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I have a DROK energy monitor that I used to test my AGM batteries in the past. I'll use it to test my Li setup when I get it built. It has a shunt as part of it. I either hook up a couple of truck floodlights or run a 1000w inverter with a load on it. The DROK will give me total Ah used and I...

I had some audio cable sitting around for the lighter gauges. Don't have anything as light as 12 or 10 in the system. The panel wiring might be that light but I got that made for me with connectors at a residential solar shop nearby

215A according to this chart that I use https://www.copper.org/applications/electrical/busbar/busbar_ampacities.html

No, you're right about the caps. It depends on the power supply design as to how it handles current draws far beyond it's rating. Easy to test, just short the lines from the power supply and see what happens

Yes, I tried an iOS app on my iPad but the renaming is just with the app. Would be nice to be able to edit the data in the BMS. I can switch between the batteries by unlinking in the Android app. When I get them setup in the trailer I'll be running a Pi but would be nice to have a good app

I've been charging with pretty much just the solar. A couple of times we were on hookups and before I left I used the onboard converter to top off the batteries. I'm not using the truck connection at all (fuse pulled). So far I haven't had any need for DC-DC charging

I have the same yellow one he shows in the video. It does make small ears on the lugs when compressed. I make sure the lug is vertical so the ears don't interfere when bolting a lug down. I'm in Canada and it was 70$C @ Princess Auto I did my 280Ah cells with cable rather than use the supplied...

That's what I'm doing with the 280's. I'm charging the 4s pack @ 10A using a 12v battery charger. I'll stop when the cells get close and then parallel them for the final balance. I'm seeing that the BMS is reporting the 1st cell (neg end of string) as 0.030mV higher than it actually is. At...

I'm just using a small buck converter mounted under the ESP32. It's the solder points between the socket strips. The 4pin cable plugs into the JBD BMS serial port

If you want to seal the panels you wouldn't want to put sealant on the flat side of the perimeter as you'd never get a single panel out. Cutting strips of Eternabond would waterproof the joint but allow you to cut it with a knife and lift a panel out if you needed to replace one

There must have been something connected to the DC wires when you attached the battery. Anything with reasonable size capacitors in it will have a sudden connection draw (spark). A large inverter will be a nice fat spark unless you pre-power it through a resistor

Likely that the new panels have a bit of an oily film on them from manufacturing. It looks like the older panels have water on them as well but without the film the water doesn't bead up. If you squeegeed on of each you probably find a similar amount of water on them. If you want them to look...

Just found this thread. The Overkill is the same as the JBD BMS. I'm running ESP32's on each JBD sending data via MQTT to an Influx DB on a Pi4/SSD with Grafana charting. There a couple of threads for the JBD stuff

I annealed some 1/2" hard copper water pipe and flattened it out. It flattens better annealed than not. It measured out to about 36sq mm which is between 2AWG (33.6) and 1AWG (42.2) wire. Three layers would be about 4/0 AWG

Do you have just one pack being monitored or multiple? I've started working on getting the s/w up and running now that my batteries are built. I also want to integrate the data I am pulling from my Rover CC and was running on a Pi when I had the AGMs installed.

I'm guessing 12VoltInstalls based on the three words in quotes.

That's a big system! My setup is 2x 4s 280Ah packs with a 3000w PSW inverter and 640w of panels on the roof of the fifth wheel trailer. I moved the Pi OS and apps to an SSD and removed the SD card. I had loaded it all up on a high endurance SD but in the end I figured easier to use an SSD. I've...

I have a few different dashboards that I use to monitor my system. On mobile displays it's hard to get things to fit in properly so I just use gauges that sit one under the other. For the main monitor panel I run a kiosk mode Pi display that cycles through dashboards. On my desktop I have large...

I had no information on what current the UART lines could supply so it was easy enough to add the buck which I had a bunch of.

I'm curious. Are you people connecting/disconnecting power to the inverter often? Is this only in a residential system? In the last three months I've only connected power to my 3kw inverter once when I first tied it into the system. I used a resistor and a couple of clip leads to pre-charge it...

I had a 2000w and when I switched to Li I replaced it with a 3000w. Mostly to get a direct connection inverter but the extra watts are helpful too. This is on a 50A fifth wheel. I pulled over 2000w a few times last winter Edit: I'm on 12v. If I was wanting to consistently run up near the 3000w...

This page has wire cross sectional area https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/wire-gauge-chart.html A pair of #2 is pretty close to 2/0. Three #3 is good too but I don't know if that is easy to find or not.

I haven't yet bothered with an enclosure but it's easy enough to build something to insulate for higher print temps when I need to

This is where I ordered mine from. I got them in two weeks to Ontario, Canada https://dgjbd.en.alibaba.com/?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.27b076e9GG17qf&tracelog=from_orderlist_company

The only way it doesn't end well is if I put a fuse between the two posts and then I have a blown fuse. The wires I used are only to test the BMS setup. They're light gauge wires pulled from wire harness bin. The black terminal block is two separate posts that are installed into a plastic base...

It looks like it's measuring all the draw for the trailer but none of the charge. The trailer battery ground looks like it's on the RH side of the shunt

I'm making another set of bars to space the bolts and small holes differently so I'll print in ABS when I redesign the fixture. It does have a much higher glass trans temp. The terminal posts are easy enough to swap out as well. Thanks