Bolt Shunt & Disconnect Directly to Lynx?

Greetings solar community, ?

First off, thank you for all the help I have received on this forum. I am finally confident about all of the components of my build and how to install them. ?

?Like most RV solar builds, my components will be installed in a rather tight space in the cab of my schoolbus. Naturally, I am working on keeping everything neat, as well as reasonably spaced apart so that units like the SCC (Victron MPPT 100/50) and DC-DC Charger (Victron Orion 18a) can property cool.

My Lynx Power In (modded to accept fuses) already does a great job of organizing all the loads, but I am wondering if I can save more money and space by bolting my master disconnect (Blue Seas) and shunt (Victron Smartshunt 500a) directly to its beefy posts.

Any other tips on keeping things organized and efficient? All comments and suggestions are welcome! ?

Chaio!

You would need to mount the switch and the shunt to some firm mounting board to prevent stress on the Lynz. Especially the switch.

Yes, and this is how i did mine.

However, the spacing is wonky so you need to do a spacer to mount it like @Zil mentioned so its fixed.

I used a piece of copper bar to connect it just so they werent actually touching.

Below is a photo of a very similar setup to mine i found on the internet, my switch is a little different and was offset about 1/4":

guidecca said:

Would making a robot to roll down your windows be of any help in this regard?

Click to expand...

Maybe I haven't considered it!

SoCalKevin said:

Yes, and this is how i did mine.

However, the spacing is wonky so you need to do a spacer to mount it like @Zil mentioned so its fixed.

I used a piece of copper bar to connect it just so they werent actually touching.

Below is a photo of a very similar setup to mine i found on the internet, my switch is a little different and was offset about 1/4":

Click to expand...

SoCalKevin said:

Yes, and this is how i did mine.

However, the spacing is wonky so you need to do a spacer to mount it like @Zil mentioned so its fixed.

I used a piece of copper bar to connect it just so they werent actually touching.

Below is a photo of a very similar setup to mine i found on the internet, my switch is a little different and was offset about 1/4":

View attachment 93269Thanks for the input, SoCal! I'm totally on board with your suggestion. However, I was specifically asking if the two components could be mounted directly to the Lynx Bus bars WITHOUT the copper bar extensions. What do you think?

Click to expand...

Depending on the size of the bolt on your switch, you probably could make a direct connection. However, I believe the bolt size on the switch is quite large and you'd most likely have to expand the hole on the Lynx (aka drill it out) which I personally would be reluctant to do because of reducing the strength of the bar and potentially decreasing the contact area. I'm not sure how many amps your system will be pushing. I would opt for the copper bus bar suggestion as you'll be maintaining the integrity of the Lynx and mounting will be a lot less effort for the two inches your trying to save.

I bolted my T fuse holder and shunt directly to my Lynx. Had to enlarge the hole for the shunt bolt. Sure cuts down on the number of connections.