What about the Orion-Tr 48/12-30 (360W)? Scroll down in that spec sheet to see the other options.This is about the best 48->12 dc2dc solution I can find.
Orion-Tr48/12-9 (110W)
It would keep the lights on but not a whole lot more.
What about the Orion-Tr 48/12-30 (360W)? Scroll down in that spec sheet to see the other options.This is about the best 48->12 dc2dc solution I can find.
Orion-Tr48/12-9 (110W)
It would keep the lights on but not a whole lot more.
Much better.What about the Orion-Tr 48/12-30 (360W)? Scroll down in that spec sheet to see the other options.
That should be 30 amps each unless they can be paralleled. I can’t speak to that model but my Victron Orion 24/12/70 can be paralleled.Much better.
60 amps would be sweet drop in replacement.
Says "all models can be paralleled" in the data sheet. Same goes for the IP22.That should be 30 amps each unless they can be paralleled. I can’t speak to that model but my Victron Orion 24/12/70 can be paralleled.
Check your house converter -I was able to add an "IQ-LIFEPO Lithium-Iron Batteries Automatic Charge Controller for DLS Charger" to mine to keep 12V charging for a small 4s Lithium battery that runs my Jacks and misc. 12V items that were already in my 38' 5th wheel.This is about the best 48->12 dc2dc solution I can find.
Orion-Tr48/12-9 (110W)
It would keep the lights on but not a whole lot more.
Victron, Samlex and/or Sterling should address this issue as more RVs go to 48 volts.
Even the iota ac2dc chargers are pretty inefficient compared to a quality dc2dc converter/charger.Check your house converter -I was able to add an "IQ-LIFEPO Lithium-Iron Batteries Automatic Charge Controller for DLS Charger" to mine to keep 12V charging for a small 4s Lithium battery that runs my Jacks and misc. 12V items that were already in my 38' 5th wheel.
This does not bring up an item when I click on it. Can you repost?Check your house converter -I was able to add an "IQ-LIFEPO Lithium-Iron Batteries Automatic Charge Controller for DLS Charger" to mine to keep 12V charging for a small 4s Lithium battery that runs my Jacks and misc. 12V items that were already in my 38' 5th wheel.
Try this:This does not bring up an item when I click on it. Can you repost?
So true... great response.Whip out the measuring tape! A dozen rack mount batteries sounds great until you're sleeping in the kitchen and getting 1mpg dragging it around.![]()
Whoops. Back then it used to be in there. I must've removed it on accident when I changed it a long time ago.GREAT recommendation, the only thing that would make it better is if one of the items in your sig WERE ACTUALLY A LINK!!!!!!!!
View attachment 131473
Thanks.... will check it out, I'm doing a 43' long triple axle Keystone Fuzion.Whoops. Back then it used to be in there. I must've removed it on accident when I changed it a long time ago.
Here is the link:
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The "Meg" Build
Hey Y'all, I figure about time to start posting updates on my solar build. As a couple of you may know, I live full time in an RV with my wife, 2 kids (a 2 y/o and a 3 y/o) and an old Pitbull. The RV is a 2020 Grand Design Momentum 381M, we nick named it "The Meg" short for The Megaladon...diysolarforum.com
So I've decided to add 400W of solar to my rig and have been researching my options. I know I want monocrystalline panels (rigid) and am going to use a Victron MPPT controller. I've looked at several panels and boy is it confusing so I thought I'd throw it out there and ask the group what they're using or what they've found to be a good panel to use? or what they've found after installing current panels as technology changes rapidly. Any input for my system design or recommendations will be greatly appreciated and read! Thank you!!!Power requirements will rule this build. My 35’ fifth wheel uses nearly no power in the cooler months. When the propane heater blower motor comes on, the power requirements go up a lot.
If you want to run a single air conditioner, that is even more power. Will says in one of his videos for an RV air conditioner you need to fill your roof with panels and then have just about as many panels on the ground.
In my signature block, I have two links to Best Solar Panel for RV. I now have what may be enough solar to run a single 15 K BTI rooftop air conditioner 6 hours a day, but am waiting for warmer weather to try it.
I consider solar panels a commodity; basically not much of a difference for the panel for the price for an RV build.So I've decided to add 400W of solar to my rig and have been researching my options. I know I want monocrystalline panels (rigid) and am going to use a Victron MPPT controller. I've looked at several panels and boy is it confusing so I thought I'd throw it out there and ask the group what they're using or what they've found to be a good panel to use? or what they've found after installing current panels as technology changes rapidly. Any input for my system design or recommendations will be greatly appreciated and read! Thank you!!!
That's the big key. Get a ladder and a measuring tape and figure out how many panels you can physically fit as you're going to want ALL of them that can go up there. The bigger the panel the (slightly) higher the energy density and less mounting hardware required. Unless you've got a lot of vents and stuff up there try to avoid the standard 100w panels from everyone and see about just fitting a few larger panels.More important is the size so they can fit on top of the RV without shade. I was on top of my RV with cardboard cutouts to see what fit the best.
Is there a rough calculation for this? Take a 400w panel or (4) 100w panels. I wonder the difference in weight versus power.Larger solar panels typically have a higher energy density, which means they can produce more power per square foot. They also require less mounting hardware, which can save you time and money on installation.
I disagree with this statement for an RV build. I think 100 watt panels are better because they fit in a jigsaw puzzle and more can be put up.Larger solar panels typically have a higher energy density, which means they can produce more power per square foot
. I wonder the difference in weight versus power.
Depends on the model.Then a big hell no to AIO units. The idle consumptions alone is a deal breaker.
Which AIOs ? 24 or 48v?Depends on the model.
There’s quite a few < 30W / current to keep them running.
Okay thanks I’ll do some digging. I love the idea of the AIO units just the idle draw adds up and the ones I’ve found seem to be 50w and up.I don’t specifically recall. I know my 12V MPPSolar is usually ~26W but has been 18W sometimes. There’s a thread here somewhere where people post their idle draws. Fairly consistent on the repeat models / different users iirc.
But things like 6548 varieties are ~80W ish though iirc there are similar capacities with lower consumption.