diy solar

diy solar

Cheap mini solar field build

So far a clean and trouble-free install of the EG4 18kpv without all the traditional associated...stuff.
The back of the wall has a bit more going on. Pic's to come for that soon.
Schlepping this f'n wire through is no joke.
The image on the lcd screen looks absolutely nothing like me. Is this me in 40 years? Will there be another 40 years. I dont think so.

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Really like the through the rear conduit, clean look! Are you concerned about the bend up?
 
Really like the through the rear conduit, clean look! Are you concerned about the bend up?
Thank you.
I'm more concerned about my hands.:ROFLMAO:
Some threads were damaged on a plastic 90* on the back side of this wall, so the wire in this pic is coming out. This one was more difficult that it looks. Then, we missed installing the cement board behind the inverter which was just sitting there, right against the adjacent wall.
 
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Fused disconnect on left, meter in the middle & manual transfer switch on the right. Manual transfer switch and three 12" nipples replace wire trays and excessive conduit.
Batteries and mini-field up next.

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Super-cheap solar field in progress. It's at 45.4ish *, perfect for winter. Adjusting down to 30.4* shouldn't be an issue but down to 14* for the summer will probably be a problem as the posts might cast shadows over the panels. Canadian Solar 400w. These panels are supposed to be a bit more lenient concerning shade, and it certainly wouldn't be much, so I'm willing to give it a go. Worst case I have 45* winter & 30* spring/fall settings and suffer a loss in summer or I scrap the posts and build using unistrut or equivalent but either way, retain the mini solar field in it's current configuration.

I grind off the tabs, hit those areas with some rustoleum spray paint and get them straight and lined up with one another. Most wind comes from the south, and with 75% or more of the panels weight holding down the front end, as well as the zinc coated hardware locking things down up top, I don't these things are going anywhere. They should perform better down here as opposed to the roof.

Got a slight dip between 2 posts when looking straight down the line. I'll work out minor kinks when it's all done. Each panel is level within .1* and each is at 45.4* + or - .1*. Both rows of solar mini field are facing true, solar south.
5 down, 25 to go. So far, I'm a big fan of Signature Solar.

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Panel #2 from left is filthy.
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This might be a good reference for those looking to install this rack.
Looks like Sig. Solar / EG4 continues to improve on the battery tower. Still some minor issues from my experience, but it's nice.
There's 4 bolts on each side for each battery and they all line up well.
The wheels are beefy, but I didn't use them.
The white wire trays cannot contain the wires without help from Gorilla Tape. You can install the main 4 cables to lay in such a way that you'd think they won't be in the way, but the cables at all connections on the bus bar prevent the top from snapping into place. This part of the system is unfinished for now.
The battery-to-inverter cable is too short, even shorter than the battery cables.

I drilled & installed a grommet for the wires for the communication hub, cut through the back of the unit to run the wires to the inverter in the garage and shared a ground for the hub at the door and placed my own for the ground that needs to go outside to the grounding rod.

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The afterthought that is my 2 IMO boxes. If only I could concentrate just on this solar project, It would be done.

Each panel measured a hair under 35 volts and at the disconnect switches each string came in around 350 volts, even with 1/2 of one string in the shade.

The meter, mini field and battery rack all grounded to the original rod.

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Buttoning up this freakin mini solar field and waiting for some feedback from Sig Solar on commissioning which is a bit slow to come these days, but I am a huge pain in the ass, so...
I'd say this was a bit more work than just buying and assembling an array or 2, but it left a few grand in my pocket, is low profile and was really easy to clean. Automotive wire loom will supposedly keep vermin from chewing on my 10awg. I don't exactly have a critter issue, hence the deer poly fence (steel critter fence at the bottom) which surrounds a bit over 1 1/2 acres of my prop & the driveway gates make for a 100% enclosed space, but I do still get squirrels & birds in here. The fence & gates was initially protection for ornamental plants, fruit trees & veggies.


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Waiting on some automotive wire loom to wrap this mini field up. Apparently, rodents like to chew the cable insulation, not because of it's soy content but it's texture. Who knows, and I don't think I'll have issues but just in case. It was inexpensive & easy too install.
I set each panel to a fixed 32*. I did not anticipate shading of these posts, and they do cast a lot of shade when the panels are adjusted down from the 45* winter setting to 32* for spring/fall and would certainly be much worse ar 14* for summer. I cut the remainder of the post off hand hand painted the ends to prevent rust.
I used zinc coated hardware, which apparently will not cross-mojinate with the aluminum. Bi-facial panels were out of the question as there's no room to install hardware this way. They're snug enough to lock the panel in place but not so much as to distort the frame as these frames weren't exactly designed to be installed this way.
I used a heavy-duty landscape fabric which has a felt bottom and made as few cuts as possible then taped the seems from underneath. I installed staples on either side of every cut and elsewhere to keep it in place. I've used this many times for landscape purposes and it will last a very long time and be very easy to maintain and keep shit of my f'n panels! . Once I get grass growing all throughout the area, I'll just mow right over the edge of the fabric and collect the clippings. Mini field cost besides the panels & pv cable was < $500.


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SS is sending a read write cable for the communication hub. Pictures are at night. I watched for a minute and watt use dipped into the 160's. Guess that's pretty low. I don't notice much change at all in the soc's on the hub in the morning and the panels start producing as soon as it starts to brighten up outside. Not much that early in the morning, but a few hundred watts are coming in shortly after the sun cracks at dusk and that's all this house needs until I turn on a major appliance.


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Sometimes, especially is pv production is falling off as the sun goes down, it'll start pulling from the grid rather than the batteries, but after a few minutes, it pulls from the batteries.
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Basic
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Charge
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Discharge
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Might want to check your discharge amps. I don’t know your batteries specs. But I had to move mine down from 250 amp to 160amp. And you might want to check your charge amps. If it’s too high and your BMS doesn’t caught it, probably wouldn’t end well.
 
They're set to what the tech from SS had me set them to during commissioning.
These are eg4 lifepower4 batteries.
I called the tech dept today to see what else should be changed because now that the comm hub is goood, I wanted the battery setting on "lithium" whereas due to the hub not being set up at the time of commissioning, he had me put the batteries on "lead-acid".
 
Wow, there is a ton of info in the display menu; I'm a bit jealous.

Few things I noticed glancing at them.
Under the grid the voltages don't add up. 251.5 doesn't equal 122.6 + 123.8, likely no big deal but I wonder where it's getting 251.5.
Under battery, your cutoff is 2.5V / cell. I would increase this.
Max cell is 3.39V min is 3.327V, keep an eye on min and max when charging. I suspect you'll have to float for a long while to get them back in balance. I dealt with this on my diy pack I didn't top balance (I know I should have since my BMS doesn't have active balancing.
Under discharge your cutoff is 46V, this is better than the 40V under battery, but your stop discharge is still 40V. (remember I don't have one of these so I don't completely understand them).
Under Charge, reduce the 56.4V absorb if you have issues with high cells (the deviation between min /max cell voltages I mentioned above).
Depending how many batteries you have your charge and discharge amps could exceed recommended C rates for the batteries.

Sorry if that's hard to read, I'm bouncing back and forth between tabs on my phone while looking at your settings.

All in all I don't see anything super alarming. If the system is working for you and you're not having any issues let it run.
A year ago my head would hurt trying to make sense of everything... If you're in the same boat it will get way better and all make sense in time. When you get frustrated walk away and come back to it.
Keep posting questions you have, it's fun learning. Most importantly, don't get shocked ?.

Ps - there is a Lux Power thread that I was following for a while with a plethora of information on this inverter, a lot of it may be outdated by now since there have been so many firmware updates.
I hope everything is figured out quickly so your biggest concern can be what loads to run when your batteries are nearly full so you aren't wasting all those potential photons...
 
Hey, thanks for the response 420.
First time I used a volt meter was last week, a couple days prior to start up. I checked the panels then the strings and diagnosed a mistake I made.
I have flipped a few houses and installed a tablet radio in one of my cars, but that's it and I never needed to know a damn thing about electricity. I've gotten away with it all this time, and now it's caught up with me.
 
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It will all make sense before you know it. Hell 5 years ago I said solar was dumb and the extent of my electrical knowledge was replacing a breaker, changing a receptacle, adding led light bars to the tractor... Now I've had my grid breaker turned off for months and installed the first phase of my system in Oct 22... Baby steps ?
 
On your dongle issue, was your phone ever able to connect toBA31101538 Wi-Fi. Sometimes it take a long time before mine will give a check mark that it’s latch on.
 
On your dongle issue, was your phone ever able to connect toBA31101538 Wi-Fi. Sometimes it take a long time before mine will give a check mark that it’s latch on.
No. I did what I could and I don't even remember exactly what I did. I don't normally do this kind of stuff. I make calls, send texts, take & download pics and use the phone as a hot spot for a tablet radio I've got in one of my cars. I actually hate using the phone for anything else and always rely on my laptop.
 
Newbie here reading some old threads and learning new tricks
I admire the way you think like 👍 the clean look of your setup I recently "2 weeks ago" received my 20k+ of solar crap from SS and now have a new hobby
I took a similar approach to yours mostly because of location and limited space of my main panel.
Then I seen your ferrules, I've used a similar technique for over 25 years that started with those old 2-bolt clamp style replacement top post battery cable ends I'd mouse the stranded wire with stripped ballast wire remnants.
Also like rear cable entry very clean and easier to manage in both pull wire and termination.
Keep up the good work and share so others can learn. At least that's what I've been told.
 
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Newbie here reading some old threads and learning new tricks
I admire the way you think like 👍 the clean look of your setup I recently "2 weeks ago" received my 20k+ of solar crap from SS and now have a new hobby
I took a similar approach to yours mostly because of location and limited space of my main panel.
Then I seen your ferrules, I've used a similar technique for over 30 years that started with those old 2-bolt clamp style replacement top post battery cable ends I'd mouse the stranded wire with stripped ballast wire remnants.
Also like rear cable entry very clean and easier to manage in both pull wire and termination.
Keep up the good work and share so others can learn. At least that's what I've been told.
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That looks really clean and well organized.
I especially like the batteries close to the inverter.
I started out with server rack batteries and a 6000 EX inverter after re-evaluating things I took a different approach
I changed my order about the 12KPV And a week later ordered the other 2 batteriesI kinda had a limited space to deal with and this is the best place to put the equipment because it's where my main panel was
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I put together as a portable backup generator to use in my RV and for other purposes like backing up the panel when I installed the inverter and did the supply side taps
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My meter and all of my paneling backs up to one another so it makes wiring really simple
Believe me a lot of measuring and figuring went into this to make everything lineup just right
I still have APV combiner box to go on the outside next to the main disconnect box I added
 

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