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What do you guys think?

@Will Prowse can we get an updated recommendation on SCC’s on your website or new videos maybe considering Victrons price drop & the epever BN series is being discontinued.

Build the cheapest system possible to run a full size refrigerator. & give a recommendation on what brands/ kinds of full size fridges would be best to run solar on ie a linear/inverter fridge or a chest freezer/fridge with no defrost & thermostat. (If your in the market anyway for a fridge)

Ryobi & dewalt both have bidirectional usb-c PD chargers now I would like to see solar recharging of those since lots of us have batteries already.

A 10amp & 40amp are the same price what’s the downside of oversizing? I’m not actually protecting the wires then? I was thinking about using a 10amp inline fuse holder near the panels(to protect the wires) then using a 40amp breaker near the SCC used as a disconnect?

Dam I sent an email picture s-5 & 10 mins later they came back with this response. Customer service is on point “That is an exposed fastened 9" AG panel that our SolarFoot will work excellent on. It will sit in the pan of the panel and fasten into the decking or purlins from there any racking...

Can’t believe I missed this but at 8:30 will gives the settings ?‍♂️

https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/the-off-grid-king-power-anything.html

Thanks I wasn’t even looking at the VOC limit great point

https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/2000-watt-24v-solar-system.html

Is there an all in one 12V 2,000 watt unit or would I have to go up in voltage?

I’d consider building it on a hand truck YouTube if you haven’t seen it

Thanks this is the kind of recommendation I was looking for

A DIY 12v or 24v system that’s exactly 3,000wh so we can get 30% tax credit. The LiTime 12V 230Ah Plus is almost perfect to build it on but it’s too small (2944 WH) then it seems to jump to server rack battery

I’m looking for the best 24v 100ah with low temp cutoff & think I’m going to go with two 12v100ah powerurus wired in series wish they made a 24v version other option Im considering is two litime “smart” 12v 100ah batteries...

4 x 100 watt panels in series going to 40amp SCC I understand I don’t really need a fuse or breaker but I want a way to disconnect the panels from the SCC near the SCC. Was planning on using a two pole dc breaker but don’t understand how to size it? Also in the future I plan to add more panels...

https://fullbattery.com/collections/dc-hvac Anyone know about these? Window units look interesting!

Shows the adjustment in the video ^

Please this plus grounding

I wrote the 24v thing wrong I’m going to use four HSQ 100 watt panels with a 24v battery. My concern is if I have a switch to disconnect the battery & a dc breaker for the solar panels If they switch off the battery first before the solar panels doesn’t that have the potential to destroy the...

I’d personally rather it be heavier or less AH & way more cycles ?‍♂️ Also couldn’t they just offer both chemistries?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BQP924P/?coliid=I23ZK9S0HHRING&colid=2DTCG3WXE70C0&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it For solar panels ^ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07413JWLD/?coliid=I14B374NQZOPNE&colid=2DTCG3WXE70C0&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Positive side of battery terminal/wire ^ I would need both...

Anyone know if they added or plan to add this feature to the 40amp tracer4215BN ? Dang so if I want one I should snag one now?

Just DC lights a DC fan & a full size inverter refrigerator model # LRDCS2603S 562kwh per year usage per energy guide specs so 65 watts average per hour if my math is correct

Is this a real thing? I see people recommend this but always assumed it was one of those things people read & then just repeated if the freezers are that much more insulated why don’t they just make chest fridges with that much insulation or factory install a thermostat that can change from...

So changing from winter to summer time every year would be difficult?

I’m asking about the length needed