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Best system for RV

chrisski said:
That should be 30 amps each unless they can be paralleled. I can’t speak to that model but my Victron Orion 24/12/70 can be paralleled.
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Says "all models can be paralleled" in the data sheet. Same goes for the IP22.
But it will cost close to $500 to do so. $400 for the IP22
 
smoothJoey said:
This is about the best 48->12 dc2dc solution I can find.
Orion-Tr48/12-9 (110W)
It would keep the lights on but not a whole lot more.
Victron, Samlex and/or Sterling should address this issue as more RVs go to 48 volts.
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Check your house converter -I was able to add an "IQ-LIFEPO Lithium-Iron Batteries Automatic Charge Controller for DLS Charger" to mine to keep 12V charging for a small 4s Lithium battery that runs my Jacks and misc. 12V items that were already in my 38' 5th wheel.
 
Rednecktek said:
Whip out the measuring tape! A dozen rack mount batteries sounds great until you're sleeping in the kitchen and getting 1mpg dragging it around. :)
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So true... great response.

It's a lot easier to find little 14" x 8" holes in the basement to tuck Battleborns into than essentially using up your entire basement for server rack size stuff, not to mention if you're in BFE and you lose a 12V Battleborn or similar drop in, it's a lot easier to fine a replacement 12V even lead acid to carry you through the freezing weekend till you get a replacement lithium, try finding a temporary replacement server rack battery at Walmart.
 
Lt.Dan said:
Most of the questions you have, I went through when building my RV. You can check out the link in my sig to see all the problems I had to overcome.
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GREAT recommendation, the only thing that would make it better is if one of the items in your sig WERE ACTUALLY A LINK!!!!!!!!

1674671789649.png
 
My build will be the two 12v Battleborns for the 12v needs. I will be selling the Samlex Evo 2224 AIO for the Samlex EVO 4248 split phase inverter. I already have a 24v battery I built from individual cells. I will be buying 8 more to complete one 48v 300ah battery. This will power my 120 needs. I will be mounting a Pioneer 12000btu mini split to replace the two monsters on the roof. After sealing the openings I will use Henry's Kool Koat to decrease the temperature of the roof. Eventually I will add solar which will help with power and keeping the sun from beating on the roof thus keeping the interior cooler. If needed I will build a second battery. Just to give you some ideas
 
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Jennifer said:
GREAT recommendation, the only thing that would make it better is if one of the items in your sig WERE ACTUALLY A LINK!!!!!!!!

View attachment 131473
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Whoops. Back then it used to be in there. I must've removed it on accident when I changed it a long time ago.

Here is the link:
diysolarforum.com

The "Meg" Build

Hey Y'all, I figure about time to start posting updates on my solar build. As a couple of you may know, I live full time in an RV with my wife, 2 kids (a 2 y/o and a 3 y/o) and an old Pitbull. The RV is a 2020 Grand Design Momentum 381M, we nick named it "The Meg" short for The Megaladon...
diysolarforum.com diysolarforum.com
 
Lt.Dan said:
Whoops. Back then it used to be in there. I must've removed it on accident when I changed it a long time ago.

Here is the link:
diysolarforum.com

The "Meg" Build

Hey Y'all, I figure about time to start posting updates on my solar build. As a couple of you may know, I live full time in an RV with my wife, 2 kids (a 2 y/o and a 3 y/o) and an old Pitbull. The RV is a 2020 Grand Design Momentum 381M, we nick named it "The Meg" short for The Megaladon...
diysolarforum.com diysolarforum.com
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Thanks.... will check it out, I'm doing a 43' long triple axle Keystone Fuzion.

PS: Love the white/black, it's gorgeous.

Jen
 
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chrisski said:
Power requirements will rule this build. My 35’ fifth wheel uses nearly no power in the cooler months. When the propane heater blower motor comes on, the power requirements go up a lot.

If you want to run a single air conditioner, that is even more power. Will says in one of his videos for an RV air conditioner you need to fill your roof with panels and then have just about as many panels on the ground.

In my signature block, I have two links to Best Solar Panel for RV. I now have what may be enough solar to run a single 15 K BTI rooftop air conditioner 6 hours a day, but am waiting for warmer weather to try it.
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So I've decided to add 400W of solar to my rig and have been researching my options. I know I want monocrystalline panels (rigid) and am going to use a Victron MPPT controller. I've looked at several panels and boy is it confusing so I thought I'd throw it out there and ask the group what they're using or what they've found to be a good panel to use? or what they've found after installing current panels as technology changes rapidly. Any input for my system design or recommendations will be greatly appreciated and read! Thank you!!!
 
ncowan said:
So I've decided to add 400W of solar to my rig and have been researching my options. I know I want monocrystalline panels (rigid) and am going to use a Victron MPPT controller. I've looked at several panels and boy is it confusing so I thought I'd throw it out there and ask the group what they're using or what they've found to be a good panel to use? or what they've found after installing current panels as technology changes rapidly. Any input for my system design or recommendations will be greatly appreciated and read! Thank you!!!
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I consider solar panels a commodity; basically not much of a difference for the panel for the price for an RV build.

More important is the size so they can fit on top of the RV without shade. I was on top of my RV with cardboard cutouts to see what fit the best.
 
chrisski said:
More important is the size so they can fit on top of the RV without shade. I was on top of my RV with cardboard cutouts to see what fit the best.
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That's the big key. Get a ladder and a measuring tape and figure out how many panels you can physically fit as you're going to want ALL of them that can go up there. The bigger the panel the (slightly) higher the energy density and less mounting hardware required. Unless you've got a lot of vents and stuff up there try to avoid the standard 100w panels from everyone and see about just fitting a few larger panels.
 
It's important to measure your RV roof carefully to determine how many solar panels you can fit. You should also consider the size and weight of the panels when making your decision.
Larger rv solar panel typically have a higher energy density, which means they can produce more power per square foot. They also require less mounting hardware, which can save you time and money on installation.
 
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Mardeclif said:
Larger solar panels typically have a higher energy density, which means they can produce more power per square foot. They also require less mounting hardware, which can save you time and money on installation.
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Is there a rough calculation for this? Take a 400w panel or (4) 100w panels. I wonder the difference in weight versus power.
 
Mardeclif said:
Larger solar panels typically have a higher energy density, which means they can produce more power per square foot
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I disagree with this statement for an RV build. I think 100 watt panels are better because they fit in a jigsaw puzzle and more can be put up.
wopachop said:
. I wonder the difference in weight versus power.
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I see things like 22% efficient versus 18% efficient, which means 20% more efficient, but I doubt you could fit 20% more bigger panels up there.

I also don’t think the mounting hardware weight that much.
——————
My planning number is 180 watts per meter squared production for a 100 watt panel which is about as efficient the area of the panels divided by the wattage rating.
 
I’m going to chime in with our current idea of what is getting installed in our 23’ DIY camper(full time starts next year!). For starters, it’s cheaper and more energy dense to build a battery bank. 48v seems to be the meta. Maybe 24v if our layout doesn’t permit a massive, single battery bank. But 12v isn’t going to be space efficient.

Next, roof Solar isn’t efficient unless you can actively change the panels angle towards the sun. So DIY suit case style 200w (2x 100w) panels appears to be our best option with 600-1000w on roof. So almost 2kw of Solar total if not more.

Then a big hell no to AIO units. The idle consumptions alone is a deal breaker. So probably sticking with using victron components individually to keep idle down and keep up efficiency.

A big power consumer is A/C. 12v or 24v rooftops are a no go for us. Initial cost is already too high compared to an inverter mini split. Plus the mini splits use like 2-300w to maintain temps vs a rooftop using about twice that constantly.

Propane for cooking and water heating. A small diesel tank for a diesel heater for any cooler periods of time.

We’re also installing a small propane/gas generator as a back up. Even if we rarely use it, it’s a nice safety net.

Just our current plans! So hope that helps
 
I don’t specifically recall. I know my 12V MPPSolar is usually ~26W but has been 18W sometimes. There’s a thread here somewhere where people post their idle draws. Fairly consistent on the repeat models / different users iirc.
But things like 6548 varieties are ~80W ish though iirc there are similar capacities with lower consumption.
 
12VoltInstalls said:
I don’t specifically recall. I know my 12V MPPSolar is usually ~26W but has been 18W sometimes. There’s a thread here somewhere where people post their idle draws. Fairly consistent on the repeat models / different users iirc.
But things like 6548 varieties are ~80W ish though iirc there are similar capacities with lower consumption.
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Okay thanks I’ll do some digging. I love the idea of the AIO units just the idle draw adds up and the ones I’ve found seem to be 50w and up.
 
I have an AIO, It runs a load 24/7, so it is never in standby mode, but when it does it idles at 50w and that bumps up to 70-90w .... with my starlink running the battery sees a load between 120-145w. The Starlink uses 35-70w

Sigineer M4830NC 48v 3kw
 
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