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Short battery with spanner -help pls.

iamliv

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Dec 26, 2020
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E4E2245C-D487-4708-9948-029285B013DF.jpegI shorted my battery (with a spanner) from the battery fuse to the negative bus bar of the lynx distributer (see red pen) just after the shunt. Note the black cables with red heat shrink are positive cables. As such it was a short across my battery bank (not through the fuse or battery switch). There was a small spark/noise, the spanner was metal no insulation, my lithium batteries are inactive and had 0V across them prior to this, I didn’t feel any zap, the spanner and nut both have black spots and the spanner was somewhat welded on. How do I test my batteries aren’t f$@&?! given they are inactive and I need to charge them first? I was hoping by the fact that I didn’t die, the spanner didn’t melt that maybe the batteries have a self protect. I thought I read in the renogy manual online that if they short I just need to reactivate? Which needed to be done anyway. Anyone know or had this happen, they are brand new, it was a very careless mistake that I was wary of not doing, rookie error :(
 
Will routinely tests short circuit protection function of batteries/BMSs.

Short circuit protection is still active. Simply reactivate batteries. Should be fine.
 
IMO, your only 'mistakes' were in mounting the positive and negative buss bars so close together . . . . and, it's always a good idea when doing ANY wiring to always make the connection to the battery negative the very last connection you make

Don
 
Will routinely tests short circuit protection function of batteries/BMSs.

Short circuit protection is still active. Simply reactivate batteries. Should be fine.
Thanks mate, I was praying that would be the case. Much appreciate the reply. Might go check those vids out.
 
IMO, your only 'mistakes' were in mounting the positive and negative buss bars so close together . . . . and, it's always a good idea when doing ANY wiring to always make the connection to the battery negative the very last connection you make

Don
Yeah cheers, I was trying to put the cover back on the fuse ??
when I mounted everything, I thought this could be trouble but reassured myself I would be careful. Look how that turned out. Fml. Thanks for response so true, much appreciated ???
 
Yeah cheers, I was trying to put the cover back on the fuse ??
when I mounted everything, I thought this could be trouble but reassured myself I would be careful. Look how that turned out. Fml. Thanks for response so true, much appreciated ???

Your are not alone. I have caused much pain and frustration to myself with whispered promises of (nah, I'll be careful. Won't happen).
 
Yup - You are very lucky the short circuit protection kicked in and saved you from welding your spanner. That usually only happens to a person once, as it's a very unique learning experience! :oops:

Don
 
IMO, your only 'mistakes' were in mounting the positive and negative buss bars so close together . . . . and, it's always a good idea when doing ANY wiring to always make the connection to the battery negative the very last connection you make

Don
I'd have to disagree. Proximity of busbars and connections are irrelevant so long as arcing concerns are addressed. The issue here had nothing to do with proximity, and everything to do with failure to follow safe protocol. Always treat electrical systems as if they've got 200+ volts on them and careless mistakes such as this will not be made. Had OP treated this as if it was a high voltage system (which all electrical systems should be handled as), the mistake wouldn't have been made because you don't wrench on live components. Batteries are slight exception in that you can't safe them, but you can wear gloves (I prefer a 5-7 mil nitrile) and eye protection, and always exercise caution.

Those of us who play with high and low voltage systems have 1 set of operating procedures -- safe it, verify it's safe, then proceed with work. The battery is the last thing to bring into a circuit and the first to be removed. Always verify with a meter, and drain caps with an appropriate resistor where appropriate.

Careless procedures eventually lead to the human being the irreplaceable component that's given up its magic smoke. Stay safe, stay alive.
 
I'd have to disagree. Proximity of busbars and connections are irrelevant so long as arcing concerns are addressed. The issue here had nothing to do with proximity, and everything to do with failure to follow safe protocol. Always treat electrical systems as if they've got 200+ volts on them and careless mistakes such as this will not be made. Had OP treated this as if it was a high voltage system (which all electrical systems should be handled as), the mistake wouldn't have been made because you don't wrench on live components. Batteries are slight exception in that you can't safe them, but you can wear gloves (I prefer a 5-7 mil nitrile) and eye protection, and always exercise caution.

Those of us who play with high and low voltage systems have 1 set of operating procedures -- safe it, verify it's safe, then proceed with work. The battery is the last thing to bring into a circuit and the first to be removed. Always verify with a meter, and drain caps with an appropriate resistor where appropriate.

Careless procedures eventually lead to the human being the irreplaceable component that's given up its magic smoke. Stay safe, stay alive.
Valid advice, which I’ll be certain to follow. Cheers for reply ?
 
Will routinely tests short circuit protection function of batteries/BMSs.

Short circuit protection is still active. Simply reactivate batteries. Should be fine.
Hello, Sir. Can you elaborate on "Simply reactivate batteries." I was hooking up my 200ah battery and the same thing happened to me. Been searching to no avail on how to reactivate.

Thanks!
 
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