Installer bailed, trying to get project salvaged and up to code

Long story short, I signed with an installer back in Nov 2020 and after months and months of delays and broken promises, I finally had my solar panels installed at the start of this year. Only for Inspectional Services at the City of Boston to revoke the permit because it wasn't filed properly (also their fault for initially accepting it). My installer has told me repeatedly that he's filed new permits, but ISD says he's lying. At this point I'm done with him, and just trying to get my system turned on whichever way I can.
I reached out to a number of other installers, and people are either too busy or they don't want to take on the project. Someone recommended I reach out to GreenLancer to get permits drafted, file them myself, and then finish whatever is left. I'm currently in the process of gathering the info for the permits. My utility provider informed me I have to file a new interconnection application, which hopefully I can do as a homeowner.

Which brings me to a number of questions I had about the work that was already done, and if it was done well enough to pass inspection or not. I'm very much learning as I go, having no prior experience with really any of this. Sorry for the basic questions.

The system consists of 20 Rec 400AA Pure panels, with Enphase IQ7+ micro-inverters, IronRidge racking, and an Enphase combiner box. Install is in Boston, MA.

#1 Do you need 4 fasteners per panel? Some are missing.



2# Some of the flashing doesn't appear to be under multiple shingles. The manual for these IronRidge Flashfoot2s shows them going under until the little lines on the side. Is this an issue or not? They're 12 inches long. If this is an issue, I'm basically screwed because 75% of the flashing is installed this way.



3# There are 2 separate strings of 10 panels. The wiring for one of them joins in an elbow rather than at the start of the conduit (no idea why). I don't see any sunlight resistance noted on the wires, unlike on the Enphase cable. The Southwire website mentions AWG 8 min for sunlight, and these are AWG 10. Do these have to be moved or covered?



4# One of the conduit pipes was cut short by a few inches. He put electrical tape around the cables here. Is there a better way of fixing this than taking off the conduit above, getting a longer piece of conduit, then pulling all wiring through again? Does it matter for code?



5# Same picture as 4#, he used the elbow as a junction box to go from the Enphase cable to Southwire cables. The wire nuts take up too much space, and the elbow cover doesn't fit. So he used electrical tape to cover it up instead. Is this up to code? Is this what I need instead? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000GAX31C?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_QEH23WTKR6KC4F3E1647

6# The installer was planning on adding a line-side tap. Since I'm not an electrician, I'd prefer not to touch line-side wiring. There's space for a backfeed breaker (40A?) on a 225A panel. Do I need a conduit from the main panel to as close to the ceiling as possible?



Thanks!

WOW!! if you still owe him money don't pay another penny. All that exposed wire you see is no different than your house wiring in terms of dangerous and Illegal. I'm sorry to say a very slip shoddy install.
Yes you need 4 bolts per module.
The reason the flashing needs to be further under the shingle, if it's installed at a place where 2 shingles butt together water will get under it because it's not pushed under the next shingle course above.. If there is no butt joint no harm just poor workmanship.

Mike 134 said:

WOW!! if you still owe him money don't pay another penny. All that exposed wire you see is no different than your house wiring in terms of dangerous and Illegal. I'm sorry to say a very slip shoddy install.
Yes you need 4 bolts per module.
The reason the flashing needs to be further under the shingle, if it's installed at a place where 2 shingles butt together water will get under it because it's not pushed under the next shingle course above.. If there is no butt joint no harm just poor workmanship.

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+1000

That outdoor conduit is really bad. A good electrician can probably fix that up in half a day.
I would not worry all that much about the shingles, it's not a great job but unless you have a lot of spare cash I would leave it.

'Billy Joe Bob's' solar strikes again. That guy should be embarrassed.

I

robby said:

I would not worry all that much about the shingles, it's not a great job but unless you have a lot of spare cash I would leave it.

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I agree, A few sheets of aluminum flashing slipped under the shingles above the worst cases could be preventative.

Mike 134 said:

WOW!! if you still owe him money don't pay another penny.

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I guess the one saving grace is that I've only paid 50% of the job so far. Hopefully I can salvage it for less than the remaining 50%.

Thanks for the advice all. I wish finding a good contractor who isn't booking 6 months out was easier. If I wait too much longer, I'm losing my block for SMART, which will cost me even more money. Sounds like the conduit is the most egregious part, and perhaps I could attempt this myself. Wouldn't be any worse than the current state of things.

Do wires under the panels have to be routed along the racking and clipped to it? Or is it fine if they're loose and touching the roof?

Alfredo_ said:

Do wires under the panels have to be routed along the racking and clipped to it? Or is it fine if they're loose and touching the roof?

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Yes, that was the first thing the building inspector commented on. He did not even go on the roof, he looked under the panels from the ground.

Wow that's a terrible install. Don't pay that guy another dime. Good luck to you my friend.

Alfredo_ said:

Do wires under the panels have to be routed along the racking and clipped to it? Or is it fine if they're loose and touching the roof?

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https://www.cedgreentech.com/product/ironridge-29-4000-077-wire-management-clips-qty-20 goes on the ironridge rail
https://www.cedgreentech.com/product/heyco-sunrunner-2-cable-clip goes on the module frame

1 - don't know what the reg is on that
2 -as long as the top of the flashing is under a shingle tab (which the photo looks to be) it should be fine.
3- that looks like a wire was cut short. To fix that I'd pull the wire out, re-pull new 1' longer wire and tuck the MC4 connector under the pannel and route the loose wire back through the conduit.
4 -I would expect this is flagged by the inspector yes. You can splice the conduit with a conduit butt connector which doesn't require you to pull the existing conduit off the roof, just add to it. Yes you will have to pull the wire out of it to fix that
5 - you need to change the box type to a LB style box at that location that has space for the wire nuts. (or just pull the wire all the way through without the wire nut junction.)

6 - conduit requirement for the panel is off-in-the-weeds thing in the code. Just ask your inspector, he should be willing to work with you.

The exposed wire also needs to be UV resistant.

I'm sorry to say, but ALL the #10 needs to be replaced with #8
All the conduit should be seamless. Zero tape, or random wires exiting without a box and gland...

Handymen shouldn't touch peoples homes...

Bear in mind, depending in the state that you live in, installers can place a lien on the property if they are not paid for services. I would call your county court house or city just to keep tabs incase a lien is placed on the property. You may possibly never know until you wanted to sell your house and find out that someone put a lien on it.

Supervstech said:

I'm sorry to say, but ALL the #10 needs to be replaced with #8

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I am not sure that is needed on an Enphase Trunk that maxes out at 20 Amps. For sure the Ground wires need to be #8. The Enphase Trunk is #12 but I used #10 because of the distance.

GLC said:

Bear in mind, depending in the state that you live in, installers can place a lien on the property if they are not paid for services.

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And the same thing applies to suppliers. In California a Preliminary Notice is required to protect that lien but the code may be different in Mass. Did the supplier deliver the equipment to your home and/or did you see who that supplier was, or did you get any form of Preliminary Notice from a supplier?

If this installer does try to collect you can go to the Contractors Licensing Board and file a claim. Be sure to point out his misrepresentation of the permit. I am not an attorney but was the CFO for a material supplier and am familiar with the practical issues.

Ampster said:

I am not sure that is needed on an Enphase Trunk that maxes out at 20 Amps. For sure the Ground wires need to be #8. The Enphase Trunk is #12 but I used #10 because of the distance.

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It has to do with roof/wall mounted conduit derating.

Supervstech said:

It has to do with roof/wall mounted conduit derating.

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I understand the concept. Can you explain in more detail for the benefit of the OP? How much derating is required for four conductors in 3/4 conduit? I guessed it was 3/4 inch conduit by comparing it to the Flange nut on the IQ7 cable next to it but the OP can verify.

Oh boy, sounds like things are getting worse, not better. Thanks for the help everyone.

Ampster said:

Yes, that was the first thing the building inspector commented on. He did not even go on the roof, he looked under the panels from the ground.

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Crap, that means I have to remove panels.

Mike 134 said:

https://www.cedgreentech.com/product/ironridge-29-4000-077-wire-management-clips-qty-20 goes on the ironridge rail
https://www.cedgreentech.com/product/heyco-sunrunner-2-cable-clip goes on the module frame

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Appreciate the direct links!

Ampster said:

The exposed wire also needs to be UV resistant.

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Will move this to the conduit (or from the sounds of it, pull new AWG 8 wire).

GLC said:

Bear in mind, depending in the state that you live in, installers can place a lien on the property if they are not paid for services. I would call your county court house or city just to keep tabs incase a lien is placed on the property. You may possibly never know until you wanted to sell your house and find out that someone put a lien on it.

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I'm aware, and this is something I'm definitely trying to avoid. The contract states he's supposed to provide a lien release for all portions paid, which is 50% so far and probably covers materials. I haven't received anything from him. I think I'd prevail in court giving the outright fraud and the fact that he's in violation of the terms, but hopefully it doesn't come to that. Once I get a sense of actual damages, I might get an attorney to draft a 93A letter (consumer protection in MA) that demands a full lien release.

Ampster said:

And the same thing applies to suppliers. In California a Preliminary Notice is required to protect that lien but the code may be different in Mass. Did the supplier deliver the equipment to your home and/or did you see who that supplier was, or did you get any form of Preliminary Notice from a supplier?

If this installer does try to collect you can go to the Contractors Licensing Board and file a claim. Be sure to point out his misrepresentation of the permit. I am not an attorney but was the CFO for a material supplier and am familiar with the practical issues.

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No subcontractors were involved luckily. From Google reviews (that appeared after I signed with him of course) I learned that he didn't pay his contractors. That's also likely why his electrician bailed, and he messed up the permits.
The supplier did deliver to my house, two times for racking and panels. No idea who they were, I wasn't home. Never saw a Preliminary Notice either. The last delivery was 7 months ago. Hopefully that means I'm in the clear there.

Ampster said:

I understand the concept. Can you explain in more detail for the benefit of the OP? How much derating is required for four conductors in 3/4 conduit? I guessed it was 3/4 inch conduit by comparing it to the Flange nut on the IQ7 cable next to it but the OP can verify.

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Conduit is 1 inch.

schmism said:

1 - don't know what the reg is on that
2 -as long as the top of the flashing is under a shingle tab (which the photo looks to be) it should be fine.
3- that looks like a wire was cut short. To fix that I'd pull the wire out, re-pull new 1' longer wire and tuck the MC4 connector under the pannel and route the loose wire back through the conduit.
4 -I would expect this is flagged by the inspector yes. You can splice the conduit with a conduit butt connector which doesn't require you to pull the existing conduit off the roof, just add to it. Yes you will have to pull the wire out of it to fix that
5 - you need to change the box type to a LB style box at that location that has space for the wire nuts. (or just pull the wire all the way through without the wire nut junction.)
6 - conduit requirement for the panel is off-in-the-weeds thing in the code. Just ask your inspector, he should be willing to work with you.

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Very useful info, much appreciated!

Supervstech said:

I'm sorry to say, but ALL the #10 needs to be replaced with #8
All the conduit should be seamless. Zero tape, or random wires exiting without a box and gland...

Handymen shouldn't touch peoples homes...

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Let me make sure I understand this rule correctly. NEC 2020 states that AWG 10 rated for 90°C gives me 40A to work with. There are 4 cables in the conduit, so according to 310.15(C)(1) I have to reduce the rated amps by 0.8, or 32A. So far so good. But now we get into ambient temperatures since it's a roof-mounted system. Boston has an ambient temperature rating of 32°C, slightly above the NEC limit of 30°C. If the conduit is less than 7/8" above the roof, I have to add 33°C according to 310.15(B)(2). The new max A then becomes "32A*sqrt((90-65)/(90-32))" = 21A.

That's still within the limit, though barely. Is there an additional safety margin to take into account? If the conduit is more than 7/8" above the roof then the temperature adder is void, so I'm back at 32A. I haven't measured the height of the conduit from the rooftop, but if that's an issue hopefully I can find a shim to raise it a little.