Ecoflow Wave Powered from 24v LifePo4 battery?

gds191 · Jun 25, 2022

Hi all,

I am considering purchasing the Ecoflow wave and I cannot seem to figure out if I will be able to hook it up to my existing 200AH 24V LifePo4 battery bank. I have asked Ecoflow and they either don't have trained staff or they are told to say no without really thinking through my question.

As you will see, the Wave can run off of a 1000Wh battery pack that connects via a small cable to a port on the unit. I also know that the Wave can be powered by the Ecoflow Delta Max with a cable called the "Extra Battery Cable". This goes into the DC output of the Delta Max, and right into the DC input for the Ecoflow Wave, powering the unit to the 400ish watts that it runs at.

My question is, can I simply purchase this extra battery cable and create something like a fused anderson powerpole connection to my 24V 200AH bank? The Delta prodduct support team is being very cagey about voltages of units - they only speak in watts. I can't seem to figure out if the Delta Max actually puts out 12v/24v/48v from it's "extra battery cable" port. I do know it says it can handle up to 3400 watts, at at that AWG, I would highly doubt it's 12V, but maybe it's 48V and the Wave won't run unless I change my bank configuration to be 48V.

I would really like to use this unit, but I have no need for one of their Delta products with my existing setup. If i ever do upgrade it'll just be to add another 1-2 Lifepo4 batteries to my existing setup.

P.S I'm not concerned about runtimes and power draw. I'll use a generator if needed, or I'll splurge and add some solar panels and 24V 200AH to my setup.

Thanks everyone for the input.

-Glen

JoeNewbie · Jul 6, 2022

Hobotech posted a video on this. Gotta view Tom's reviews with a bit of skepticism.....but it does help.

plloppii · Oct 20, 2022

I’m trying to do the same thing.

Someone has to find a hack for this,
I bet there’s a way to short out two of those 6 pins to trick the unit into thinking a legit eco flow battery is connected.

Anyone with the battery want to give it a shot and probe which pins have continuity?

plloppii · Oct 22, 2022

For anyone else who is trying to do this, I got the pin out from the inside of the PCB board today,

yellowpeter · Nov 6, 2022

hey @plloppii were you able to get this to work? I am in the process of making my own cable and would be neat to also get the data pins to work too.

plloppii · Nov 6, 2022

yellowpeter said:
hey @plloppii were you able to get this to work? I am in the process of making my own cable and would be neat to also get the data pins to work too.

View attachment 119307

I did not get to trying to reverse engineer the data pins,
but the first thing I was going to try was to apply 57v to the main terminals, then 3.3v to the wake pin to see if the display comes up.
If 3.3 doesnt work, slowly increase the voltage to 5 and see if it does anything. We might not need any CAN communication, maybe just the wake ping to get the display up.

yellowpeter · Nov 6, 2022

It might worth a try! Do you mean you are trying to "wake" the Wave? If you just connect the main terminals, the Wave wouldn't turn on?

Let me know how far you are able to make it to work!

plloppii · Nov 6, 2022

Check out this video,

He connects 57V but the unit does not turn on.
And so I opened up the unit and got the pin out from the PCB, seems like there is a Wake pin that you have to apply voltage to.

Al D. · Nov 25, 2022

plloppii said:
For anyone else who is trying to do this, I got the pin out from the inside of the PCB board today,
View attachment 117383

Any luck with this?

Can you post straight-on pictures of both sides of that board? Especially if that IC has visible markings.

xander87 · Dec 22, 2022

plloppii said:
I did not get to trying to reverse engineer the data pins,
but the first thing I was going to try was to apply 57v to the main terminals, then 3.3v to the wake pin to see if the display comes up.
If 3.3 doesnt work, slowly increase the voltage to 5 and see if it does anything. We might not need any CAN communication, maybe just the wake ping to get the display up.

I am interested in reverse engineering the data pins as well, did you have any luck with that?

plloppii · Jun 10, 2023

So.... Heres something exciting to show everyone here--
Ecoflow wave 1 running off of 48v -- 60v DC

Lmk if you are interested in a short write up,
I basically took the board out, shorted a relay out, and grounded a data pin to get the screen working, and that tricks the unit in "thinking" its plugged in the wall, but actually being powered by 48v DC.

moonjack · Jun 15, 2023

plloppii said:
So.... Heres something exciting to show everyone here--
Ecoflow wave 1 running off of 48v -- 60v DC

Lmk if you are interested in a short write up,
I basically took the board out, shorted a relay out, and grounded a data pin to get the screen working, and that tricks the unit in "thinking" its plugged in the wall, but actually being powered by 48v DC.

Looking for that write up! It may work for Wave 2.

mattburga84 · Jun 24, 2023

plloppii said:
So.... Heres something exciting to show everyone here--
Ecoflow wave 1 running off of 48v -- 60v DC

Lmk if you are interested in a short write up,
I basically took the board out, shorted a relay out, and grounded a data pin to get the screen working, and that tricks the unit in "thinking" its plugged in the wall, but actually being powered by 48v DC.

Im also interested in a write up.
This is exciting news. Thank you.

astremtan · Jun 26, 2023

looking forward to the write up. I purchased the unit without the battery thinking I could run it off a 12v or 24v power bank. Please share the details and I'll test them on my unit. Thanks

astremtan · Jun 28, 2023

by the way the connector is a AS150U type and you can buy it on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Amass-AS150U-Pigtails-Connector-Silicon/dp/B0BMPQL7Z1/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=AS150U&qid=1687960209&sr=8-4

or

https://www.amazon.com/Current-Connector-Anti-Spark-Waterproof-Parts%EF%BC%882pair%EF%BC%89/dp/B0BLYP7XSF/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=AS150U&qid=1687960209&sr=8-5

plloppii · Jul 14, 2023

Sorry for being late, I didn't realize that there was some interest here.

I actually decided to part ways with my unit. I'm trying to sell it now because it didn't provide enough BTUs for my application, which was cooling off my newly built Ford Transit camper.
But as for my reverse engineering efforts, I've included some pictures and explanations based on what I discovered.

Before delving in, I must clarify that I am not responsible for any damage or loss to your EcoFlow products resulting from this DIY hack. This approach most likely invalidates your warranty and could cause significant damage if you happen to create a short circuit.

Moving on, if you've seen the HoboTech video, you might have noticed that when he connects 48V to the terminals, a relay activates. However, the screen remains off. I tried this, and my initial reaction was that there must be a pin that wasn't triggering the screen to turn on. So I proceeded to rip my unit apart. I found the pin that needed to be pulled low on the display control circuitry located under the plastic piece on top of the unit.
Unfortunately, I only managed to capture a low-quality shot of it (I didn't take any better ones when I was disassembling it). It's the last pin of the connector, to which I jumped a wire across to GND.

I got super excited thinking that was it, but when I supply 48V to the XT60-like connector, the display powered up, but no sound from the compressor. At this point, I got a bit frustrated as I believed I needed to reverse-engineer the CAN bus pins to trick the unit into thinking a factory battery was connected. This was something I didn't have experience in and wasn't keen to try.

However, after a bit more probing, I traced the XT60-like connector to the actual XT60 connector on the circuitry board and found some relays adjacent to it.
When I powered the unit on with AC, I also examined the high-voltage side of these relays and observed approximately 57V. I concluded that these were the relays I needed to bypass. These were the normally closed (NC) relays that would open when the CANbus communications registered an OEM battery connected to the unit.

I researched these relays and their specifications, and considered connecting to the low-voltage side of the relay and activating it with a microcontroller. However, I wasn't sure which leg needed to be grounded and I feared causing damage to the upstream circuitry.

I went with the more ghetto approach of shorting the relay leg pins. After shorting these pins, I connected 48V to the factory DC input, and voila, both my screen and compressor powered up. I believe the DC input can vary between 48V and 57V, but I didn't perform any efficiency tests. I'm sure theres a optimal voltage for maximum efficiency.

I also repurposed the solar input wire, connecting it to the factory DC input on the board, allowing me to use a standard XT60 connector to supply 48V. I cant use solar input now, but was not planning to do so anyways.
The factory plug is some sort of proprietary system, which is quite inconvenient. It's not an AS150U (@astremtan), and there are six middle pins, not four.

In summary, here's how to get the unit to run off DC without their factory-supplied battery:

Disassemble your unit
Ground one of the pins on the display board
Remove the large board and turn it over. Locate the high-voltage side of the DC relays
Scrape off the epoxy coating and solder a 10g wire to short the relay pins
Reassemble the unit. Presto, you've got your unit running off your own battery bank.

One thing to note: Eco mode won't function correctly as it assumes it's connected to AC power. Thus, it will operate at full capacity until the desired temperature is achieved.

As I mentioned before, I abandoned my unit because it failed to cool my van in the 90-degree weather we have here in NY. If anyone finds the Wave 2 more effective, please let me know.

Although I'm unsure if this method will work with the Wave 2, I hope you find it somewhat useful.

EDIT: Chatgpt grammer

endless86 · Jul 15, 2023

plloppii said:
Sorry for being late, I didn't realize that there was some interest here.

I actually decided to part ways with my unit. I'm trying to sell it now because it didn't provide enough BTUs for my application, which was cooling off my newly built Ford Transit camper.
But as for my reverse engineering efforts, I've included some pictures and explanations based on what I discovered.

Before delving in, I must clarify that I am not responsible for any damage or loss to your EcoFlow products resulting from this DIY hack. This approach most likely invalidates your warranty and could cause significant damage if you happen to create a short circuit.

Moving on, if you've seen the HoboTech video, you might have noticed that when he connects 48V to the terminals, a relay activates. However, the screen remains off. I tried this, and my initial reaction was that there must be a pin that wasn't triggering the screen to turn on. So I proceeded to rip my unit apart. I found the pin that needed to be pulled low on the display control circuitry located under the plastic piece on top of the unit.
Unfortunately, I only managed to capture a low-quality shot of it (I didn't take any better ones when I was disassembling it). It's the last pin of the connector, to which I jumped a wire across to GND.

I got super excited thinking that was it, but when I supply 48V to the XT60-like connector, the display powered up, but no sound from the compressor. At this point, I got a bit frustrated as I believed I needed to reverse-engineer the CAN bus pins to trick the unit into thinking a factory battery was connected. This was something I didn't have experience in and wasn't keen to try.

However, after a bit more probing, I traced the XT60-like connector to the actual XT60 connector on the circuitry board and found some relays adjacent to it.
When I powered the unit on with AC, I also examined the high-voltage side of these relays and observed approximately 57V. I concluded that these were the relays I needed to bypass. These were the normally closed (NC) relays that would open when the CANbus communications registered an OEM battery connected to the unit.

I researched these relays and their specifications, and considered connecting to the low-voltage side of the relay and activating it with a microcontroller. However, I wasn't sure which leg needed to be grounded and I feared causing damage to the upstream circuitry.

I went with the more ghetto approach of shorting the relay leg pins. After shorting these pins, I connected 48V to the factory DC input, and voila, both my screen and compressor powered up. I believe the DC input can vary between 48V and 57V, but I didn't perform any efficiency tests. I'm sure theres a optimal voltage for maximum efficiency.

I also repurposed the solar input wire, connecting it to the factory DC input on the board, allowing me to use a standard XT60 connector to supply 48V. I cant use solar input now, but was not planning to do so anyways.
The factory plug is some sort of proprietary system, which is quite inconvenient. It's not an AS150U (@astremtan), and there are six middle pins, not four.

In summary, here's how to get the unit to run off DC without their factory-supplied battery:

Disassemble your unit

Ground one of the pins on the display board

Remove the large board and turn it over. Locate the high-voltage side of the DC relays

Scrape off the epoxy coating and solder a 10g wire to short the relay pins

Reassemble the unit. Presto, you've got your unit running off your own battery bank.

One thing to note: Eco mode won't function correctly as it assumes it's connected to AC power. Thus, it will operate at full capacity until the desired temperature is achieved.

As I mentioned before, I abandoned my unit because it failed to cool my van in the 90-degree weather we have here in NY. If anyone finds the Wave 2 more effective, please let me know.

Although I'm unsure if this method will work with the Wave 2, I hope you find it somewhat useful.

EDIT: Chatgpt grammer

Can you still connect the 110v and does it act the same?

plloppii · Jul 15, 2023

endless86 said:
Can you still connect the 110v and does it act the same?

Yes it does. I just wouldnt leave your DC power connected as you could damage your power supply because the high relay side gets 57V when AC is connected.

endless86 · Jul 15, 2023

plloppii said:
Yes it does. I just wouldnt leave your DC power connected as you could damage your power supply because the high relay side gets 57V when AC is connected.

Where did you ground the last pin? On the chassis or incoming negative lead? I'm going to pull apart my ecoflow wave this weekend. Bought it to cool my enclosed 48v solar trailer.

astremtan · Aug 5, 2023

plloppii said:
Sorry for being late, I didn't realize that there was some interest here.

I actually decided to part ways with my unit. I'm trying to sell it now because it didn't provide enough BTUs for my application, which was cooling off my newly built Ford Transit camper.
But as for my reverse engineering efforts, I've included some pictures and explanations based on what I discovered.

Before delving in, I must clarify that I am not responsible for any damage or loss to your EcoFlow products resulting from this DIY hack. This approach most likely invalidates your warranty and could cause significant damage if you happen to create a short circuit.

Moving on, if you've seen the HoboTech video, you might have noticed that when he connects 48V to the terminals, a relay activates. However, the screen remains off. I tried this, and my initial reaction was that there must be a pin that wasn't triggering the screen to turn on. So I proceeded to rip my unit apart. I found the pin that needed to be pulled low on the display control circuitry located under the plastic piece on top of the unit.
Unfortunately, I only managed to capture a low-quality shot of it (I didn't take any better ones when I was disassembling it). It's the last pin of the connector, to which I jumped a wire across to GND.

I got super excited thinking that was it, but when I supply 48V to the XT60-like connector, the display powered up, but no sound from the compressor. At this point, I got a bit frustrated as I believed I needed to reverse-engineer the CAN bus pins to trick the unit into thinking a factory battery was connected. This was something I didn't have experience in and wasn't keen to try.

However, after a bit more probing, I traced the XT60-like connector to the actual XT60 connector on the circuitry board and found some relays adjacent to it.
When I powered the unit on with AC, I also examined the high-voltage side of these relays and observed approximately 57V. I concluded that these were the relays I needed to bypass. These were the normally closed (NC) relays that would open when the CANbus communications registered an OEM battery connected to the unit.

I researched these relays and their specifications, and considered connecting to the low-voltage side of the relay and activating it with a microcontroller. However, I wasn't sure which leg needed to be grounded and I feared causing damage to the upstream circuitry.

I went with the more ghetto approach of shorting the relay leg pins. After shorting these pins, I connected 48V to the factory DC input, and voila, both my screen and compressor powered up. I believe the DC input can vary between 48V and 57V, but I didn't perform any efficiency tests. I'm sure theres a optimal voltage for maximum efficiency.

I also repurposed the solar input wire, connecting it to the factory DC input on the board, allowing me to use a standard XT60 connector to supply 48V. I cant use solar input now, but was not planning to do so anyways.
The factory plug is some sort of proprietary system, which is quite inconvenient. It's not an AS150U (@astremtan), and there are six middle pins, not four.

In summary, here's how to get the unit to run off DC without their factory-supplied battery:

Disassemble your unit

Ground one of the pins on the display board

Remove the large board and turn it over. Locate the high-voltage side of the DC relays

Scrape off the epoxy coating and solder a 10g wire to short the relay pins

Reassemble the unit. Presto, you've got your unit running off your own battery bank.

One thing to note: Eco mode won't function correctly as it assumes it's connected to AC power. Thus, it will operate at full capacity until the desired temperature is achieved.

As I mentioned before, I abandoned my unit because it failed to cool my van in the 90-degree weather we have here in NY. If anyone finds the Wave 2 more effective, please let me know.

Although I'm unsure if this method will work with the Wave 2, I hope you find it somewhat useful.

EDIT: Chatgpt grammer

Thanks for the writeup, first of all you are right and I was wrong about the connector, I guess it was late at night when I found it and didn't pay attention to the little pins. with that said, I also gave up on the ecoflow mainly for the same reason you mentioned that it doesn't cool enough, but also for the complications of hacking into it and having a separate 48-57v power bank. I will be going with a 12v ac unit like this one https://www.amazon.com/conditioners...mzn1.fos.ac2169a1-b668-44b9-8bd0-5ec63b24bcb5

the only downside is that it's only AC no heat.

Mike Mas · May 15, 2024

Hey guys great thread - While it would be great to run the Wave on external battery on DC, it's not worth destroying an expensive AC unit. The Wave 1 & 2 AC system uses their own logic to separate power from its built in inverter, AC power supply, solar input, battery charger and its own battery. All you're going to do is dump the unit, in fact the guy who bailed out on his Wave more than likely screwed his up.

Lithium is too cheap to butcher a perfect Wave 1 or 2. The Wave consumes vary little power, just get yourself a small inverter and battery and just plug it in to 110 v and keep your Wave happy. The power loss of inverting to and from AC is nominal. For the most part if you need to run this 24/7 you bought the wrong unit, get yourself a Inverter wall shaker!

I included a link for my Wave Li-PAC system installed in an Airstream trailer - Enjoy

Mike
www.rvvolt.com

Wandering_Soul · May 17, 2024

Hi, Has anyone been able to make a Wave 2 work off a DC source yet? I'm about to give this a try on mine so i'm eager to hear about anyone's progress.

Mike, your comment isn't really suitable here and you should really remove it. This is a DIY forum, not a: "let's not DIY" forum.

Mike Mas · May 17, 2024

Wondering Thanks for your reply - I'm not following at all why I should remove the post. The Install was and is a DIY project. I designed the whole system and the integration to the Airstream RV to include a 2nd 110 power source for the Wave.

Regarding your question on the on the Wave 2 operating on an external DC source, its easily accomplished if your technical and want to change systems logic. What makes it difficult to just wire in - is the fact there is a lot going on regarding the Wave 2's power. The pump is powered in numerous ways, 110 v inverter, onboard battery, direct power / Solar, if you want a pure DC powered pump you have to eliminate this multi system.

Not sure many are aware, but when the Wave 2 is hooked to a battery an plugged in to 110v, the wave "only runs on its battery" AC power only charges the battery. If you watch the batt % you'll see it discharges the battery to 98% then charges it back to 100%, so your using 2-3% of your battery cycle life, any time the battery is hooked to the AC unit even if its plugged in to 110v. You'll have to unhook the batt cable to enable the AC power inverter to run the compressor.

A lot of guys are also wondering why they hear the fan running when the AC is off. The reason this occurs is the evaporator fan runs at a very slow speed with the AC off to cool it's onboard battery charger. This is only active to cool the charger, it will stop when 3-5 minutes after the unit is off and not charging. If you put your hand on the front left panel half way down (side with plug) and you'll feel the heat from the charger on the cover.

In conclusion, all this ripping the units apart and beginner wiring is not in the best interest of your Wave 2 unit. Aside from voiding your warranty, there's a real good chance you'll screw the unit up and we all know just how horrifying Ecoflow service and parts are to get.

Best bet is to leave the Wave alone, lithium is cheap get an inverter and run it on 110 v like its designed for!

Regards - Mike

Wandering_Soul · Jun 5, 2024

I'm about to rip open a Wave 2. Stay tuned guys.

Wandering_Soul · Jun 5, 2024

I had an hour to spare today so I took the Wave 2 apart. It's a bit of a beast to open so I would say that a set of spudger tools are essential. I had some to hand, a cheap set that I got off amazon. There's no tear down photos online so hopefully the ones that I have will help others and probably speed up their teardown.

Some notes during disassembly:

My unit has a hard wired power cable, mine is a european wave 2, perhaps in the US it still has just a three pronged socket (we call them kettle leads here). When I was able to open the box I realised it's actually a three prong socket with a custom cover that concealed the socket. MAYBE this cover was added to the power lead because of voltages that are backfed from the inverter so while I'll be removing mine because I dont want it, be careful to make sure there's no voltages on the socket when it's in use.

Take all the grills off, remove all the screws and start from the back, the top unit is first to come off, it pushes away from you when you are at the rear of the device. Then the sides, they push up, but with a lot of hardship. It probably took me 40 minutes to get into it. You'll want a lot of cups/containers for the different types of screws from different areas.

The wave 2 looks like a significant redesign compared to the 1, as seen in previous photos.

The relays are all contained in the high voltage section, which I think they weren't in the wave 1. There's a few of them so I have to work through how to short them, and also get the display to work.

I think the best way to approach solving the issue is still probably to get an oscilloscope on an existing battery and create an arduino with canbus signals emulate it and connect it to the custom XT150 port (or whatever it is). Then you would also have the benefit of Eco mode, which the OP mentions was removed when the Wave 1 presumed it was connected to a wall supply.

I only had enough time to disassemble it today so I'm hoping to get back to it shortly. If anyone wants to work with me on this please let me know, I might reach the limit of my knowledge shortly. If anyone wants to send me a device which provides a signal with ecoflow canbus let me know, I will purchase an oscilloscope and try to emulate the signals and then send the device back to you. Anyway, here's some photos.

Ecoflow Wave Powered from 24v LifePo4 battery?

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