New Lux Power LXP-LB-US 12k / GSL-H-12KLV-US with 200A AC Passthrough Current (US Market)

I got mine late on Wednesday afternoon… I didn’t think the inverter would be that big and heavy its about 100lbs… I got it installed temporarily that night took me till 11pm. I crimped the battery cables and the input/out wires.. but it was worth it after i turned it On. the lugs for the ac input/output is big, its really made for +200 amp.. i was a little bit confused with the program but after reading the manual i got working what I wanted to do it. My first choice was 5k sol-ark inverter but it was expensive to ship here, so I decided to go alibaba and i was intended to buy a Deye inverter but all the sellers said the same thing that they can’t sell it to USA. I meet Jim from GSL and sent me the specs and manual, by readings it, it’s almost like sol-ark… so I asked him if he can ship it to Hawaii and he told me he can get the inverter here in 5-7 days if i pay it now because their holiday will take about a week till they go back to work again, it was kind a fishy but i said what the heck, if I don’t get it then i just file a refund from paypal… Even do it was their holiday week Jim kept in touch with me until now…if you ever going to buy speak with Jim and don’t forget about custom tax it was a bit expensive about $316 for me (custom hold it for two days)… i have some pictures but not that great…

Very impressive!!! Thanks for sharing your first impressions. I feel much more secure now about making my first direct purchase from China. I was very concern on how to pay for it and was really glad to read that you were able to use Paypal.

I did get a chance to read the manual for the GSL-H-12KLV-US. I noticed some things that surprised me, but nothing so far that deters me from buying the inverter.

There are (6) 1-line drawings for on grid, off grid, ups, AC coupling an existing systems, peak shaving, etc. None of the 1-line drawings are for a whole house backup, but instead are based on a critical load panel or ups. The main house panel is shown in the diagrams as on the grid or off grid, but never connected directly to the inverter. On page 7 there is a table that list several times whole house backup, but the drawing on the same page still doesn't show the house main panel connected to the inverter.

On page 7 there is a diagram showing external disconnects for the following: PV breakers (2Px4), Battery breaker, main breaker, load breaker and a generator breaker. The table on the same page shows recommended sizes for the breakers. It is not an all-in-one inverter with internal disconnects as advertised by Sol-Ark 15K, but it is about $5K less expensive.

There are no actual battery requirements nor recommended number or sizes for batteries. There is a wiring diagram showing EPS without batteries. There are several warnings about the batteries needing to be compatible with the GSL inverter.

I'm sure others DIY members more knowledgeable than me can provide a better review of the manual. Again based on what I think that I know, I would prefer to buy the GSL inverter with 10KWH 200A batteries vs only the Sol-Ark 15K for the same money.

Not Aerosmith said:

I did get a chance to read the manual for the GSL-H-12KLV-US. I noticed some things that surprised me, but nothing so far that deters me from buying the inverter.

There are (6) 1-line drawings for on grid, off grid, ups, AC coupling an existing systems, peak shaving, etc. None of the 1-line drawings are for a whole house backup, but instead are based on a critical load panel or ups. The main house panel is shown in the diagrams as on the grid or off grid, but never connected directly to the inverter. On page 7 in the table it mentions several times about whole house backup, but the drawing on the same page still doesn't show the house main panel connected to the inverter.

On page 7 there is a diagram showing external disconnects for the following: PV breakers (2Px4), Battery breaker, main breaker, load breaker and a generator breaker. Table on the same page shows recommended sizes for the breakers. It is not an all-in-one inverter with internal disconnects as advertised by Sol-Ark 15K, but it is about $5K less expensive.

There are no actual battery requirements nor recommended number or sizes for batteries. There is a wiring diagram showing EPS without batteries. There are several warnings about the batteries needing to be compatible with the GSL inverter.

I'm sure others DIY members more knowledgeable than me can provide a better review of the manual. Again based on what I think that I know, I would prefer to buy the GSL inverter with 10KWH 200A batteries vs only the Sol-Ark 15K for the same money.

Click to expand...

I’m happy to have a look if you provide a link to the manual, but this diagram shows the existence of an AC output to Critical Loads which necessitates the presence of an internal transfer relay:

Sorry, file extension won’t allow upload. I’m talking about the first image entitled ‘Hybrid Basic Architecture’ here:

fafrd said:

I’m happy to have a look if you provide a link to the manual, but this diagram shows the existence of an AC output to Critical Loads which necessitates the presence of an internal transfer relay:

Sorry, file extension won’t allow upload. I’m talking about the first image entitled ‘Hybrid Basic Architecture’ here:

Liniotech 3kW 5000W MPPT All-in-One Solar Inverter Charge Controller 48HV 500VDC 80A Stackable 12 units

Welcome to LINIOTECH! We provide customized solutions and products for lithium batteries, energy storage lithium batteries, and lithium battery power systems.

liniotech.com

Click to expand...

adamantium provided the links for the GSL-H-12KLV-US when he started this thread, which is what I reviewed. The manual describes an internal relay rated at 200A for bypass from grid to UPS.​

My review wasn't about the Liniotech LIN-H-12KLV-US, which is probably a clone of the GSL Energy hybrid inverter. I have not found a link for Liniotech manual. I looked at your attachment about the Liniotech hybrid inverter and the advertised features are the same as the GSL Energy hybrid inverter. I suspect that Lux Power makes the same hybrid inverters for both companies.

Not Aerosmith said:

adamantium provided the links for the GSL-H-12KLV-US when he started this thread, which is what I reviewed. The manual describes an internal relay rated at 200A for bypass from grid to UPS.​

My review wasn't about the Liniotech LIN-H-12KLV-US, which is probably a clone of the GSL Energy hybrid inverter. I have not found a link for Liniotech manual. I looked at your attachment about the Liniotech hybrid inverter and the advertised features are the same as the GSL Energy hybrid inverter. I suspect that Lux Power makes the same hybrid inverters for both companies.

Click to expand...

I’m confused them. If you have confirmed that both hybrid inverters include a pair of internal transfer switches (for 240/120VAC split-phase), what is your concern exactly???

I reviewed the manual and FHAs seems like a very capable hybrid. Is there any capability supported by Solark / Deye that you believe this unit lacks?

My biggest gripe is the string voltage but if I’m going to have to switch from a 24VDC to a 48VDC anyway to get the hybrid inverter I’m seeking,moving from a 1SnP array to an nS1P array is not the end of the world…

GRV0423 said:

It was $3200

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At $3200 +$316 on duty, this inverter is 9% more than a Schneider Conext XW Pro: https://signaturesolar.com/schneider-conext-xw-pro-6-8kw-inverter-charger-48v-120-240v/

So is the attraction the higher output power? Or is it the integrated SCC?

I already have a standalone SCC and don’t need more than 3kW of hybrid power so I’m not sure I see any reason to prefer this GSL inverter over the XW Pro…

fafrd said:

I’m confused them. If you have confirmed that both hybrid inverters include a pair of internal transfer switches (for 240/120VAC split-phase), what is your concern exactly???

Click to expand...

I'm sorry that I confused you. I didn't know that I expressed a concern. I simply stated some things that surprised me. I was only trying to do my due diligence before I buy something.

All the diagrams on page 3 and page 7 showed the main house panel either connected on grid or off grid, but not connected directly to the hybrid inverter. However, it is clear on page 7 in the table that there is an internal 200A relay that can function as a whole house backup. Whole house backup is a major new feature and it is surprising that it is not illustrated anywhere.

No information about battery requirements to use as an UPS or to parallel multiple units. Seem strange or surprising to me, since MPP Solar requires (2) 10KWH 200 amp batteries for each inverter in parallel.

I referenced my sources, because I remember very recently that another DIY member was crucified for making statements without documentation. I really believe in buyer beware, so I do investigate before I buy. I do listen to others and I try to draw my own conclusions from as many sources as possible.

So far, the GSL Energy hybrid inverter seems to be my best option.

Not Aerosmith said:

I'm sorry that I confused you. I didn't know that I expressed a concern. I simply stated some things that surprised me. I was only trying to do my due diligence before I buy something.

All the diagrams on page 3 and page 7 showed the main house panel either connected on grid or off grid, but not connected directly to the hybrid inverter. However, it is clear on page 7 in the table that there is an internal 200A relay that can function as a whole house backup. This is a major new feature and it is surprising that it is not illustrated anywhere.

No information about battery requirements to use as an UPS or to parallel multiple units. Seem strange or surprising to me, since MPP Solar requires (2) 10KWH 200 amp batteries for each inverter in parallel.

I referenced my sources, because I remember very recently that another DIY member was crucified for making statements without documentation. I really believe in buyer beware, so I do investigate before I buy. I do listen to others and I try to draw my own conclusions from as many sources as possible.

So far, the GSL Energy hybrid inverter seems to be my best option.

Click to expand...

Yes, if you want whole-house UPS, you need a meaty-enough inverter to handle worst-case whole-house loads (including startup surge).

That requires wiring the hybrid inverter in between the main breaker and main panel (or utility meter and main breaker or main panel and critical loads panel with virtually all circuits/breakers moved from main panel to Critical Loads Panel).

While house UPS is not a priority for me while load offset and minimizing any AC rewiring are.

So I’m primarily interested in what a hybrid inverter can supply out through it’s AC input monitored / limited by external CT sensors.

These GSL hybrids seem to be as capable as Solark hybrids in that respect and they are significantly less expensive, but not less expensive that Schneider’s Conext XW Pro offering (which is rated for less power output, however).

So I’m still mulling my options (but eagerly digesting positive experiences with this new option from GSL ).

GRV0423 said:

I got mine late on Wednesday afternoon… I didn’t think the inverter would be that big and heavy its about 100lbs… I got it installed temporarily that night took me till 11pm. I crimped the battery cables and the input/out wires.. but it was worth it after i turned it On. the lugs for the ac input/output is big, its really made for +200 amp.. i was a little bit confused with the program but after reading the manual i got working what I wanted to do it. My first choice was 5k sol-ark inverter but it was expensive to ship here, so I decided to go alibaba and i was intended to buy a Deye inverter but all the sellers said the same thing that they can’t sell it to USA. I meet Jim from GSL and sent me the specs and manual, by readings it, it’s almost like sol-ark… so I asked him if he can ship it to Hawaii and he told me he can get the inverter here in 5-7 days if i pay it now because their holiday will take about a week till they go back to work again, it was kind a fishy but i said what the heck, if I don’t get it then i just file a refund from paypal… Even do it was their holiday week Jim kept in touch with me until now…if you ever going to buy speak with Jim and don’t forget about custom tax it was a bit expensive about $316 for me (custom hold it for two days)… i have some pictures but not that great…

Click to expand...

That's super exciting! Thanks for posting pictures. Mine is all paid for and on the way as soon as they get back from holiday. I've been talking a lot with Hank, the NA sales lead, along with a couple interjections from Jim.

This is a really nice option for me I hope. I've also ordered a pair of 10kwh batteries, but they have to come by slow boat so won't be here for a while, so I'll be initially getting inspected on AGMs connected to the inverter. One of the big draws for me is that it has a high capacity passthrough circuit, so I don't need an automatic transfer switch (I may need to show I can fully power my 100A panel in my off-grid house before I can get an occupancy certificate, so the ability to rent a stupidly large generator for a couple days and not need to re-wire is important.) And it comes with a bunch of the breakers and such that have to be added separately in other systems. (you may have read on another thread my inspection problems surrounding AFCI on another all-in-one inverter.)

One thing in the pictures that puzzles me is that there is only one set of battery terminals. I had been told that two 10kwh batteries could be connected directly to the unit, but that more would require a combiner box. Is it code-compliant to just put two batteries sharing the same connection studs?

derekja said:

That's super exciting! Thanks for posting pictures. Mine is all paid for and on the way as soon as they get back from holiday. I've been talking a lot with Hank, the NA sales lead, along with a couple interjections from Jim.

This is a really nice option for me I hope. I've also ordered a pair of 10kwh batteries, but they have to come by slow boat so won't be here for a while, so I'll be initially getting inspected on AGMs connected to the inverter. One of the big draws for me is that it has a high capacity passthrough circuit, so I don't need an automatic transfer switch (I may need to show I can fully power my 100A panel in my off-grid house before I can get an occupancy certificate, so the ability to rent a stupidly large generator for a couple days and not need to re-wire is important.) And it comes with a bunch of the breakers and such that have to be added separately in other systems. (you may have read on another thread my inspection problems surrounding AFCI on another all-in-one inverter.)

One thing in the pictures that puzzles me is that there is only one set of battery terminals. I had been told that two 10kwh batteries could be connected directly to the unit, but that more would require a combiner box. Is it code-compliant to just put two batteries sharing the same connection studs?

Click to expand...

I believe had yes, as long as they are sized appropriately to take maximum possible current (+56%).

fafrd said:

These GSL hybrids seem to be as capable as Solark hybrids in that respect and they are significantly less expensive, but not less expensive that Schneider’s Conext XW Pro offering (which is rated for less power output, however).

Click to expand...

I'm still trying to figure out what all pieces Schneider stuff needs. Seems to have a bunch of add on stuff, like Victron.

Not Aerosmith said:

I did get a chance to read the manual for the GSL-H-12KLV-US. I noticed some things that surprised me, but nothing so far that deters me from buying the inverter.

There are (6) 1-line drawings for on grid, off grid, ups, AC coupling an existing systems, peak shaving, etc. None of the 1-line drawings are for a whole house backup, but instead are based on a critical load panel or ups. The main house panel is shown in the diagrams as on the grid or off grid, but never connected directly to the inverter. On page 7 there is a table that list several times whole house backup, but the drawing on the same page still doesn't show the house main panel connected to the inverter.

On page 7 there is a diagram showing external disconnects for the following: PV breakers (2Px4), Battery breaker, main breaker, load breaker and a generator breaker. The table on the same page shows recommended sizes for the breakers. It is not an all-in-one inverter with internal disconnects as advertised by Sol-Ark 15K, but it is about $5K less expensive.

There are no actual battery requirements nor recommended number or sizes for batteries. There is a wiring diagram showing EPS without batteries. There are several warnings about the batteries needing to be compatible with the GSL inverter.

I'm sure others DIY members more knowledgeable than me can provide a better review of the manual. Again based on what I think that I know, I would prefer to buy the GSL inverter with 10KWH 200A batteries vs only the Sol-Ark 15K for the same money.

Click to expand...

If you want a whole home back up see page 16 use the Generator whole home back up.. I would recommend to install a transfer switch. So it will be able to run the house when the inverter is in service or ect…

the reason why I purchased this because I needed more battery capacity for our current solar system 17.2 kw with 3 tesla powerwall… at the moment we are pushing back to the grid about 25-30kw which is $0.10/kw if we sell back to the grid but when we pull from the grid its about $0.40-.45. I asked a quote for 2 more Tesla battery but its about 30k more.. so I decided to get an inverter that can push and pull from the grid while my existing solar system is producing during the day.. i already ordered my DIY battery 16 302ah LifeP04 from china it won’t be here until end of November And also 16 280ah from mainland which will be here soon.. it will be about 30kw battery capacity… as for now im using the 8 trojan 6v solar battery from my DIY offgrid old solar system. so far so good the inverter is doing what I intend to do.

cs1234 said:

I'm still trying to figure out what all pieces Schneider stuff needs. Seems to have a bunch of add on stuff, like Victron.

Click to expand...

Solark is an all-in-one, Victron and Schneider Conext are not. So with either a Schneider or a Victron, you will need to add an SCC if you are planning to charge your battery using a SC-coupled array…

Is that what you are referring to?

fafrd said:

Solark is an all-in-one, Victron and Schneider Conext are not. So with either a Schneider or a Victron, you will need to add an SCC if you are planning to charge your battery using a SC-coupled array…

Is that what you are referring to?

Click to expand...

No, Victron has things like Cerbo-GX and various cables and adapters needed to program them. I believe Schneider does too, those are the pieces I'm still looking into.. all the little communication pieces. They add up $$

cs1234 said:

No, Victron has things like Cerbo-GX and various cables and adapters needed to program them. I believe Schneider does too, those are the pieces I'm still looking into.. all the little communication pieces. They add up $$

Click to expand...

I hear ‘ya.

For Victron, I understand that you need a Cerbo-GX to enable the Multiplus II’s ESS capability.

For Schneider, I’ll be interested in what you learn. From what I have understood, the most advanced Conext XW Pro installation is being controlled by a RasberryPi-based DIY energy meter, so my sense was that Victron offers more pre-canned capability than Schneider that is easier to enable (even though that may cost more in $$$).

What is the use-case you are interested in?

fafrd said:

Yes, if you want whole-house UPS, you need a meaty-enough inverter to handle worst-case whole-house loads (including startup surge).

That requires wiring the hybrid inverter in between the main breaker and main panel (or utility meter and main breaker or main panel and critical loads panel with virtually all circuits/breakers moved from main panel to Critical Loads Panel).

While house UPS is not a priority for me while load offset and minimizing any AC rewiring are.

So I’m primarily interested in what a hybrid inverter can supply out through it’s AC input monitored / limited by external CT sensors.

These GSL hybrids seem to be as capable as Solark hybrids in that respect and they are significantly less expensive, but not less expensive that Schneider’s Conext XW Pro offering (which is rated for less power output, however).

So I’m still mulling my options (but eagerly digesting positive experiences with this new option from GSL ).

Click to expand...

I have already reviewed the Schneider XW Pro. My conclusion was that you needed almost half dozen Schneider components for it to work, which makes Schneider less capacity and more expensive than the Sol-Ark 15K. Look at the Schneider kits offered by Signature Solar on their website at https://signaturesolar.com/kits-bundles/schneider-systems/ Their kits have the major components for whatever system you need, but Schneider also requires that you buy their gateway and recommend their battery monitor in addition to the components in these kits. One Sol-Ark 15K package seems like an easier DIY installation than about 6 Schneider components. If you listen to YouTube videos on Schneider, it seems that a couple of years ago that they had a very bad reputation for support. Supposedly, they have now added support personnel and making an effort to provide good support. For me, I decided Schneider was not my best option.

I also looked at MPP Solar and SunGold Power 6 KW hybrid inverters, which are both identical clones. Since you are interested primarily in the AC input, you only need to look at the breaker size that the owner manual recommends between the hybrid inverter and the grid. It is only a 40A breaker. Of course, you can parallel inverters to increase the 40A to whatever you need. One inverter can run battery-less, but inverters in parallel require batteries making the cost even more expensive. For me, I decided these inverters were not a good option.

However, I still have 2 options. Unfortunately, both are new designs, which always have growing pains with issues and problems not foreseen in the design. I need to chose between a Lux Power clone or a Deye clone, which are both made in China. At this point $3200 vs $8250 seems to be the deciding factor.

​

GRV0423 said:

If you want a whole home back up see page 16 use the Generator whole home back up.. I would recommend to install a transfer switch. So it will be able to run the house when the inverter is in service or ect…
View attachment 115476
the reason why I purchased this because I needed more battery capacity for our current solar system 17.2 kw with 3 tesla powerwall… at the moment we are pushing back to the grid about 25-30kw which is $0.10/kw if we sell back to the grid but when we pull from the grid its about $0.40-.45. I asked a quote for 2 more Tesla battery but its about 30k more.. so I decided to get an inverter that can push and pull from the grid while my existing solar system is producing during the day.. i already ordered my DIY battery 16 302ah LifeP04 from china it won’t be here until end of November And also 16 280ah from mainland which will be here soon.. it will be about 30kw battery capacity… as for now im using the 8 trojan 6v solar battery from my DIY offgrid old solar system. so far so good the inverter is doing what I intend to do.

Click to expand...

I missed it, because the label is backup panel not main house panel. Backup panel is usually just another name for critical load panel. However, since you opened my eyes to really look, the backup panel is the only house panel in the diagram. By process of elimination, the backup panel must be the main house panel. I guess their logic is that a whole house backup system changes the main house panel name into simply a backup panel.

Thank you, again for sharing!!!

fafrd said:

I’m confused them. If you have confirmed that both hybrid inverters include a pair of internal transfer switches (for 240/120VAC split-phase), what is your concern exactly???

I reviewed the manual and FHAs seems like a very capable hybrid. Is there any capability supported by Solark / Deye that you believe this unit lacks?

My biggest gripe is the string voltage but if I’m going to have to switch from a 24VDC to a 48VDC anyway to get the hybrid inverter I’m seeking,moving from a 1SnP array to an nS1P array is not the end of the world…

Click to expand...

The string voltage is an issue for me too with the Sol-Ark 15K inverter. My existing strings exceeded the 425 DCV operating voltage limits by Sol-Ark 15K inverter. The existing operating voltage for the strings are not an issue with the GSL Energy inverter, so that was another factor in my decision.

However, I had figured out that I could delete 2 solar panels and run 4 strings with 425 DVC to the Sol-Ark inverter. I would then add the 2 extra solar panels to my remaining Fronius inverter that is rated 80-1000 DVC and then AC couple the inverter to the generator connection.

Sol-Ark has taken a huge advantage of the lack of competition, since they are the only American distributors for the Deye clones. I basically needing to decide between two clone made in China. Viewing from this perspective, price seems to be the deciding factor.

Not Aerosmith said:

The string voltage is an issue for me too with the Sol-Ark 15K inverter. My existing strings exceeded the 425 DCV operating voltage limits by Sol-Ark 15K inverter. The existing operating voltage for the strings are not an issue with the GSL Energy inverter, so that was another factor in my decision.

However, I had figured out that I could delete 2 solar panels and run 4 strings with 425 DVC to the Sol-Ark inverter. I would then add the 2 extra solar panels to my remaining Fronius inverter that is rated 80-1000 DVC and then AC couple the inverter to the generator connection.

Sol-Ark has taken a huge advantage of the lack of competition, since they are the only American distributors for the Deye clones. I basically needing to decide between two clone made in China. Viewing from this perspective, price seems to be the deciding factor.

Click to expand...

Jumping back a few comments to breakers. I believe this is closer to the Sol-Ark in terms of integral breakers. Please correct me if I am wrong, though. The DC PV connections in the picture appear to be fused (although not a resettable breaker) and I did get an answer from Hank on the battery and PV breakers:

"
Yes ,the battery breaker is integral .pls refer to below picture .

Both battery and inverter has DC breaker on the side
"
and a bit earlier

"PV breaker is integral to the unit"

(where battery refers to their 10kwh powerwall style battery which I have purchased two of)

I also have been struggling a bit to understand how to set up the AC breaker in my situation, but think I now understand. I will be using the inverter off grid so will be inputting the generator into the grid inputs. For the moment I will leave the generator terminals unused. The manual says in the instance that the generator passthrough will be used to supply a 200A AC output breaker per the table on P.7. I was concerned that this would leave the inverter unprotected in the case of there not being generator power, but in the manual on P.34 it looks like I am not going to see a catastrophic failure if too much power is drawn in offgrid mode, but rather an error shutdown with the "offgrid overload" error. Since my generator has its own breaker I think that this means that I need only supply the AC output breaker in my loads panel. (which in my case I will actually set to a 125A breaker since that will feed my 100A main house panel and I need to comply with the 120% rule.)