Do you have a bus bar for high amp's 450 - 500 amps (that I'm not seeing) to connect too? If so yes.... don't run it though the DC fuse box (bottom right of your picture).
Can I wire AC-DC Charger to bus bar instead of direct to battery?
- Thread starter TommyinMiami
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timselectric
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It's only a 10a charger.
12VoltInstalls
life passes by too quickly to not live in freedom
If the LARGE capacity batteries or even solar input has a bad moment a fuse on neg(-) could stop things from looking for ground through the little baby noco charger is what I’d guess. The idea of positive grnd protection I guess makes sense but electrons are still going to transfer energy in the same direction so I dunno.
I wired quite a number of genius chargers on utility trailers and never had two fuses but that was a few years ago
On one of my old vehicles, during starting, the small braided wire that connected the firewall to the engine block melted and fired up some grease when the main cable connection from the battery failed at the engine block.
12VoltInstalls
life passes by too quickly to not live in freedom
Your battery connections should be attached with a bus bar.... you have a 12v battery with more than 10a battery right? This is where the bus bar should be more than your battery. ANL fuse from battery to bus bar on POS size... shunt on NEG side for meter..... Heavy bus bar 450a up! Your DC fuse box should be fuse and run off your bus bar also...
TommyinMiami
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I'll send a pic of the sides, that's where the DC-DC is (left side, not left back)
Its 12v. Batteries are 100a total if 1 internal bms failed.
The AC-DC is only 10a
The DC-DC charger is 40a (installed only as backup to solar)
DC-DC charger has 50a in and 60a fuse to battery. (Both are out right now) I wired the 12v activation wire to the stud jumper cables would attach to, the idea was the 12v from cables would activate the charger BUT it gets 12v from my system so I need to wire in a switch or run a hardwired special cable that connects to this lead only when hooked up to a car. I'll prob just do a switch. I guess I somehow thought when the charger was not in the output side wouldn't have voltage but I guess that was stupid thinking.
The Buspar is 150a max has dedicated 100a fuse all blue sea
The fuse panel is 150a also has its own dedicated 100a fuse blue sea
The inverter is not grounded to frame or ground rod. (Does it need to be) it has dedicated 250a master fuse (direct to battery)
Do I need to up the amps of my bus bars. 4/0 wire to batteries now. 4/0 between batteries.
Charge controler has 40a fuse
Thank you guys for all advice. My wife and 2 dogs appreciate me not burning down the house also.
I'll help is MUCH appreciated.
Its 12v. Batteries are 100a total if 1 internal bms failed.
The AC-DC is only 10a
The DC-DC charger is 40a (installed only as backup to solar)
DC-DC charger has 50a in and 60a fuse to battery. (Both are out right now) I wired the 12v activation wire to the stud jumper cables would attach to, the idea was the 12v from cables would activate the charger BUT it gets 12v from my system so I need to wire in a switch or run a hardwired special cable that connects to this lead only when hooked up to a car. I'll prob just do a switch. I guess I somehow thought when the charger was not in the output side wouldn't have voltage but I guess that was stupid thinking.
The Buspar is 150a max has dedicated 100a fuse all blue sea
The fuse panel is 150a also has its own dedicated 100a fuse blue sea
The inverter is not grounded to frame or ground rod. (Does it need to be) it has dedicated 250a master fuse (direct to battery)
Do I need to up the amps of my bus bars. 4/0 wire to batteries now. 4/0 between batteries.
Charge controler has 40a fuse
Thank you guys for all advice. My wife and 2 dogs appreciate me not burning down the house also.
I'll help is MUCH appreciated.timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2022
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- 19,930
The OP wanted to know if it was ok to connect his 10a charger to the bus bars.
Answer: yes
And, he could connect it to the fuse box. Without any problems, either.
12VoltInstalls
life passes by too quickly to not live in freedom
I’m an advocate of case-grounding mobile inverter installations to the frame as that is a conductor with certain faults- and will trip a breaker or blow a fuse. Some inverters are case-grounded to their neg(-) battery terminal I have heard it said but I’ve not seen that. Usually there’s a lug or stud for this.
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