Assuming that 1700ah battery is at 48v then it'd cost a small fortune for 81.6kwh of LFP. I think server rack batteries run about 40c/kwh at best so you're looking at $35k. You can save money by going DIY with raw LFP cells bringing costs down to about 20c/kwh but what I'm saying is if it ain't...
I went with 4awg for my identical setup. 2awg would be better but I'll rarely be pulling more than 600w max through the inverter. Just make sure it's pure copper and not CCA.
I used 20A fuses, my panels max fuse is also 25A but their Isc is around 13. The protection for the combined current is from the central breaker which I've sized at 32a. I'm using 6mm cable so it should be safe.
What @sparrowhawk said, when designing your system assume tens of thousands of volts might pass through your grounding system. Minimise the damage between lightning hit point and the earth by reducing the parts between the two. If you have two earth rods it will probably pass from hit point to...
You fuse to protect your cables so with 2awg you'd be looking at something like a 150A fuse. I'd probably put a 125A DC breaker on it. You'll be limiting your inverter output to 1500W (at 12V) before your breaker flips but your battery can't supply more than 100A anyway so it'll be limited to...
Amp rating is for the charge side. A 30A MPPT means it can charge a 24V battery at 680W for example. You need to check what the input limits are though, the most important is the max VoC, you've already found that is going to limit you connecting these in series as that would be 69V, far too...
An MPPT SCC does not increase voltage from what is given by the solar array. Even in a 12V system if your solar panel only gives 10V it can never charge a 12V battery. The SCC can lower the voltage but afaik they do not increase the voltage.
I would use it but I went with a separate Giandel inverter and Epever SCC. Neither of which are supported. I am working on using ESPs to connect them to home assistant directly though.
It's not too difficult to build your own:
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/rate-my-battery-280ah-24v.54185/
With just 400w of solar you don't need 280ah cells, you'd be fine with 100ah ones which will save you a fair bit of cost and let you pick a smaller box.
I really am not trying to offend you with this but this shows your lack of knowledge about how this works. Listen to the people here, save yourself a lot of hassle and just connect in series to the mppt.
The datasheet you posted in the other thread shows Imp = 12.9A. You have to read and...
Knowing the UK there will be an extremely limited selection of vastly overpriced "approved" inverters that can be used to replace the OP's existing inverter in this situation.
I went with standalone components. I have separate SCC, inverter and charger. I can control the charger with a simple smart plug to charge when electricity is under a certain rate. I prefer the complete control I have over the system rather than relying on settings on an AiO that may or may not...
Beware UK regulations around feeding back to the grid. I have not checked as my setup is completely off grid but to feedback they might require that the entire system is professionally installed and uses 100% certified products, batteries and everything included. I am not sure about this but...
Epever is highly rated and quite a bit cheaper. Remote monitoring can be DIYed if necessary but shouldn't really be needed once everything is up and running.
We're on Octopus Agile so it changes every half hour, some days it maxes all day at 35p/kWh other days it can even go negative. Usually get a few hours through the day at <15p, few more at <25p. Payback with just this scalping would take... a while. I'm going to add panels though and get a...
I'm in a similar situation. Wanting to mount 6 415w panels on my shed roof. Current plan is to go pick up some 41mm steel channel strut and some spring nuts and bolts from the local electrical wholesaler. Going to work out a lot cheaper than the "proper" solar mounting systems.
When you reduce the voltage you need a thicker cable to cover such a distance. If you put the numbers into that calculator even for a 5% voltage drop you'd need 25mm2. Obviously not going to be practicable over such a distance. I'd recommend just finding the best spot you can near the house...
Charging at the moment with a 450w mean well charger. I've got that setup on a smart plug to charge when electricity rates are low. I'll be adding solar when I can afford it or find a cheap second hand deal. No rush during UK winter.
EDIT: And no I haven't capacity tested, I don't have any...
I use 4 AWG for a short run between battery and inverter. Fused to 125A, ideally it should be 2 AWG as @Mattb4 said but over a short distance it should be fine. 6 AWG is definitely a no in my books. I use this chart here...
Just be aware that an AIO will use more idle power than separate components. Some of them can be up to 60w, almost 1.5kwh over 24 hours, that might quickly drain your battery.
I went 24v too but got a Giandel 2kw inverter and a separate charger, a MeanWell 450w NPB. This also means I can...
Yea it seems that the UK code is saying definitely do not have a grounding rod in the shed that could be connected to the earth from the house. You can have a grounding rod but then you have to make sure not to connect the two earths but you can still use live and neutral from the house mains.
So long as there is capacity in the battery the extra power needed will come from there. Say the fan uses 100w but the panels only give 60w, that means 40w will come from the battery. Once the battery runs out then I'm not sure exactly what will happen. Possibly the AC voltage will lower or the...
I built a 280ah 24v battery out of eve cells and a jbd bms. If you don't fancy the idea of building one yourself then the server rack batteries look very nice.
Then you just need a battery charger and inverter. I bought a 450w meanwell charger, I should have gone larger, it can struggle to...
Impossible to know if over panelling would cause issues, it depends on the SCC. Victron can't take much excess current but others don't care. The risk is the controller burning up in the van which isn't worth it to me. Just connect two panels for now unless you want to get that epever one I...
People are suggesting to just use the mc4 wires and find a neat way to keep them hidden when not using them (I think) because the general rule of thumb is to avoid unnecessary connectors as each one is a potential point of failure. Overheating is in the vast majority of cases at a connection not...