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Chargeverter plug adapter

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Bahy

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I have the new chargeverter (the black one) and want to use the 120V as I do not have a generator. The chargeverter comes with a 4-prong L14-30P plug. The manual shows other 120v plug configurations but non fit a normal home 3-prong 120V receptacle. My question is, which route should I take?

1- use a 5-15P to L14-30R adapter ?

2- or change the current plug to L5-30P (an pin out option mentioned in the manual) then use a 5-15P to L5-30R adapter to plug the device to the wall receptacle?

What confuses me that the 5-15P to L14-30R adapters in the market have hot 1 and hot 2 bridged. Not sure if bridged mean connected together and thus wont work. Manual shows both hots separated in the 3 prong L5-30P.

Appreciate your input.
 
1 - absolutely not unless you customize it and wire it properly.

2 - You need to wire it as indicated.

If you mean residential "Wall receptacles," they are only rated for 15A, sometimes 20A.

You will have to limit the output of the unit to ensure you do not exceed the AC input. Likely need to limit it to about 25A output on a 15A "wall receptacle."

EDIT: Doh... missed the 5-15P.
 
Bahy said:
I have the new chargeverter (the black one) and want to use the 120V as I do not have a generator. The chargeverter comes with a 4-prong L14-30P plug. The manual shows other 120v plug configurations but non fit a normal home 3-prong 120V receptacle. My question is, which route should I take?

1- use a 5-15P to L14-30R adapter ?

2- or change the current plug to L5-30P (an pin out option mentioned in the manual) then use a 5-15P to L5-30R adapter to plug the device to the wall receptacle?

What confuses me that the 5-15P to L14-30R adapters in the market have hot 1 and hot 2 bridged. Not sure if bridged mean connected together and thus wont work. Manual shows both hots separated in the 3 prong L5-30P.

Appreciate your input.
Click to expand...
Yeah, CV uses hot and hot, which can be connected to 120 or 240 in any arrangement. Most L14-30 has hot, hot, and neutral, so there's room for confusion.

As Eggo pointed out, you don't want to try to run that off a normal 120V (15 or 20A) outlet without drastically reducing the power, and then you have a 1200W charger instead of a 5KW one. Can you put in a proper 240V outlet, or change the cord for a dryer plug or something?
 
Yeah, I had to rewrite mine and only run it at 12.5 amps charge rating to our batteries because the AC outlets of our Honda eu2000i AC are only constant rated for 13.5 amps.

EDIT:
And I forgot to state that with the Chargeverter V1
 
Thanks for all your input. I will try to figure out how to reach a 240V outlet to avoid all the shortcomings of 120V.
 
Best to stick with 240v, to get full use of it.
But if you must go with 120v, you'll have to limit the charging to 25a.
When it's fed with 120v, it automatically reduces the output to 50a. But that is still too much for a 15a AC circuit.
And for 120v operation, you will have to replace the male cord end. As there's no adapter available on the market for this configuration change. (Because it wouldn't be code compliant)
 
Thanks for the helpful. So the pictured adapter won't work, right ?
timselectric said:
Best to stick with 240v, to get full use of it.
But if you must go with 120v, you'll have to limit the charging to 25a.
When it's fed with 120v, it automatically reduces the output to 50a. But that is still too much for a 15a AC circuit.
And for 120v operation, you will have to replace the male cord end. As there's no adapter available on the market for this configuration change. (Because it wouldn't be code compliant)
Click to expand...
IMG_3044.jpeg
 
EG4_Eric said:
If you do decide to rewire the plug, here is how you would rewire it. Also, I'll attach the link to the manual in case you want to download it. This would be located on page 6 & 7.

Click to expand...
You might want to correct the diagram.
For 208v, it says (phase).
Which isn't correct.
It takes 2 Lines for a phase.
L1 and L2 are the same phase.
It should say the same thing as 240v does.

For clarification
Phase A = L3 and L1
Phase B = L1 and L2
Phase C = L2 and L3
 
EG4_Eric said:
If you do decide to rewire the plug, here is how you would rewire it. Also, I'll attach the link to the manual in case you want to download it. This would be located on page 6 & 7.

Click to expand...
Thanks for lthe layout. I am wondering why the manual does not mention the 120V 3-prong household 5-15 male in the chart of pin out plugs. Is it a problem if I simply replace the CV plug with a 5-15P and wire it according to the table in the chart ?
 
Bahy said:
Thanks for lthe layout. I am wondering why the manual does not mention the 120V 3-prong household 5-15 male in the chart of pin out plugs. Is it a problem if I simply replace the CV plug with a 5-15P and wire it according to the table in the chart ?
Click to expand...
The major problem is that without changing the settings, it will draw 26 or 28 A from your 15 amp circuit.
 
wpns said:
The major problem is that without changing the settings, it will draw 26 or 28 A from your 15 amp circuit.
Click to expand...
That sounds like a you (user) problem, not a them problem, though.

I'm running mine off of a standard 5-15P connector to my generator and it seemed obvious to me that I wouldn't be able to to run 4,000W through it, so I changed the battery charging amperage to below it maximum rated outlet amperage.
 
Andrewr05 said:
That sounds like a you (user) problem, not a them problem, though.

I'm running mine off of a standard 5-15P connector to my generator and it seemed obvious to me that I wouldn't be able to to run 4,000W through it, so I changed the battery charging amperage to below it maximum rated outlet amperage.
Click to expand...
I don’t think that means what you think it means. Please tell me you didn’t really change the battery charging (48 V) current to 15 A.
 
wpns said:
I don’t think that means what you think it means. Please tell me you didn’t really change the battery charging (48 V) current to 15 A.
Click to expand...
Due to inverter inefficiencies, cord length and other factors it ends up being pretty close for me.

I understand the setting is battery charge amperage and voltage, that they are directly correlated with how many Watts the Chargeverter will pull from the generator.

My Honda eu2000i will not charge with anything past 12.5A.
Or it will, but the surge of start up limits it to no more than 12.5. I can manually go up to about 17A @ 57V before it bogs down the generator.

So because this is a shared area and I want people to be able to just pour gas in the generator, start it up and just expect the batteries to charge and not need to know how to fiddle fuck around with charger setting my effective limit is 12.5.

My outlet amperage maximum is stated as 13.3 Amps.
 
I’m looking for an adapter to work with an existing 30a/220v circuit. Would this work for the Chargeverter?

IMG_0576.png
 

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wpns said:
No reason why not, they don’t show a wiring diagram but there’s only one logical way that can be wired.
Click to expand...
As you say L1 has to go to L1, and L2 to L2, so that should work.
The ground pin on the 6-30 should go to the ground pin on the L14-30.

There is a small chance they wired it to Neutral as well, but it won’t matter for the Chargeverter, as N is not connected anyway.
 
ricardocello said:
As you say L1 has to go to L1, and L2 to L2, so that should work.
The ground pin on the 6-30 should go to the ground pin on the L14-30.

There is a small chance they wired it to Neutral as well, but it won’t matter for the Chargeverter, as N is not connected anyway.
Click to expand...
I’m trying to find an adapter for my Honda eu3000 which has an L5-30 plug to the L14-30 on the ChargeVerter.

They all seem to connect Generator Hot to both Chargeverter Hots and Generator Neutral to ChargeVerter Neutral (which is unused/not connected). Which I guess makes sense for RVs?

I want Generator Hot to one of the CV Hot and Generator Neutral to the other CV Hot, but I suspect I’m going to have to make my own.
 
wpns said:
I’m trying to find an adapter for my Honda eu3000 which has an L5-30 plug to the L14-30 on the ChargeVerter.

They all seem to connect Generator Hot to both Chargeverter Hots and Generator Neutral to ChargeVerter Neutral (which is unused/not connected). Which I guess makes sense for RVs?

I want Generator Hot to one of the CV Hot and Generator Neutral to the other CV Hot, but I suspect I’m going to have to make my own.
Click to expand...
The eu3000 is 120V 23.3A max on the L5-30.
You will be limited to about 2500W DC on the chargeverter output, and that is running the generator at max capacity which isn't good.
However, it is a Honda.

There are no adaptors made to do dangerous things like wiring a neutral to a hot, because they would be sued out of existence.

Do you plan to use the Chargeverter only with this generator?
If so, I would remove the L14-30P on the Chargeverter cable, and wire up an L5-30P instead.
Then you can use standard L5-30 extension cables.
 
wpns said:
I’m trying to find an adapter for my Honda eu3000 which has an L5-30 plug to the L14-30 on the ChargeVerter.

They all seem to connect Generator Hot to both Chargeverter Hots and Generator Neutral to ChargeVerter Neutral (which is unused/not connected). Which I guess makes sense for RVs?

I want Generator Hot to one of the CV Hot and Generator Neutral to the other CV Hot, but I suspect I’m going to have to make my own.
Click to expand...
You won't find an adapter to do that. It would be illegal and dangerous.
I also wouldn't recommend making one, for the same reasons.
If you do decide to make one anyway. Please make sure that you limit access to it. So that nobody tries to use it for something else.
 
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