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Solark 15k DIY Grid Tie Design with 200A disconnect and Manual Bypass - all grounds and neutrals to main

Chickenstick

New Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2021
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14
Happy New Year everyone!

First a note of thanks to everyone here and to our gracious host for all of the shared knowledge and experience - this forum is awesome!

I'm planning my DIY hybrid, whole-house backup grid tie system in preparation for my permitting submission and wonder if some members could critique/comment on my design. Major components include: Sol-Ark 15k Limitless AIO, 200 amp fused-disconnect, 200 amp 2-pole double throw manual bypass transfer switch, a wireway and polaris connectors to keep everything neat, EG4 LifePo batteries in a server rack, Silfab SIL 490 HN panels mounted on both roof and ground.

Neutral and ground connections were a real head scratcher for me! I'm hoping that I accurately followed the good advice from this forum.

Thanks all!
 

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Following-this setup is a lot like what my DIY is going to end up being.

Can I ask how you made this drawing? Thanks in advance!

The first thing that caught my eye was your use of flex conduit-what size are you planning to run for the 2-4/0 cables? Will this system be inspected and permitted?
 
One thing I noticed in your drawing, is that you only have one pair of +/- wires coming from your batteries. The Sol-Ark 15k has two sets of DC breakers each 200a. If you want to get the full power from your batteries, you will need to merge the two wires from your batteries at some point before entering the Sol-Ark and run 2(x) +/- wires to each of the two 200a breakers in the Sol-Ark. A simple way to do that would be to use a bus bar, or better yet use a Victron Power Lynx.

In the picture below see how the two wires from each EG4 come into the Lynx then get duplicated going into the Sol-Ark.

Casa RCV.jpg
 
One thing I noticed in your drawing, is that you only have one pair of +/- wires coming from your batteries. The Sol-Ark 15k has two sets of DC breakers each 200a. If you want to get the full power from your batteries, you will need to merge the two wires from your batteries at some point before entering the Sol-Ark and run 2(x) +/- wires to each of the two 200a breakers in the Sol-Ark. A simple way to do that would be to use a bus bar, or better yet use a Victron Power Lynx.

In the picture below see how the two wires from each EG4 come into the Lynx then get duplicated going into the Sol-Ark.

View attachment 131012
I like the Victron Power lynx setup. But another solution is to run a jumper in Sol-Ark 15 K for the battery connections.
 
I haven't personally seen the size of the breaker lugs but having (2x) 2/0 AWG wire in there probably won't fit, so however, your run your jumper, unless you use smaller wire it probably won't fit under the lugs on the jumper source. It's also my understanding that if the jumpers extend the distance to the breakers you'll potentially have an uneven balance of energy flowing more consistently through the shortest cable.

I had also considered using a bus bar, but considering the cost of a nice bus bar vs a Victron power lynx which is already a really nice bus bar with the ability to fuse each input, I figured it's the better option. The Lynx also, like a bus bar lets you have more battery racks, but the fusing would have to be external for a bar. Really there is a breaker, but having fuses also gives your double protection and with the ability for each of your batteries to bust out 100a it's added security.


I didn't see a ground from your generator tied to the common ground which according to Sol-Ark's 15K manual page 9 should also be grounded.
https://www.sol-ark.com/wp-content/uploads/15K-2P_Manual.pdf

Otherwise, it looks like you've scienced this out man, everything makes sense and it seems like you've got yourself a nice little setup. I will say I added a Shunt in my system as a simple way to do double charge/discharge verification. Keep in mind only the EG4-LL batteries speak BMS language with the Sol-Ark. The regular EG4 batteries, while they have an ethernet port, it's my understanding they don't have the software to talk Sol-Ark.
 
I haven't personally seen the size of the breaker lugs but having (2x) 2/0 AWG wire in there probably won't fit, so however, your run your jumper, unless you use smaller wire it probably won't fit under the lugs on the jumper source. It's also my understanding that if the jumpers extend the distance to the breakers you'll potentially have an uneven balance of energy flowing more consistently through the shortest cable.

I had also considered using a bus bar, but considering the cost of a nice bus bar vs a Victron power lynx which is already a really nice bus bar with the ability to fuse each input, I figured it's the better option. The Lynx also, like a bus bar lets you have more battery racks, but the fusing would have to be external for a bar. Really there is a breaker, but having fuses also gives your double protection and with the ability for each of your batteries to bust out 100a it's added security.


I didn't see a ground from your generator tied to the common ground which according to Sol-Ark's 15K manual page 9 should also be grounded.
https://www.sol-ark.com/wp-content/uploads/15K-2P_Manual.pdf

Otherwise, it looks like you've scienced this out man, everything makes sense and it seems like you've got yourself a nice little setup. I will say I added a Shunt in my system as a simple way to do double charge/discharge verification. Keep in mind only the EG4-LL batteries speak BMS language with the Sol-Ark. The regular EG4 batteries, while they have an ethernet port, it's my understanding they don't have the software to talk Sol-Ark.
we are talking very small distance. Both the two + and - terminals join together after the lugs.

Here are two 2/0 lug ring terminals connected to 15K with room to spare, 4/0 should work too:

D4C9DC35-B978-42DF-9B38-43CC43D12128.jpeg
BB504020-C8B6-477A-B271-8F8964CE9302.jpeg
 
One thing I noticed in your drawing, is that you only have one pair of +/- wires coming from your batteries. The Sol-Ark 15k has two sets of DC breakers each 200a. If you want to get the full power from your batteries, you will need to merge the two wires from your batteries at some point before entering the Sol-Ark and run 2(x) +/- wires to each of the two 200a breakers in the Sol-Ark. A simple way to do that would be to use a bus bar, or better yet use a Victron Power Lynx.

In the picture below see how the two wires from each EG4 come into the Lynx then get duplicated going into the Sol-Ark.

View attachment 131012
What program do you use to make these drawings please?
 
Following-this setup is a lot like what my DIY is going to end up being.

Can I ask how you made this drawing? Thanks in advance!

The first thing that caught my eye was your use of flex conduit-what size are you planning to run for the 2-4/0 cables? Will this system be inspected and permitted?
I used powerpoint, then saved the slide as a jpg.
Good point about the flex conduit - I'll probably use the flex conduit between the wireway and the solark and transfer switch. Rigid PVC elsewhere.
Yes, it will be permitted and inspected. Met with the Township guys last week and they explained the process and paperwork.
 
One thing I noticed in your drawing, is that you only have one pair of +/- wires coming from your batteries. The Sol-Ark 15k has two sets of DC breakers each 200a. If you want to get the full power from your batteries, you will need to merge the two wires from your batteries at some point before entering the Sol-Ark and run 2(x) +/- wires to each of the two 200a breakers in the Sol-Ark. A simple way to do that would be to use a bus bar, or better yet use a Victron Power Lynx.

In the picture below see how the two wires from each EG4 come into the Lynx then get duplicated going into the Sol-Ark.

View attachment 131012
Really nice layout.
I only have one bank of six batteries and plan to use a polaris connector to create a jumper to the two solark connections.
I saw a picture where one of the forum members ran 4/0 to one connector, then had a little 2/0 loop jumper to the other connector. I may do that it I can't make the polaris connector fit neatly.
 
I haven't personally seen the size of the breaker lugs but having (2x) 2/0 AWG wire in there probably won't fit, so however, your run your jumper, unless you use smaller wire it probably won't fit under the lugs on the jumper source. It's also my understanding that if the jumpers extend the distance to the breakers you'll potentially have an uneven balance of energy flowing more consistently through the shortest cable.

I had also considered using a bus bar, but considering the cost of a nice bus bar vs a Victron power lynx which is already a really nice bus bar with the ability to fuse each input, I figured it's the better option. The Lynx also, like a bus bar lets you have more battery racks, but the fusing would have to be external for a bar. Really there is a breaker, but having fuses also gives your double protection and with the ability for each of your batteries to bust out 100a it's added security.


I didn't see a ground from your generator tied to the common ground which according to Sol-Ark's 15K manual page 9 should also be grounded.
https://www.sol-ark.com/wp-content/uploads/15K-2P_Manual.pdf

Otherwise, it looks like you've scienced this out man, everything makes sense and it seems like you've got yourself a nice little setup. I will say I added a Shunt in my system as a simple way to do double charge/discharge verification. Keep in mind only the EG4-LL batteries speak BMS language with the Sol-Ark. The regular EG4 batteries, while they have an ethernet port, it's my understanding they don't have the software to talk Sol-Ark.
Thanks, man. I'm running 12/3 armored cable from my generator hook up to the solark. I'll ground the generator to the main ground bus in the wireway. (I added that detail in a new drawing.)
I had a brain fart and just now realized what the Polaris connectors are, you could use those in front of the Sol-Ark to double up the connections. Sorta like the image blow.

View attachment 131088
Yes, just like that. That's what I'm planning to do. single 4/0 in, two 2/0 out to the connections.
 

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It’s Google Drawing, it’s kinda like a free version of Visio.
Microsoft powerpoint. It's like visio and maybe google drawing. I've used powerpoint a lot for work, so it was easier for me to use. I couldn't upload the .ppt file. But, I put it in a zip file, if anyone wants it.
 

Attachments

  • Solar layout2.zip
    61.4 KB · Views: 20
I haven't personally seen the size of the breaker lugs but having (2x) 2/0 AWG wire in there probably won't fit, so however, your run your jumper, unless you use smaller wire it probably won't fit under the lugs on the jumper source. It's also my understanding that if the jumpers extend the distance to the breakers you'll potentially have an uneven balance of energy flowing more consistently through the shortest cable.

I had also considered using a bus bar, but considering the cost of a nice bus bar vs a Victron power lynx which is already a really nice bus bar with the ability to fuse each input, I figured it's the better option. The Lynx also, like a bus bar lets you have more battery racks, but the fusing would have to be external for a bar. Really there is a breaker, but having fuses also gives your double protection and with the ability for each of your batteries to bust out 100a it's added security.


I didn't see a ground from your generator tied to the common ground which according to Sol-Ark's 15K manual page 9 should also be grounded.
https://www.sol-ark.com/wp-content/uploads/15K-2P_Manual.pdf

Otherwise, it looks like you've scienced this out man, everything makes sense and it seems like you've got yourself a nice little setup. I will say I added a Shunt in my system as a simple way to do double charge/discharge verification. Keep in mind only the EG4-LL batteries speak BMS language with the Sol-Ark. The regular EG4 batteries, while they have an ethernet port, it's my understanding they don't have the software to talk Sol-Ark.
Thanks for the tip on the regular EG4 batteries. That's what I have. I haven't researched shunts, yet. So, I'll need to puzzle that out.
I figured the solark would talk to the batteries through the ethernet port. Maybe they will at some point if solark gets around to adding the regular EG4 comms to their firmware.
Is there a good discussion of shunts and how to set them up in the forum that you would recommend?
 
Thanks for the tip on the regular EG4 batteries. That's what I have. I haven't researched shunts, yet. So, I'll need to puzzle that out.
I figured the solark would talk to the batteries through the ethernet port. Maybe they will at some point if solark gets around to adding the regular EG4 comms to their firmware.
Is there a good discussion of shunts and how to set them up in the forum that you would recommend?
I have a Victron shunt and Solar Assistant, and Lynx Power Ins for my buss system with my 15k.
 

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Thanks for the tip on the regular EG4 batteries. That's what I have. I haven't researched shunts, yet. So, I'll need to puzzle that out.
I figured the solark would talk to the batteries through the ethernet port. Maybe they will at some point if solark gets around to adding the regular EG4 comms to their firmware.
Is there a good discussion of shunts and how to set them up in the forum that you would recommend?
I’m not aware of a good thread in the forum regarding shunts, but if you’re gonna run those standard EG4 batteries that cannot communicate their state of charge to the Sol-Ark you might want a shunt.

Also it’s not Sol-Ark, it’s EG4 who chose to leave the communication out of the regular EG4 batteries. It’s also possible you could use a single EG4-LL and the rest regular EG4 since and only one battery communicates to the Sol-Ark. UPDATE: My suggestion of using a single LL most likely won’t work, a Comms Hub however would work to aggregate data from the EG4 batteries and pass it along to the Sol-Ark.

For the shunt they are pretty self explanatory, they simply measure the flow of electrons and act like a fuel gauge telling you how much energy is thinks are in your batteries.

Here is a video to kinda tell you what they do.
 
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I used a short flex buss bar to make the connection from my Lynx to the shunt. I could have fabed a solid piece but this was easier. I just covered it with heat shrink for protection.
 
I’m not aware of a good thread in the forum regarding shunts, but if you’re gonna run those standard EG4 batteries that cannot communicate their state of charge to the Sol-Ark you are gonna need a shunt.

Also it’s not Sol-Ark, it’s EG4 who chose to leave the communication out of the regular EG4 batteries. It’s also possible you could use a single EG4-LL and the rest regular EG4 since only one battery communicates to the Sol-Ark.

For the shunt they are pretty self explanatory, they simply measure the flow of electrons and act like a fuel gauge telling you how much energy is thinks are in your batteries.

Here is a video to kinda tell you what they do.
This is great. Thanks for the video link.
 
Happy New Year everyone!

First a note of thanks to everyone here and to our gracious host for all of the shared knowledge and experience - this forum is awesome!

I'm planning my DIY hybrid, whole-house backup grid tie system in preparation for my permitting submission and wonder if some members could critique/comment on my design. Major components include: Sol-Ark 15k Limitless AIO, 200 amp fused-disconnect, 200 amp 2-pole double throw manual bypass transfer switch, a wireway and polaris connectors to keep everything neat, EG4 LifePo batteries in a server rack, Silfab SIL 490 HN panels mounted on both roof and ground.

Neutral and ground connections were a real head scratcher for me! I'm hoping that I accurately followed the good advice from this forum.

Thanks all!
May I ask where you can get those Solar Panels from :)
 

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