diy solar

diy solar

I put that sh.,.stuff on everything

I’ve been putting dielectric grease on every connection I make.

I put in wire before crimping on lugs, I put it on busbars before landing the lugs, I put it inside my solar panel connectors, no put it on my battery terminal, I put it on the electrical plugs on my jeep when I’m replacing a light, etc.

As far as I can tell from looking around on the googles, this is never a mistake. Does anybody disagree?
From reading just the thread headline I thought it was Hot Sauce.
Oh well . ?‍♂️
 
From reading just the thread headline I thought it was Hot Sauce.
Oh well . ?‍♂️

A man after my own heart, now where's the Tabasco?

To remain on-topic I use Electropar Uni-Seal "All Purpose Electrical Jointing Compound" which is conductive (or at least, zinc loaded). It's not cheap but a tube will last forever at the rate we use it.

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I’ve been putting dielectric grease on every connection I make.

I put in wire before crimping on lugs, I put it on busbars before landing the lugs, I put it inside my solar panel connectors, no put it on my battery terminal, I put it on the electrical plugs on my jeep when I’m replacing a light, etc.

As far as I can tell from looking around on the googles, this is never a mistake. Does anybody disagree?

Ox-Gard is what the typical Electronics Engineer will use for situations were conductivity is of the utmost importance but there is a high probability that oxidation will occur.
It will Increase the conductivity of the connection while stopping any Oxidation from happening.
I doubt that it will increase conductivity if the metals are the same, but it won't decrease it.

Professional Ham Radio Operators use this stuff on all their connections for lightning protection.
On a 100ft Tower your typically using Stainless Steel Bolts to hold Copper wire onto an Aluminum Tower for the ground connection. This kind of thing can cause a ton of Oxidation with the three dissimilar metals being pressed together. Ox-Gard Pretty much stops that in it's tracks while increasing conductivity between these metals.

OX-100B_PKG_01.jpg


You can buy it on Amazon.
I use it on my Antenna systems for all of the grounding wiring but I honestly never thought it was needed on the Inverter Wiring. I kind of doubt most people need it but if you do need something to stop Oxidation while maintaining conductivity this will do the job.
 
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Dielectric grease is an insulator. Why would anyone want an insulator between two conductive surfaces? Use tin coated everything and apply the grease on the external metallic surfaces if you want the extra protection.
 
Aren't a lot of these products, offspring from the aluminum wiring problems of the past? Aluminum will oxidize almost instantly once prepared for connections. There was a time when aluminum was used in residential wiring and there were many problems associated with it. This problem is before my time but I guess it has been phased out of residential use in modern times.
I use NO-OX-ID A-SPECIAL on all my battery connections. Since I don't use flooded batteries in 99% of what I do, corrosion isn't a big problem but I see many hideously corroded battery cables here in Baja amongst the flooded battery crowd.
 
Why would anyone want an insulator between two conductive surfaces? Use tin coated everything...
Because aluminum custom busbars are so affordable and easy to obtain ;)
Still I fully understand your comment and I'm with you on coating to protect every contact, but it often not that simple.
 
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Why would anyone want an insulator between two conductive surfaces? Use tin coated everything and apply the grease on the external metallic surfaces if you want the extra protection.
Ox-Gard is not Dielectric Grease. It's mostly a Zinc based substance.
 
I first became familiar with NoAlox 25 years ago when my electrician used it to coat the Aluminum busbar on a new main service panel. I lived near the ocean and the salt air was hard on the bus bars. Ten years later when I did an EV conversion it seemed logical to apply it to aluminum terminal tops and copper bus bars. I live fifty miles from the ocean now but I still use it for both my battery connections and breaker panel connections.
 
I first became familiar with NoAlox 25 years ago when my electrician used it to coat the Aluminum busbar on a new main service panel. I lived near the ocean and the salt air was hard on the bus bars. Ten years later when I did an EV conversion it seemed logical to apply it to aluminum terminal tops and copper bus bars. I live fifty miles from the ocean now but I still use it for both my battery connections and breaker panel connections.
NoAlox is also very good product. I have not used it but I hear a lot guys praising it.
It seems like a shift happened many years ago and Ox-Gard became the more popular solution.
 
I use DeoxIT L27-ME for aluminum terminations. And for moving contact points. In disconnects and large industrial pin and sleeve connectors. (Big plugs)
 
How?
Do you think this stuff stay in place, between lug and busbar, when you apply torque and the resulting pressure is 1-4 tons for M6-M12 screw?
I mean, of course the grease will move and the contact will be metal-metal with grease around who seal the contact.
What if it doesn't move? What if it creates a pocket, and get sealed in with 1-4T of surrounding pressure? Why do compression fittings work on hydraulic lines?

Dialectric grease/lubrication is for pressure switching contacts where there is scraping/sliding between the metals to keep the surrounding material free from corrosion and aid in sliding across irregular spots in the material, maybe keep it from sticking. There is no way I would put grease IN a crimp connector. Might spray it on after to keep if from corroding. @timselectric may have a different opinion, but I think you are asking for problems putting it in a crimp. If you are trying to prevent corrosion inside use a solder slug instead of or with a your crimp.
 
NoAlox is also very good product. I have not used it but I hear a lot guys praising it.
It seems like a shift happened many years ago and Ox-Gard became the more popular solution.
I use Ox-Gard exclusively... Phhht, I needed it for something about a zillion years ago, and they only had this large tube of Ox-gard at the hardware store, I still have 1/2 a tube, I lost the cap, so it sits upright with a nail in the end. That's the problem when you are not an electrician, or a plumber, or a ... My can of pvc glue is usually hard before I need it again. I've somehow obtained two cans of bearing grease, both used at least once, ... <sigh>. I'm not sure why I have a laser level, I don't think I've ever used it.
 
I used grease on my cell terminals. Gently sanded them first, then immediately applied a thin film on the contact area. Then a thin film on the plated lugs.

From my salt water boat repair days, it works really well to keep out both moisture and oxygen. The contact pressure is enough to move it out of the way. Maybe a few microns of film left.

Aluminum oxide is also nonconductive, but I don't hear anybody screaming about just bolting a lug to an aluminum terminal. At least with grease the resistance shouldn't get worse over time.
 
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