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My new construction home DIY solar build thread (EG4 18Kpv) Texas 🇺🇲

Looks good, sounds like you were not going to parallel the 18Kpv. Unless I missed something. There was a thread about running a 3 HP pump on a 18Kpv. I tried to find it but failed. In your research was the 18Kpv able to handle the 3 HP pump? Off grid (grid down) thanks
 
I wasn't planning on paralleling the 18Kpv, unless there is some advantage to doing so that I'm not aware of.

As far as the 3 HP well pump, the way I understand it:
1. If it can't power it, the 18Kpv will get the required power from the grid (bypass). Is that not correct?
2. As a last resort, I can move the 3 HP pump circuit to Load Center #2 which is directly connected to the grid. No inverter.
 
1. If it can't power it, the 18Kpv will get the required power from the grid (bypass). Is that not correct? Yes, as long as the grid is available. But when the power goes out, and there is no PV. The 18Kpv can supply Max. Continuous Output Current 50A (12,000 watts and Without PV: 13.5kW for 10 min. So the 3HP pump and other loads might overwhelm the 18Kpv causing it to shut down. Do you know the surge watts of your 3 HP Pump? I found this on the web, but it might not apply to your pump.

One of the concerns I was think, was if the pump was able to trip the 18Kpv from an overload. And the 18Kpv kept resetting every 300 seconds that would put a lot of stress on the pump.
 

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I wasn't planning on paralleling the 18Kpv, unless there is some advantage to doing so that I'm not aware of.

You sould measure the in-rush current. I have a fan for an heat air blower and I measured a 8 Amp
when running but the in-Rush current of 56 Amp, so 7x. ( I used an UEi DL429B Digital Multimeter)

If you want to be able to run your pump when there is a power outage,
I would stronly recommend having both EG4 connected,
and if you want to run on battery, to add a SoftStart device.
 
100%. DC must go in metal conduit.
What is the basis for this code requirement?

Seems arbitrary to me. If PVC is good enough to protect AC wiring (that could be higher voltage and power than DC), why isn't it good enough to protect PV DC wiring?

And even odder, PVC is okay outside the building for PV DC wiring.

Mike C.
 
What is the basis for this code requirement?

Seems arbitrary to me. If PVC is good enough to protect AC wiring (that could be higher voltage and power than DC), why isn't it good enough to protect PV DC wiring?

And even odder, PVC is okay outside the building for PV DC wiring.

Mike C.
Arcing that can cause fires?
 
And if there was a breach, want it Arc against the metal conduit causing the AFCI switch in the inverter to shut it down?
 
Yes, measured for PowerPro wall mount batteries. I don't know if I'll add them ($$$), but I'd sure like to!
Definitely is the right idea to plan ahead. The PowerPros really look slick, lots of people on here seem to have them.

You must live in an area with a stable grid. Where I am in the US, I've learned to live with just putting all my electronic devices on UPS's. I must have 5 or 6 in the house. Got really tired of flickering power during mild thunderstorms after years of dealing with it.

I dream of the day that I can just have a UPS on my PC and the rest of the house covered by a whole-home solar/battery system!
 
What is the basis for this code requirement?

Seems arbitrary to me. If PVC is good enough to protect AC wiring (that could be higher voltage and power than DC), why isn't it good enough to protect PV DC wiring?

And even odder, PVC is okay outside the building for PV DC wiring.

Mike C.
I can't explain how the NEC decided it, but you have to do it for a code compliant install.
 
Arcing that can cause fires?
Metal conduit makes that more likely, not less, since it provides conductive material everywhere.

Also, metal conduit means cutting metal and metal shavings. That's the last thing I want to mix with power wires.

I suspect this has to do with metal conduit suppliers or trade unions and really has no basis in safety.

Mike C.
 
Metal conduit makes that more likely, not less, since it provides conductive material everywhere.

Also, metal conduit means cutting metal and metal shavings. That's the last thing I want to mix with power wires.

I suspect this has to do with metal conduit suppliers or trade unions and really has no basis in safety.

Mike C.
I had a discussion with @timselectric on this. The idea is around arcing on the DC conductors inside the tube. I guess hopefully the gap will widen or a breaker will trip, and steel will not catch fire in the mean time. Of course a big enough arc will chew thru steel as easily as plastic, but might give you a bit more time. I think it's a little esoteric, but it's a reason. If you accidentally create an arc inside the conduit steel would be better than PVC, which would likely catch fire. High voltage DC is not as forgiving as AC.
 
If you accidentally create an arc inside the conduit steel would be better than PVC
Last year I had installed about 45 feet of PVC in my crawl space for solar PV (250V), until I started reading this forum.
I gladly ripped it all out and replaced it with EMT.

And, I have a GFPD, so if the + shorts to the conduit, it will trip.
 
If you accidentally create an arc inside the conduit steel would be better than PVC, which would likely catch fire.
So why is PVC okay outside the building, say on the roof, if that is the reason? Fire there is okay somehow?

Mike C.
 
Spray foam insulation is in. Drywall is underway! I covered my precious 18Kpv with a garbage bag to prevent sheetrock mud and spray getting into the vents in the top.
 

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