Er, "home computers" were still well in the future when I was in high school. I didn't know anyone had used silver to interface with a heatsink, my first computer was a Sinclair kit, I even had a 64k memory expansion. I will never forget the comment my father made when I gave him his first PC, "640 kilobytes of memory? We process 3 banks and the city payroll on 8k".Wait wait are people actually talking about using silver on bus bars like we did on heat sinks for computers back in high school???
So what did you end up using?What are you guys using in between, any grease like this?
It sounds ideal...
Conductive Carbon Grease
Lubricates and improves electrical and thermal connections between sliding surfaces, while providing protection from moisture & corrosion. Excellent for use on switches and EMI shielding applications. Industrial, trade and hobby use.
• Prevents normally closed switches from corroding in place.
• Reduces make-break arcing and pitting of switch contact surfaces
• Improves the connection between irregular or pitted contact surfaces
• Reduces EMI noise by maintaining a continuous path between conductive surfaces
• Thermally stable up to 200°C
• Density: 2.7 g/ml
• Electrical resistivity: 117 ohms/cm
View attachment 37317
INOX-MX3 lubricant (LANOX-MX4 for the more extreme climatic condition areas) stops electrolysis between aluminium and stainless steel, keeps fibre optic cable connectors corrosion and moisture free. https://www.inoxmx.com/applications-and-uses/electronics/
As per many recommendations, I did order the NO-OX-ID grease from Amazon US. I have used this between terminals and busbars where I had issues before and so far ? all good... never had to touch these connections again.So what did you end up using?
Like you I am in Australia where ox-gard and noalox are neither cheap or easy to get.
If, as some say the mission is to keep air and moisture out of the connection I wonder why lanolin couldn't be used
I have several litres of lanox mx4 onboard, have used it for years on electrical connections with no noticed issues .
Thanks for the quick replyAs per many recommendations, I did order the NO-OX-ID grease from Amazon US. I have used this between terminals and busbars where I had issues before and so far ? all good... never had to touch these connections again.
Yup.Sorry for resurrecting this thread... but I still have some doubts related to it:
If I use these cells (EVE LF280k with double terminals) with an alu busbar - with the double of the original busbar size (don't know which alu type, tbh) - there should be no worries with dissimilar metals corrosion, right?
All I should worry about is proper cleaning of alu terminal and busbar due to natural oxidation and I'm good to go...
Or I'm totally missing it?
Thanks in advance!
Aluminum will oxidize quickly and invisibly, right after cleaning I would recommend applying an anti-oxidant compound.Sorry for resurrecting this thread... but I still have some doubts related to it:
If I use these cells (EVE LF280k with double terminals) with an alu busbar - with the double of the original busbar size (don't know which alu type, tbh) - there should be no worries with dissimilar metals corrosion, right?
All I should worry about is proper cleaning of alu terminal and busbar due to natural oxidation and I'm good to go...
Or I'm totally missing it?
Thanks in advance!
If you have welded on terminals then by default, what is welded on is aluminum. Aluminum busbars are still what should be used.If you have welded-on terminals, then aluminum busbars serve no purpose since you aren't making direct contact with the battery terminal.
Thanks for the lengthy reply.I have aluminum busbars as well and use the nickel-plated copper ones provided by the vendor because they have worked fine, and were free. If you have welded-on terminals, then aluminum busbars serve no purpose since you aren't making direct contact with the battery terminal.
With those cells, you should use the busbars provided by EVE.Thanks for the lengthy reply.
Given the cells I'm waiting for, It seems that using an alu busbar is preferable. Do you agree?
Thanks for your opinion!
Thanks!With those cells, you should use the busbars provided by EVE.
Those terminals are the one's EVE welds in the factory, and to the best of my knowledge are only used by EVE for cells that passed all tests in the factory (that may or may not be true, I've just seen the terminals only used by EVE). So you can be relatively sure you are getting quality cells. It also means the pattern is new and relatively rare, so there are not a lot of options other than the official busbars. I personally like the terminals, others don't, it's subjective. Nothing amazing, just new and different. I'm sure you can use others, but I haven't seen them offered (but I haven't been looking either). Those I know are made of aluminum, the others that vendors weld on I've not checked, I know the stud is stainless steel on mine, not sure what the actual contact area is (but again, different from what you ordered).Thanks!
Dammm I was not expecting that...
Trying to learn as much as possible... why do you think that? "strange" form factor? other?
Regards
Thank you very much for your detailed response!Those terminals are the one's EVE welds in the factory, and to the best of my knowledge are only used by EVE for cells that passed all tests in the factory (that may or may not be true, I've just seen the terminals only used by EVE). So you can be relatively sure you are getting quality cells. It also means the pattern is new and relatively rare, so there are not a lot of options other than the official busbars. I personally like the terminals, others don't, it's subjective. Nothing amazing, just new and different. I'm sure you can use others, but I haven't seen them offered (but I haven't been looking either). Those I know are made of aluminum, the others that vendors weld on I've not checked, I know the stud is stainless steel on mine, not sure what the actual contact area is (but again, different from what you ordered).
PSA: *never* use silicone around electrical connections - if MIL-SPEC is to be believed. It is a very effective insulator and will mess up connections like switches, etc.My 2 cents on the topic - oxidation protection is much more important than conductivity. Based on that it doesn't matter much if the lube is going to be silver, carbon, gold, zinc, or whatever. Average silicone lube will offer adequate protection from oxidation. That's what I'm planning to use. As long as it is not getting totally melted at 60-80C.