper on my job site generator, 5700 running watts. The AC would bog the generator down but it ran it. I'll have to get a proper clamp meter and do some testing. I spend my summers in central Iowa so if still like to get a 15k AC unit. Like you said, if the difference...

Adding a second shore power connection would require the same work as moving it. Breaker box is at the back and inverter is going in the front with the batteries. Or were you suggesting something different? Are you saying add a secondary input just for the MPII, like a small 30A or 20A port and...

Finally got my big battery power block today. Not sure how soon I will get it installed. I need to decide if it will be ok to have the converter/charger that came with the camper charge the battery when I have the generator running or if I should disable it until I get the new converter...

When I run the generator, it's to power other things, not necessarily to charge the battery. Usually 2-3 hours, maybe 4 once in a while. I don't think I have ever seen the voltage drop or even change. I think I will just disable it to be on the safe side. Once I get the PM4 installed, I'll set...

Thanks for the video. I watched that one and the one about mismatched single panels. The video you linked showed that the best option is two controllers. The second video showed that a 24v panel in series with a 12v panel was the better setup and only used one controller. I can add my folding...

I hope this section is for build threads of sorts. I have installed the solar charge controller with a circuit breaker between it and the battery. I only have a little portable panel connected to it right now but I hope to have the 2 100W panels mounted on the roof tomorrow and have them...

I've had my Renogy SCC installed for a few days now, running off of a small portable panel until I can get the two rooftop panels installed. Today is the first day that the monitor has shown the battery to be fully charged. Shouldn't it kick down to a float voltage or something? Monitor readings...

Like I said, I already own this panel and have for months. Hind sight I probably should have gotten a known brand but now I just want to know if it is safe to use.

Ok, so you may have been using these particular words to make the statement simpler. So, this question is not argumentative. The normal 50a power coming into an RV is actually two legs of 50 amps that are out of phase and sharing a neutral and common. L1=120V, 50A to ground... L2= 120v, 50A to...

My plan was to use an SAE port as well, already have the adapter coming and the ports sourced locally. I plan to have a in line fuse, 10A, but that was it. I'll probably go with a cheap PWM controller for this panel since it will be supplemental power anyway. Maybe I'll upgrade it to MPPT down...

Well, my Renogy kit came in today. I didn't have much sun left by the time I had a chance to "play" with it. I connected the SCC to my battery with the supplied 10mm wires and found an adapter that would connect the portable panel to something I could connect to the SCC. I triple checked...

Biggest load that will run for extended periods is my tv and blu-ray player. Otherwise short bursts charging laptops and cell phones or long runs of a small fan.

Thank you for the confirmation. I think I will go with the PWM for now. I just wanted to make sure it wouldn't "interfere" with the MPPT functionally. I'm probably giving up a few watts but would probably lose more running them all thru the same MPPT. I may just hook up a meter on a sunny day...

I'd have to say sorcerer's apprentice at best. I don't even have my current system installed yet and I'm already looking at expanding. Wills video comparing budget 100W panels had me looking into the HQST. Panels. Amazon has a pair of them for $164. These don't look like the Renogy clones...

See, now this sounds backwards to me. I would think you would chose the wire to handle max amps and then fuse to protect the wire.

I managed to get in on one of the products from one of Will's videos and now I'm not sure if I went too far. I got four 250W Santan Solar panels. That's 1000 watts total. I figured I'd connect them in 2S2P to keep the voltage under 100VDC that the charge controller is rated for. However, I...