Solar panel mounting on RV
- Thread starter Firetodd
- Start date
Firetodd
New Member
My plan is to mount the uni strut directly to the roof, then use the tilting brackets to mount to the solar panels to the uni strut. This will allow access under the panels for wiring and provide good air circulation as well as the ability to angle the panels towards the sun if I will be parked in one spot for more than a day or two.
Looks good but I really dislike those clamp mounts for mobile use. The only thing holding the panel on is the clamping force and over time as things loosen up (corrosion, heat cycles, etc, etc) those panels could come loose.
I really think you need 4 fasteners through the panel with nylock nuts that will not come off.
Firetodd
New Member
I agree and came to the same conclusion. I will be using the cone nuts with bolts through the frame as well!
Last edited:
Zwy
Emperor Of Solar
Many panels are double walled on the sides. Not as easy as drilling a hole and putting a bolt thru it. I describe how I did my panels in this thread. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/strut-channel-for-roof-of-rv.20091/page-2#post-235752
If you must attach on the side face, purchase a hole saw that is slightly bigger than the socket for your fasteners. This will allow you to drill a larger hole on the inside of the frame if you find the panel double walled. You have to be extremely careful drilling any extra holes in any of the frames regardless of the sides or bottom as any slip and you can break a panel.
You can install a flat across the backside of the panel and use the provided holes in the frame. Leave an inch tab stick out on the side and use that 1 inch tab to fasten to the unistrut.
I used blue Loctite on every panel fastener where I could not use a nylock nut in the middle of the PV array. On the sides, I was able to thread a nylock nut onto the bolt after it was threaded to the stainless spring nut in order to double nut it.
I doubt my panels will ever fly off.
these would work to use the bottom hole in the panels and get it accessible on top of the strut to use a 1/4 bolt to hold it down. Get some 1/4 captive strut nuts and their square spacer washers. You can cut these in 1/2 to get two tabs from every piece.
I lost a panel on the Interstate due to a loose bolt on a clamp. That is why I am installing cone nuts exclusively, without any clamping type holders. I cannot see any way a cone nut can let go.
HTH;
John
Firetodd
New Member
Copy that. Maybe I’ll save my clamps for a future endeavor.
Firetodd
New Member
My 5th wheel RV was delivered today. It’s awesome, but I went on the roof and measured for my panels and I can only fit 6 of my 350 watt panels on the roof… I was hoping for 10.
I will be using a MPP LV6548 and only using one of the two solar inputs for now. I figure I can always mount the other 4 on a patio that we have and then run a MC4 cable to the second input if needed.
Anyway, my panels have a VOC of 46.7, with a rated voltage of 38.9. And the LV6548 has a voltage range of 90-230 with a startup voltage of 80 and max VOC of 250. So should I do 3s2p with my panels?
I will be using a MPP LV6548 and only using one of the two solar inputs for now. I figure I can always mount the other 4 on a patio that we have and then run a MC4 cable to the second input if needed.
Anyway, my panels have a VOC of 46.7, with a rated voltage of 38.9. And the LV6548 has a voltage range of 90-230 with a startup voltage of 80 and max VOC of 250. So should I do 3s2p with my panels?
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I think 3s2p is your only choice.
Where's the pictures of the RV???
Where's the pictures of the RV???
Firetodd
New Member
Nice looking rig!
Firetodd
New Member
Firetodd
New Member
The swing out on that has to be huge! Strange place to put a tire. I thought they put it under front. But I'm not up on 5th wheel trailers.
Firetodd
New Member
The first hole will be painful. But after that, it will be ok. I think.
Holes can be patched. It's not a big deal if done right.
