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Daly BMS failing under load

ned

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Joined
Jan 19, 2021
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6
Hi all,

I have a lifepo4 4S setup in my car, and it used to work, but after spending the evening prodding wwith a voltmeter and trying to charge it with an external charger, it seems like the BMS may be broken


It can handle a 1 amp load, but if I try put a 6 amp load on it, it dies completely.
I can reset if by shorting the fat wires, and then it will come on and handle a 1 amp load again.

The battery voltages are normal and the battery can handle a 20 amp load from its terminals.

Its the BMS in this pic

1689808408298.png
 
Hey there, thanks for replying. I'm not sure this was the best way to do it, but it did work for a year or so

The 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 refers to the route the negative line goes through to reach the fuse block.

I need the battery for the weekend so I will probaly bypass the bms for now, and charge the battery with 13.6v through the battery terminals, just to make it usable.

1689815678184.png
 
Start simple. I would just remove everything from the circuit and just leave the battery and BMS and see if everything works. Battery > BMS > Load. If it doesn't work then you know it's the BMS. If the issue still persists and all settings are correct on the BMS, then you need a new BMS.
 
Cheers guys, very much appreciate your thoughts!

I dont think its possible to alter any settings on this BMS, it doesnt have bluetooth, I dont think I have any means of communicating with it.

I'll do as you say and remove the shunt from the circuit and see how BMS acts then.
 
Okay so I disconnectd the shunt and wired the BMS directly into the battery negative

And it behaved the same, can handle a 1 amp load but not 6 amps

So ive deleted the BMS for now, and im gonna wire the two negatives you see in red below, together.

1689880612429.png

So now I dont have a BMS.

I still need the battery, so Ill use the battery as-is until I get a new BMS in a few weeks. Any recommedations? Im in Ireland and the Overkill 100 amp model is pretty expensive from here, like 260 euros.

I'm gonna charge the battery at 13.6 volts using a power supply, for the moment. I thik thats safe enough, from what I have read.
 
Similar to the Overkill, from llt power, pay a little extra for airfreight , they accept PayPal.
I get delivery to UK within 7 days.

Advice on your system, the cells and the BMS is the 'battery ', everything else, shunt, breaker is outside 'the 'battery'. So it's B- to the most negative cell, then P- is the negative of the 'battery'. No external stuff connects to B-, everything negative connects to P-.

Screenshot_20230720-205506_Chrome~2.jpg
Mike
 
Last edited:
Thank you! I'm not brilliant at wiring, very much appreciate the pointer regarding the wiring, and the link to the BMS!
 
Okay so I disconnectd the shunt and wired the BMS directly into the battery negative

And it behaved the same, can handle a 1 amp load but not 6 amps

So ive deleted the BMS for now, and im gonna wire the two negatives you see in red below, together.

View attachment 158447

So now I dont have a BMS.

I still need the battery, so Ill use the battery as-is until I get a new BMS in a few weeks. Any recommedations? Im in Ireland and the Overkill 100 amp model is pretty expensive from here, like 260 euros.

I'm gonna charge the battery at 13.6 volts using a power supply, for the moment. I thik thats safe enough, from what I have read.
if its critical you use the battery without a bms. try and get these small dc voltage displays and attach to each cell...so you can see the voltage on each cell.. or if your cells were properlly top balanced///then you wudnt have any issue
 
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