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Current calibration on Overkill/JBD/similar smart BMS

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Wondering how many people are doing this, because the internet doesn't have as much information as I'd expect on the matter.

On one of my packs I have a smart BMS and a BMV712. The ah consumption varies wildly between the two because the BMV almost always shows an idle load of 3-4 watts (a 4G LTE router with internal battery, so not a guaranteed consistent draw...) but the BMS shows 0 watts most of the time, and 3-4 watts occasionally.

Calibrating the above BMS involved bumping up the discharge current so the BMS would consistently show power being consumed, and then I dialed it in to match the BMV. Unfortunately, this made no difference because the BMS I guess is simply not sensitive enough to regularly detect the idle 3-4w load.

On my latest build I'm using another identical smart BMS and noticed with my usual load test that it's reporting 10 watts less than the first BMS, and some other packs (again all using the same smart BMS) so that's an obvious item of concern.

So what is the proper way to calibrate these? The best I can do is calibrate them off of other devices (BMV) or BMS units (each other) and I don't really have any way of knowing if any of them are accurate. And I'm still SOL as far as I can tell, for the minor loads. The first system with the BMV & smart BMS is in a vehicle and designed for camping, so the load most of the time is the occasional 12v fridge cycle and the LTE router. Unless I'm charging to full every day, which isn't happening consistently in the winter, my SOC is somewhat a mystery.
 
Wondering how many people are doing this, because the internet doesn't have as much information as I'd expect on the matter.

On one of my packs I have a smart BMS and a BMV712. The ah consumption varies wildly between the two because the BMV almost always shows an idle load of 3-4 watts (a 4G LTE router with internal battery, so not a guaranteed consistent draw...) but the BMS shows 0 watts most of the time, and 3-4 watts occasionally.

Calibrating the above BMS involved bumping up the discharge current so the BMS would consistently show power being consumed, and then I dialed it in to match the BMV. Unfortunately, this made no difference because the BMS I guess is simply not sensitive enough to regularly detect the idle 3-4w load.

On my latest build I'm using another identical smart BMS and noticed with my usual load test that it's reporting 10 watts less than the first BMS, and some other packs (again all using the same smart BMS) so that's an obvious item of concern.

So what is the proper way to calibrate these? The best I can do is calibrate them off of other devices (BMV) or BMS units (each other) and I don't really have any way of knowing if any of them are accurate. And I'm still SOL as far as I can tell, for the minor loads. The first system with the BMV & smart BMS is in a vehicle and designed for camping, so the load most of the time is the occasional 12v fridge cycle and the LTE router. Unless I'm charging to full every day, which isn't happening consistently in the winter, my SOC is somewhat a mystery.

First, if you calibrate the current, you should calibrate the zero, charge, and load currents.

If you have zero properly calibrated, but the BMS won't detect small loads ... that is a problem calibration won't correct. Probably an "undocumented feature" of the BMS and isn't an uncommon problem.
 
First, if you calibrate the current, you should calibrate the zero, charge, and load currents.

If you have zero properly calibrated, but the BMS won't detect small loads ... that is a problem calibration won't correct. Probably an "undocumented feature" of the BMS and isn't an uncommon problem.
Yeah, zero was calibrated with absolutely nothing connected to it (the BMV is downstream of the BMS, and that was disconnected) and the BMV was zero current calibrated with nothing connected to it. Suppose it's a matter of sensitivity, as the BMS should be even more accurate than the BMV). I could probably improve this to some degree by removing the battery pack from the router so it's always sucking power. If I have the battery inside for a week not charging, and only powering the router, I may see a difference of like 30ah consumption between BMV and BMS :cautious:

As far as discharge current calibration, are people just using the inline power meters and calibrating to that? Or using a large resistor with a known draw, clamp multimeter, ?

I've never had any issue with charge current, as my best source of truth is a victron MPPT telling me it's pumping out 10.2 amps, where as my BMV sees 10.1 (assuming losses?), and BMS has always been within that range out of the box.
 
I had another shunt monitor ... and a clamp meter to verify current readings when I did mine. If you consider your BMV accurate, just go with that.
 
Funny, dealing with this a year later and the first google result was my own thread.

I am now running a more traditional wireless router on this battery build. The previous USB-charged hotspot thing kind of sucked... you should have seen the pouch cell that came out of it after a few years in my truck bed (-10*F to 130*F)... bloated to the max.

Anyway, this more traditional 12-volt router should show consistent draw on the battery, yeah? Guess not on the JBD BMS. Setup is same as before and all freshly zero current calibrated - BMS alone, then BMV downstream of that (knowing that it could be slightly less accurate being downstream of the BMS). Results: BMV shows 2-3 watts draw (0.2 or so amps @ 13.4v) and BMS shows zero.

This kind of sucks. You can't calibrate the BMS discharge current if it doesn't think it's discharging at all. So I added a little extra load to get to about 10 watts on the BMV and some load detected on the BMS, and calibrated the BMS to the BMV. Yet still, once I removed that extra load the BMV returned to 2-3 watts and the BMS to zero.

Doesn't sound like a big deal, and I admit my OCD is driving this.. but my BMV and BMS consumption/% remaining being different is bothersome. In the winter months when I don't achieve full charge for several days this causes the difference to be quite significant. Any thoughts, anyone?
 
Use FUNCTION SETTING -> RESET CAPACITY to bring it back inline with your 20/40/60/80% voltage set point choices after periods of no use or low current use. Your 20/40/60/80% set points need to be accurate though or your reported SOC might be way off. Mine are confirmed resting voltages after actual testing.

Initiating the Reset Capacity option prior to battery pack use would give you an accurate starting SOC for the upcoming usage period.

Setting 10/20/30/40/50/60/70/80/90% SOC voltage set points through the JBDTools PC software should result in greater accuracy than the 20/40/60/80% settings available through the app. The combination of active use coulomb counting and the voltage set points make these BMS units pretty accurate IMO.
 
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