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Best ground mounts for 45 degrees?

JBoffgrid2022

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Looking for advice on installing 48 ground mounted panels at 45 degrees. I've found several less expensive options online but they don't support 45 degree angles.
Any thoughts?
 
Looking for advice on installing 48 ground mounted panels at 45 degrees. I've found several less expensive options online but they don't support 45 degree angles.
Any thoughts?
Ground mounts are quickly becoming one of the main expenses if a system. Quality ones already cost as much as the panels.

Just saying... I too wanted 45 degrees. To capture more in the winter as I'll have too much during summer anyway. Until I found out I can add ~30% more panels at 25 degrees, spend a lot less on a mount, have the same in winter and have in bigger excess during summer (that I hope to use for cooling).

Of course this is location dependant. Don't make a choice about the angle without spending significant time comparing options with a pv calculator.
 
There's currently no way of getting a price on their site for 48 panels, I filled out the request for qoute form though. Thanks for the tip!
Adjustable :$6,480.00
Fixed: $5,800.00

Whether it’s one system or many, they charge about $2500 to deliver.

So you’re better off picking it up or getting a third-party to deliver.
 
I need to install 16 400W ground mount panels at 45 degrees) in an area with much surface bedrock (what we call "ledge" in New England). Given the difficulty of digging a hole and the price of ready-made racks, I've pretty much convinced myself to just build the mounts out of PT wood using a ballast-based approach. I have a neighbor that did this several years ago and they've not moved an inch through several storms. I'll use even more ballast, and possibly rear guy wires to protect from north winds at the rear. The prices of ready-made ground mounts are just insane.
 
I built a Tamarack Ground mount, Tamarack has engineering letters on their website for every state.
This was very helpful for the permitting process.
The tables included in the engineering also help the planning process, determine your panel size, wind load, snow load and soil type and build to what the table says.
 
I built a Tamarack Ground mount, Tamarack has engineering letters on their website for every state.
This was very helpful for the permitting process.
The tables included in the engineering also help the planning process, determine your panel size, wind load, snow load and soil type and build to what the table says.
All I have ever installed. My experience with the support from Tamarak is excellant, They will talk directly to the building code dept. in any juristiction to get you through the permit process.
One thing learned is the spacing of foundation piers, the more tilt the more concrete (deeper holes to auger out) you have to place for wind load/snow loading of panels.
And yes it is important to get the foundation correct, I have seen multiple sets of panels get tipped over in the wind from the foundation not being built to specification.
 
IntegraRack makes a mount that goes at 45 degrees now. Will just made a video on their 30 degree ground mount that is very similar - they have both ballast options where you just use dirt to hold them down or anchor spikes that can be used on all sorts of soil types without very expensive equipment to put in ground screws. The price is pretty impressive and it's quick to install.
 
I've used Unirac U/LA.
Don't know if their engineering rules have any angle limits, but you could certainly build anything with it.
 
I need to install 16 400W ground mount panels at 45 degrees) in an area with much surface bedrock (what we call "ledge" in New England). Given the difficulty of digging a hole and the price of ready-made racks, I've pretty much convinced myself to just build the mounts out of PT wood using a ballast-based approach. I have a neighbor that did this several years ago and they've not moved an inch through several storms. I'll use even more ballast, and possibly rear guy wires to protect from north winds at the rear. The prices of ready-made ground mounts are just insane.
Ballast is a great option if one can't easily dig, but why PT wood and not steel if you're going the DIY route? (galvanised or otherwise). At this stage (I have both a non-galvanised painted mount and a galvanised one) I'd choose galvanised. Far less maintenance required.

How are you planning to stack your panels and how big are they? If you can use galvanised square profile fencing posts (2.3m or 7.5ft long) that can work out very cost effectively, but I'd not use thinner wall than 2mm (14 gauge or 0.08in).

You can make vertical "legs" from this and use aluminium extrusion as horizontal sections.

You just need the ability to cut it and drill through it (a lot!).
 
Ballast is a great option if one can't easily dig, but why PT wood and not steel if you're going the DIY route? (galvanised or otherwise).
Mostly because I'm pretty good at working with wood and less so with metal. Also, while I note PT wood, here in Maine we often build external structures with green hemlock, which I have on my land. It ages like iron (and becomes difficult to work after about 6-12 months) but it survives all but ground contact well. So, I might have a friend mill out some green hemlock and use that, with ground contact PT just serving as a barrier with the ground. If I need to replace those ground pieces every 10 years I won't much care. Metal isn't out of the running - I just have access to a lot of wood.
 
Mostly because I'm pretty good at working with wood and less so with metal. Also, while I note PT wood, here in Maine we often build external structures with green hemlock, which I have on my land. It ages like iron (and becomes difficult to work after about 6-12 months) but it survives all but ground contact well. So, I might have a friend mill out some green hemlock and use that, with ground contact PT just serving as a barrier with the ground. If I need to replace those ground pieces every 10 years I won't much care. Metal isn't out of the running - I just have access to a lot of wood.
I took the design linked below and made it out of wood, I'm making another out of steel by fall.

 
I need to install 16 400W ground mount panels at 45 degrees) in an area with much surface bedrock (what we call "ledge" in New England). Given the difficulty of digging a hole and the price of ready-made racks, I've pretty much convinced myself to just build the mounts out of PT wood using a ballast-based approach. I have a neighbor that did this several years ago and they've not moved an inch through several storms. I'll use even more ballast, and possibly rear guy wires to protect from north winds at the rear. The prices of ready-made ground mounts are just insane.
I'm leaning in that direction right now because the cost of the ground mounts is staggering....
I just need to confirm that PT would pass local codes.
 
Mostly because I'm pretty good at working with wood and less so with metal. Also, while I note PT wood, here in Maine we often build external structures with green hemlock, which I have on my land. It ages like iron (and becomes difficult to work after about 6-12 months) but it survives all but ground contact well. So, I might have a friend mill out some green hemlock and use that, with ground contact PT just serving as a barrier with the ground. If I need to replace those ground pieces every 10 years I won't much care. Metal isn't out of the running - I just have access to a lot of wood.
Same here.. No clue how metal goes together but I could probably build you just about anything you could think of from wood! hahaha
 
Pouring a floating slab is an option. Good reflection if you use bifacial. Ballast in freezing climates can have problems with differential heaving depending on soil.
Floating slab? You mean build a form and pour concrete inside? Seems pretty simple to me
 
I'm leaning in that direction right now because the cost of the ground mounts is staggering....
I just need to confirm that PT would pass local codes.
My local jurisdiction requires anything over 6 feet tall to be engineered.
That could get difficult with wood
Hopefully that is not a requirement where you live
 
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My local jurisdiction requires anything over 6 feet tall to be engineered.
That could get difficult with wood
Hopefully that is not a requirement where you live
There are pros and cons to it, but the only codes we have are for plumbing and what's called shoreland zoning (what you build/do within x feet of a body of water, which doesn't apply to this part of the property). What makes me chuckle a bit is that amazingly our structures still somehow survive just fine, and as a volunteer firefighter I haven't seen any higher rate of fires and safety issues than seems to exist in areas with strict codes on everything one does. To a large degree, we have a culture of "don't try to protect me from me" and I think I prefer that.
 
Pouring a floating slab is an option. Good reflection if you use bifacial. Ballast in freezing climates can have problems with differential heaving depending on soil.
It will be on gravel. Given the large amount of ledge in that area, I'm not too worried about frost heave as the only earth likely to shift is the top two feet (including the gravel), and that would be minimal. If it racks, will keep panels far enough apart to avoid damage from hitting each other.

Frankly, I'd worry more about a slab not protected from frost heave in this area, as the potential for it to come apart is significant. We just poured a large (36'x44') slab as a frost-protected shallow foundation. No footings at all - just a large bed of 2" foam sheets over a vapor barrier, with the foam extending 4' out beyond the edges, and foam up the sides. Thickened edges 12" deep and about 16" in to support the perimeter walls. Filled the middle with 6" of gravel, wire mesh with pex tubing for hydronic heat, and then rebar at 12" on center criss-crossing all of it, and doubled up on the thickened outer perimeter. 4000 PSI mix. These have been common in Scandinavia for many years and have become more popular here in Maine as well, especially given the amount of ledge in some areas. The building contributes some heat to prevention of frost heave (if you rely on that the foam doesn't extend out as far and the specs are a bit easier) or on capturing the heat of the earth itself, for unheated structures. In other words, the insulation (foam or mineral wool) becomes the key element to the success of the slab. You probably already know all that, but others reading this might benefit.
 
We couldn't be happier with our Sinclair mount system. Went together like a big erector set. In about 15 man-hours we went from uprights only to fully-paneled. Frames are factory-drilled to match your panels, and the (included) serrated nuts and bolts bond everything together (confirmed with a meter). Our real-world adjustment goes from 13 degrees to 59. We picked them up at the factory in SE MI. Not cheap, but worth it in time and aggravation eliminated.

Major rock underground in the area, hence the ballasts....

Jim

IMG_1588.jpegIMG_1599.jpegIMG_1601.jpeg
 
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We couldn't be happier with our Sinclair mount system. Went together like a big erector set. In about 15 man-hours we went from uprights only to fully-paneled. Frames are factory-drilled to match your panels, and the (included) serrated nuts and bolts bond everything together (confirmed with a meter). Our real-world adjustment goes from 13 degrees to 59. We picked them up at the factory in SE MI. Not cheap, but worth it in time and aggravation eliminated.

Major rock underground in the area, hence the ballasts....

Jim

View attachment 222385View attachment 222386
That ground mount looks bad ass
 

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