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Putting an end on a big wire.

Kind of a mind blown moment.

Do read the comments. ?


There’s some good long debates on this forum about solder vs crimp vs solder+crimp.

Having had some very poor experience trying to solder lugs to 2/0 AWG stuff (entire 5 feet of it was rotten corroded 2 years later), I now only crimp. I’ll leave the soldering to those who have that skill. Crimping is a no brainer easy job with the right tool. No skill necessary, just lots of pressure.

But this guy’s method in the video, using lead fishing weights, looks easier than what I tried doing with solder. He also has a way better torch than what I used (propane torch).
 
I just use a 16 ton hydraulic crimping tool, select the correct die for the size wire and make the crimp on the lug. Results in a cold solders connection and never a problem. Have done all the way up to 4/0 wires.
 
Back in the day I use to wire/build 60 to 120Kva Power supply's that run Crystals pullers and we used welding cable to connect them, always crimped, the only way to ensure you had a connection to handle that level current for a sustained time (took 24h to pull a crystal using gallium arsenide) lots of all-nighters.
 
I looked at the link. Question: Suppose you are working with 2/0-4/0 fine stranded cable. If you only solder these, it seems to me you have to manage to position your lug in a vice or other holder, thoroughly heat the lug so the solder inside is liquid and doesn't spill out, then insert the stripped wire stranded end into the lug, holding it in place until the solder cools and the joint is created. The only bond between the lug and the wire is solder since there is no crimp. What do you use for a heat source on a large lug, ?a torch?

Also, I noticed that these lugs sell for over $7 each in 3/0 size. I purchased copper lugs, UL listed for $1.60 each on amazon. They can be soldered or crimped.

So there are choices to be made, especially when it comes to economics. But I did bookmark the website for future reference.
 
I've never used them, but they also have solder pellets you can drop into your lug, heat up with a torch and stick your wire in. Very similar to fusion lugs except you don't have to spend that much.
 
This is what I purchased. Not my first lug go round. Selterm B87 3/0 AWG, stud size 3/8" solid copper, not zinc plated and UL listed. Finely crafted in India. Weight of an individual lug is 29 grams. Pack of 10 cost $16.66 on Bezos. As long as they are stamped UL they will pass an inspection.
 

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The lug that I listed is not zinc plated...it is tin plated and at least 3 times thicker than the one you reference.Boat guys use them on the coast because they stand up to corrosive, harsh environments much better. To each his own, but I wouldn't use anything but a fusion lug on the connections from a 15Kwh DC battery.They are also the correct stud size (1/4")for the EG4 6000XP I am installing. You put them vertically in a vice and heat with a T2 Turbotorch propane tip...takes 30 seconds and the joint will outlive you and me both.I just want to add that I am not a salesman for either Remy or Quick. I just recognize good sh*t when I use it.(y)
 

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Tin plating is optional since solder itself is 60% tin. Plus, I am mechanically crimping, not soldering. I have used both tin plated and non tin plated over the past 7 years with flooded lead acid batteries. The joints all held without problems. For this application in a dry environment in a garage these will be just fine. I think this just comes down to would you rather drive a Porsche, which I would, or drive a Chevy, which I chose to save money, not because its better than the Porsche.
 
Crimping is all we do out here in the oil patches ...

Although Soldering is electrically secure, Crimping is both mechanically and electrically secure ...

I have seen some arching on some of these higher voltage systems out here that has literally got hot enough to UNSOLDER connections .... (which is bad just in case you are wondering) ...

NEVER saw a properly crimped wire come UNCRIMPED ,,,,
 
If you are only crimping a handful the Anvil style "crimp" device was amazing on then 1/0 - 4/0 IMNSHO, and seriously inexpensive, just smack it with a hammer., Solder is always annoying, flux can go bad, sometimes it doesn't bond well, blah, blah. Probably a little better conductively.YMMV.
 
For this application in a dry environment in a garage these will be just fine.

There in lies the catch. Someone was comparing the $7 lugs in extreme marine conditions to using $1.60 in a dry protected non-marine location.

In the dry garage, if a lug fails, just go get another one at the auto parts store. But if it fails hundreds of miles out to sea and all the spares just went kerplunk, you might not make it back alive. At that point, it’s not a Porsch (a luxury) but could be what saves your life. If that boat never leaves the 300 yards off of the marina, then yeah I’d call it a Porsche with extravagant luxury. (I do want to some day drive one for an hour but haven’t yet had the chance!)

So both you and others are correct, it just depends upon context and risks.
 
This is what I purchased. Not my first lug go round. Selterm B87 3/0 AWG, stud size 3/8" solid copper, not zinc plated and UL listed. Finely crafted in India. Weight of an individual lug is 29 grams. Pack of 10 cost $16.66 on Bezos. As long as they are stamped UL they will pass an inspection.
Selterm is all I use too (although I use the tinned ones)
 
All valid points and the Selterm ones are probably fine.I just like the fact that the Fusion ones are a lot thicker and these 2 connections are all about electrical conductivity ,not mechanical strength.I am an old plumber and I trust my soldering ability, so there's that. I have made quite a few battery cable sets for vehicles and it's not hard at all.
 
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