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Take a photo of the datasheet on the back of your panels or link to them here so we can help you more easily instead of guessing at your panels output. I'd also suggest using the beginners corner for any future questions or reading up on basics for solar setup. There are a lot of helpful people...

You can put 4 panels on each roof face in series and connect each series string in parallel. I would ignore north facing panels as they won't produce much. Let's say that leaves you with 4 strings of 4 panels so 4s4p configuration. You will want to use a combiner box to combine the strings...

It's double sided taped quite strongly to the HDPE, I wanted to keep access to the terminal in case I needed it.

These are going on the roof of an RV I assume? Both at the same angle, I really don't understand why you don't just save a lot of hassle and connect in series. Also again, if you can return these panels and buy normal 400w ones do it. You've been ripped off, sorry.

Nothing in your quote from the manual states there is a ground /neutral bond. You're mistaking the bond from chassis screw to earth output. Neutral is not mentioned. You should still connect neutral to ground in a single location, preferably behind a gfci/rcd device.

Do you not have breakers or atleast a disconnect switch between your solar panels and charge controller? What if you need to turn it off during the day? Just pull out a live high voltage cable? That's crazy.

I was just typing out this exact suggestion.

Amazon is full of rubbish cheap products. Find a decent electrics company, failing that I've had better luck with ebay, often the companies selling there are "real" with their own stores too.

Ah that's £100 just to get him out, anything beyond a quick once over would be extra. Consulting from the start with certification at the end even if I did all the work would come to much more. For anything to be officially inspected it has to be checked by a licensed electrician, they can...

I tried to find the datasheet for your mppt model but failed. That's the problem with random amazon products sadly. Most mppts will only pull the current they need so can be safely over panelled. If in doubt just disconnect the third panel once the input starts to get near to being clipped...

Listen to what the people with real experience and knowledge are saying to you and weigh that against your lack of experience. Learn when given the opportunity to and disregard preconceived ideas that you have no evidence for.

HI, yes I have had it up and running for a couple of months now. Pity about the complete lack of sun at this time of year in the UK :D I chose not to use a contactor and instead just connect the neutral going in to the RCD directly to the earth. This should work as the ATS should not let the...

Unless you enjoy the idea of electrocuting your local linesman I would set it up as off grid. That's assuming it works at all. If you want to feedback to the grid then you'll likely need to get approval from your utility and the install checked over by a licensed electrician.

If I were you I would just see how you get on with your current mppt wired in parallel. Yes it will clip at 390w but you might be surprised at how little that matters with a 600w array laid flat in winter :)

FYI it takes years of lessons and apprenticing to become a qualified electrician in the UK, not a few hundred quid and some weeks of courses. I'll be installing a DIY solar install into a new shed but I wouldn't consider feeding back to the house without consulting an electrician.

Yes this is what an mppt charger does, converts high voltage PV into the correct voltage to charge your battery at. You don't need to restrict yourself to any particular panel voltage so long as the total series string voltage is over 16~V and the VoC is lower than 100V.

That's it's peak, average consumption when the GPU isn't in heavy use is around 200-250w. I'm looking at the Giandel 1.5kw inverter, they seem very efficient and 1.5kw is probably plenty for the office. I've heard that in general you'll get better efficiency with separate devices, so a separate...

Presumably it's taking DC directly from the EV and there will be an inverter in the charger. That's the only way they can do that as not every (many?) cars have an inbuilt AC inverter. I am lucky enough to have an MG4 that does but it's still a rare feature.

I'd double check your maths here. The op has 130ah @ 12v, changing to 48v means just 32.5ah, divided by 5 is 6.5A. Max charge maybe 10A with some fudging, that would indicate that the existing 2kw solar array is too much for these batteries. I'd also recommend returning the batteries if possible...

The table he posted does explain it. At 12.48v you are just under 14% SoC.

Yea that was my other possibility, just using the earth from the house. I don't like the idea of a lightning strike hitting the panels and having to pass through a lot of earth cable, buried cable and then back through the house circuit and to the mains ground connection. Can I have an earth...

Interesting thank you, I'll look for new lugs and replace the ones I have, I assumed pure copper would be the best conductors.

Can you connect to your BMS via uart? I use an esp8266 and ESPHome to send the data to my home assistant server but you can do something similar to log it elsewhere if you aren't running home assistant. https://github.com/syssi/esphome-jbd-bms

10kwh storage and 6kw inverter capability is enough to power a small home, I'm just wondering what you're planning to power with it in an RV?

Have you picked out an inverter yet or is this purely for 12v loads?

Save your expensive 4awg cable and buy some that is the right size for the controllers output.

2S2P arrangement would work best then. You could even add more but there's not much point unless you're really trying to max out the charge controller in winter which would be hard anyway.

Sorry I meant 50Ah at 12V. Missed the "h" and assumed 12V was implied from the calculation.

I can't believe I forgot about your amazing guides that I found quite a while ago @FilterGuy https://diysolarforum.com/resources/grounding-made-simpler-part-1-ac-houshold-grounding.157/ Just re-reading them now and they might well answer my questions. I also found this information which...

Thank you, the heat shrink colour is intentionally that way round as it indicates the negative side of the battery on the left going towards positive on the right.