diy solar

diy solar

Where is all the quality wire, connectors ?

I think once you guys start to solder your closed ended terminal, you won't look back! Been building cables that way for years. They run much cooler with the huge conductivity improvement.
 
It is more than a conductivity improvement.
Soldering can obviously increase the contact of a weak crimp job, it cuts through the oxidation layer of the metal, and seals out further oxidation. It also adds mass to the joint to absorb heat.
a properly treated, crimped and sealed physical joint is superior to a soldered joint, because the strands do not get heated, etc... but us mere mortals don’t have the skills or tools to achievethis.
Solder improves many poor crimped connections, and even though there is a conductivity loss over pure copper, the improvements outweigh them over time from an otherwise degradation issue...
 
fastline said:
I think once you guys start to solder your closed ended terminal, you won't look back! Been building cables that way for years. They run much cooler with the huge conductivity improvement.
Click to expand...

Just note that cables soldered with normal DIY solder used outdoors deteriorate VERY quickly.

Silver solder is the solution here I believe.

To be honest I just crimp most often now and cover with glue backed shrink tubing.
 
JoeHam said:
Just note that cables soldered with normal DIY solder used outdoors deteriorate VERY quickly.

Silver solder is the solution here I believe.

To be honest I just crimp most often now and cover with glue backed shrink tubing.
Click to expand...
What would you call "normal" solder?
Electronic rosin core?
Acid core?
Plumbing lead solder?
Lead free?
95/5 tin/antimony?
 
JoeHam said:
Just note that cables soldered with normal DIY solder used outdoors deteriorate VERY quickly.

Silver solder is the solution here I believe.

To be honest I just crimp most often now and cover with glue backed shrink tubing.
Click to expand...

At work we are required to solder - then crimp - then heat/shrink tubing ... BUT for my stuff -- I just do like you -- crimp and heat/shrink ... NONE of my cables are under stress so not concerned about them pulling apart ...
 
ghostwriter66 said:
LOL - I was thinking the same thing -- I must have a dozen different types of solder sitting here in front of me all being I guess, considered "normal" ...
Click to expand...
Only a dozen? I'm guessing diameter isnt one of the distinctive features...
I am an HVAC contractor... so I'm not quite sure the number of soldiers and brazing rods I have in my arsenal...
I am thinking staybright#8 would be a good solder to try...
Low melting point, high silver content, strong etc...
 
Supervstech said:
Only a dozen? I'm guessing diameter isnt one of the distinctive features...
I am an HVAC contractor... so I'm not quite sure the number of soldiers and brazing rods I have in my arsenal...
I am thinking staybright#8 would be a good solder to try...
Low melting point, high silver content, strong etc...
Click to expand...

You are totally right ... If you go by diameter and not just type I am probably staring at 40 different rolls of sizes and types ... our only real rule of thumb is stay away from any solder made in China -- their tolerances are soooo far off its incredible ....
 
the problem i have is most big lugs have huge hole.
would love to find some that i can drill myself
 
nosys70 said:
the problem i have is most big lugs have huge hole.
would love to find some that i can drill myself
Click to expand...

You mean like this: https://www.amazon.com/Panduit-0-00-X-Conductor-Copper-Compression/dp/B076HY9N9Q

There's also a shorter version: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panduit-corp/LCA2-0-00-X/298-21797-ND/4564301

Seems like it's a lot less expensive to buy from Digikey or Mouser than Amazon whatever the model you want.

That's for 2/0 wire but it's available in a lot of sizes: https://www.panduit.com/en/products...=Blank;sp_cs=UTF-8;x1=l3-title;x2=tongue-type

It's called a blank lug so you can also search directly on google with something like "terminal lug blank 4/0 awg" for example.
 
nosys70 said:
the problem i have is most big lugs have huge hole.
would love to find some that i can drill myself
Click to expand...
For the record, we offer 4/0 lugs with a 5/16" hole, and generally speaking anything smaller than a 5/16" connection post isn't going to be rated to handle the current that you'll (presumably) be carrying with a 4/0 cable... dunno if that helps, it depends on what size holes you're needing, I guess.


...as a side note, weighing in on the solder vs. crimp conversation, soldering is pretty strictly forbidden in mobile and marine applications as the primary means of connection (ABYC E-11.16.3.7) and discouraged even as a secondary means (crimp-then-solder), particularly when dealing with heavy gauge DC cabling, due to the higher risk of strand breakage and loosening over the course of a lifetime of vibration and cable flexing - plus the fact that solder flux attracts moisture which -again over time- will lead to premature cable failure. A good crimp presses the air out from between the strands anyway, so there would be nowhere for the solder to flow into in any case - if you're accomplishing anything by adding solder to a crimp, then your crimp wasn't good to begin with. Furthermore, since the act of soldering can negatively impact the tin coating of a marine-rated cable (ie the heat of the soldering process can melt away the tin coating of marine-grade tinned copper cable, opening up the copper to corrosion) it can be incredibly detrimental to your overall installation.
For reference, you could either A. check under your hood and notice that 97% of connections are crimped, not soldered, or B. read this article, or for that matter this one, or this one. For non-mobile installations, or if you don't have a good crimp tool that produces secure connections, then crimp+solder is certainly a viable solution when done properly.
 
Supervstech said:
The terminal end in that picture is a TERRIBLE cheapo acid or moisture environment fail waiting to happen...
Click to expand...
After you crimp that style, you use a torch and solder in thru the hole. Also have the heat shrink tubing come up over it and the end of shrinking, push it down over the hole.

 
Last edited:
Sgt Raven said:
After you crimp that style, you use a torch and solder in thru the hole. Also have the heat shrink tubing come up over it and the end of shrinking, push it down over the hole.

Click to expand...
True.
If soldering, these work fine.
Be certain you solder with them!
 
ghostwriter66 said:
TEMCO is what I use ... never been disappointed
Click to expand...
When I was building coils for my Vape stuff, I got my Kanthal from them. It was a lot cheaper than buying at the Vape shops. If I need stuff right now, they're located 30 minutes from me.
 
I went with Selterm wire lugs. They seem really high quality and have excellent reviews. They were cheaper than the FTZ and Ancor lugs.
 
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