Question

Hello,
I liked Will Prowse’s YouTube videos about mounting an EG4 all in one and a Trophy battery on a Harbor Freight dolly. Could I have a dolly like that 100’ from my solar panels and then run 50’ 120V extension cords from the power strip to my fridge and freezer? Is there a way to disconnect the PV wires from the EG4 on the dolly if I needed to move it?
thanks!

Retired newbie said:

Hello,
I liked Will Prowse’s YouTube videos about mounting an EG4 all in one and a Trophy battery on a Harbor Freight dolly. Could I have a dolly like that 100’ from my solar panels and then run 50’ 120V extension cords from the power strip to my fridge and freezer? Is there a way to disconnect the PV wires from the EG4 on the dolly if I needed to move it?
thanks!

Click to expand...

Sure. You most likely will have a connector on your PV line that can be disconnected.

Ok, I have the tool but it is difficult to separate them. I thought maybe there was some kind of breaker?
It won’t hurt the system to undo them while the sun is out? And reconnect them?

Retired newbie said:

Ok, I have the tool but it is difficult to separate them. I thought maybe there was some kind of breaker?
It won’t hurt the system to undo them while the sun is out? And reconnect them?

Click to expand...

Most mc4 connector kits come with a tool to disconnect them from each other. Or you can use pliers or even your fingers if they’re strong enough.

I’ve bought this kit twice and it works just fine and is a good price:

BougeRV 12 PCS Solar Connectors with Spanners Solar Panel Cable Connectors 6 Pairs Male/Female(10AWG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TX1N5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qW9XUk8k7VWx1

Note: it’s recommended that you use all the same brand of connectors. I recently added two 100w flexible Sunpower panels that come with non-mc4 connectors that are advertised as “mc4 compatible”. One of them recently disconnected on our trailer roof when a low branch snagged the cable. I’m going to replace the panel connectors with the ones I linked above (which are already on the mating extension cables).

How about having the all in one/battery 90’ away From the PV’s?

Retired newbie said:

How about having the all in one/battery 90’ away From the PV’s?

Click to expand...

Depends upon your panel connections. How are they wired together? How many and what setup of series/parallel?

Tomthumb62 said:

Most mc4 connector kits come with a tool to disconnect them from each other. Or you can use pliers or even your fingers if they’re strong enough.

I’ve bought this kit twice and it works just fine and is a good price:

BougeRV 12 PCS Solar Connectors with Spanners Solar Panel Cable Connectors 6 Pairs Male/Female(10AWG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TX1N5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qW9XUk8k7VWx1

Note: it’s recommended that you use all the same brand of connectors. I recently added two 100w flexible Sunpower panels that come with non-mc4 connectors that are advertised as “mc4 compatible”. One of them recently disconnected on our trailer roof when a low branch snagged the cable. I’m going to replace the panel connectors with the ones I lin

Click to expand...

even your fingers if they’re strong enough.

I have used 2 - 3 1/4” nails to release the clips ,,, works surprisingly well

Thanks! Good idea using the nails! I will try that!
To Tom Thumb: there are 8 panels wired in series. My main concern is spending the money to buy the all in one and a big battery only to find that I can’t separate the PV’s 90+ feet from the all in one and battery. As long as I can do that I’m going to pull the trigger.

Retired newbie said:

Thanks! Good idea using the nails! I will try that!
To Tom Thumb: there are 8 panels wired in series. My main concern is spending the money to buy the all in one and a big battery only to find that I can’t separate the PV’s 90+ feet from the all in one and battery. As long as I can do that I’m going to pull the trigger.

Click to expand...

You can get mc4 connectors that have fuse holders built in for just a couple of dollars more.
It’s always nice to add protection to your expensive equipment.

Thanks to everyone for your help!

Retired newbie said:

Thanks! Good idea using the nails! I will try that!
To Tom Thumb: there are 8 panels wired in series. My main concern is spending the money to buy the all in one and a big battery only to find that I can’t separate the PV’s 90+ feet from the all in one and battery. As long as I can do that I’m going to pull the trigger.

Click to expand...

Those nails, or something of that thickness seems perfect “on flat” not the pointy end seems to work very easy for meas before I used my fingers & that was a pain.

There is no problem putting the appliances at the end of extension cords.

You should not consider unplugging an MC4 connector under load, this has a likelihood of causing flash arcing in the connector even at lower voltages.
In the (unrecommended) absence of a PV disconnect switch, and in an emergency, you can fully cover 1 panel with plywood or cardboard in each series string to stop current flow through the string. (With multiple strings a panel in each would need be covered.) That will prevent any flash arcing at the connectors but should still be considered dangerous since there will still be voltage there. The "official" stance everyone will give you on PV wiring is to not touch it unless complete disconnection can be verified. Or, most simply and safely, only disconnect/reconnect in darkness.

MC4 tools are available in multi-packs on Amazon and are the easiest way to disconnect the fittings. I like the ones that have two sets of wedge fingers at the end 90 degrees to each other.

For the array you can buy 100ft of red and black MC4 pre-terminated 10AWG cables for about $150.

If you need recommendations with wiring up the array, post back with what panel specs and model inverter or MPPT you will be using.

EDIT: I saw mention of 8 panels in series. That has potentially an open circuit voltage of 370V. Please do not consider disconnecting this under load. Seriously.

Retired newbie said:

Thanks to everyone for your help!

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I have extra of the plastic tools. PM me your address (if you’re in the lower 48 states) and I can send you one. I like using regular every day things like the next person but having the specialized tool in your toolbox is handy too.

Retired newbie said:

Ok, I have the tool but it is difficult to separate them. I thought maybe there was some kind of breaker?
It won’t hurt the system to undo them while the sun is out? And reconnect them?

Click to expand...

It is a very good idea to have an appropriately rated disconnect between the panels and the controller, and a fuse (or breaker).
It is a very bad idea to disconnect the panels under load. You can get a massive arc.
Turn off the disconnect, then disconnect (or reconnect) the panels.

The system Will Prowse used in his video and I want is EHV-48, 3000W output, 5000W PV input, 500 VOC input.
the Sunpower panels are 230E-WH-D with VMP of 40.5, Current (IMP) of 5.68, VOC of 48.2, ISC of 6.05.

What PV disconnect do you recommend?

Retired newbie said:

What PV disconnect do you recommend?

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I use the IMO disconnects on Signature Solar.
I use the fuse holders and fuses from The Power Store.

Signature Solar now has newer and bigger “All in one” inverter/charge controller/chargers. Is the yellow one Will used still recommended for a Dolly mounted system?