JK-BMS PB1A16S15P vs. JK-BMS B2A24S15P

I need to purchase some additional JK-BMS's ...

Right now AliExpress has the JK-BMS PB1A16S15P and the JK-BMS B2A24S15P for the same price of 87.17

I have used many of the JK B2A24S15P with no issues ...

The PB1A16S15P seems to be the latest version although it has an ability to talk to the INVERTER (which I don't need) vs the older version has 2A instead of 1A balancing -- which I do like ...

Guess i am asking if anyone sees a need for me to get the newer version -- or if anyone has any experience with the newer one .. it is 2X as large but again - not sure if that's helpful ...

I just bought the 24s 15p as I don't need the inverter either for my project mini EV. I like the idea of having the 2A active balancing capability.

I'll try the newer JK BMS model for inverters someday though when I'm in need of that to talk to my future inverter. For now this is best for me. Check out the off grid garage on his series on both.

JK-B2A24S15P.​

I am just finalizing my home battery bank (the desired end result) which will have 7x280AH. I have been using the regular JK's for quite some time and love'm. But now I am putting everything into identical steel cases so my existing & new packs are the same. So I stepped up and am using the JK-B2A24S20P (200A with 2A Active Balancer) and I must say they are better, the balancing algorithm is certainly more efficient and the additional tweaks & adjustments really do make a difference. The access to the BMS' via CAN/RS485 is also a big feature (beyond Inverter connectivity). Firmware Upgradability was also a major factor in my choice to jump over.

You can get the 2 Amp version (JK-PB2A16S15P) at Shenzhen Luyuan on Alibaba for $86. They also have your JK-B2A24S15P for $78. Just remember the form factor for the two BMS that you asked about are very different. The PB-series is about twice as long as the B-series.

Shenzhen Luyuan on Alibaba (https://szluyuan.en.alibaba.com/) is a great seller that you can trust. Just don't use the cart but do everything by chat with Amy.
That is where @Steve_S is getting the BMS he recommended (they have it for $108). He has been working with Amy for a good 5 years. He even helped design the awesome cases I got from them!

BTW: An Observation I have made during this process.
Reminder, I am changing existing packs for the STD JK-200 w/2A Active Balancing to the new Inverter models.
Same Cells transferred to new cases with new BMS: Believe it or not, the new ones actually balance the cells faster & better than the previous edition. I still see the same "weak & strong" cells as before BUT with the management they are far better behaved (not that they were flaky or bad).
Now I have packs with original EVE LF280's (bulk), some with LF280K (A & B) & some with LF280N (B). New Packs have the latest LF280K (A) with double hole pads. This provides a very nice cross section to look at. Even moreso because of the "variety" it really shows.

A final Observation - Peculiarity.
The latest (A) LF280K (dbl hole) charge just a wee bit faster than their neighbouring LF280K (A) with Posts. Cells with Posts seem to take a bit more Amps before reaching 100% in comparison. Cells with Tapped Holes also take charge a "tad" quicker (not significant). Simple as hitting 100% about 10 minutes ahead of the slower ones.

The cells grades and versions each have their own "personal quirks" which were far more evident with the older JK but the newer ones when properly configured & when the Voltage Calibration is done properly. *

* Quick & Best way to ensure proper Voltage Calibration with JK's.
- Top Charge & Balance cells as normal. Assemble "working" pack with BMS.
- BEFORE Attaching any cables to PACK, enable charge/discharge, turn on breaker so the Case Terminals are LIVE.
- Use a 2 Decimal Accurate DMM/DVOM and test the voltage on your Cse Terminals and enter that into the Voltage Calibration cell in Advanced Config.
- NO NEED FOR AMP VALUE because there is no power flowing In/Out. That is used for corrections IF there is amperage flowing when calibrating.
! TIP: You can use a Battery Cell tester like a YR1030 / 1035+ to get really accurate measurements. The YR's can handle up to 100VDC. Other brands - you'd have to check first.

PS: I start Active Balancing at 3.42V with 0.010 difference triggering. My float is at 3.437 (@ cell) and on average by the time Bulk/Absorb ends, there "may" be about 10 minutes of balancing and voila, all under 0.007difference (All Cells in All Packs. The newest LF280K (dual hole) usually don't even use the Active Balancer (note these are Factory Matched & Batched like my other A Cells).