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I just put a 12V light bulb from a car tail light on the high cell to keep it's voltage down a little.

Wow, they were less than $200 new.

Or....buy a $60 600-700W microwave and use your existing set up.

Look for a used hobby charger. I've got a Hyperion Super DUO 720i that can charge/discharge between 1-14 cells. Max charge rate is 20A, max discharge 5A. It balances all cells at the same time. Max voltage is adjustable from 3.60V to over 3.65V/cell. It will storage charge at 50% capacity...

Curious, in a parallel/serial battery set-up what carries more current, the parallel or serial connection?

Not too sure exactly what your asking, but you can connect the BMS wires directly to the negative battery terminal and the other side of the BMS to the smart shunt, then the other side of the smart shunt to your loads (or negative bus bar). It's also OK to hook the smart shunt directly to the...

Think through the problem. Do you already have the 2" pipe? If not, buy some that's already threaded. If you already have the pipe, is there another way to connect them without threading? Can someone else do the threading? Can you use a different type of pipe altogether?

I've actually seen your van build on FB. Super nice! How do you plan to fasten the battery pack to the van?

For some reason it's hard to find much info on that unit. I guess there aren't many using it.

Will might have made him busier than he wants to be.

I've got the same cells from Basen. Grub screws would thread in about 3 turns. I made a bottom tap by cutting down a standard tap and cut the threads until the tap bottomed in the hole (I measured the depth of each hole before tapping). After cleaning, I could then get between 3-1/2 to 4...

Sorry, missed that. Yes, 24V. .85 is to take into account inverter efficiency. Use whatever your inverter specs out.

1800W/.85/12 = 176A. The BMS likely won't handle that load for long. Sounds like you need a larger BMS or lessen the load.

Don't know if you'll be using a DC-DC charger in your van, or what kind, but I planned to use 18AWG for the remote switch running from the back of my van to the dashboard.

2/0 AWG isn't tooooo far off from 18 AWG :LOL:

Glad it was something simple!

What van do you have?

I think your zip tie idea would work just fine. Just be sure to protect the edges of the cells where the zip ties make contact so that you don't crush the cell. Most of the opinions you'll get are based on "feeling" and not testing. So take all comments, including mine, with a grain of salt...

Not sure. I saw a loctite chart somewhere in one of their brochures.

I’d also recommend to let it dry for more than 24hrs, just to be safe, since cure rate is partially dependent on temperature.

To be fair, the “SS” studs that came with my Basen lishen cells don’t seem to be 100% stainless steel, they are slightly magnetic. Strangely the nuts they provided are completely non-magnetic.

I used Loctite 263 which they say doesn’t need a primer. Used acetone to clean, applied the loctite, and let dry for 4 days before applying 35inlb to test. Held up to the test fine.

Because it was grossly extrapolated!

I hope I don't come off as beating up on you, I'm just questioning the overall thoughts of the group (it's healthy to have some skepticism, right?) There's no sufficient test data that determined 35 in/lbs is "ideal". This was just an "accepted" value by the forum members based on bolt torque...

From what we know, however, this was based on extrapolated test data, where the manufacturer tested the cells to ~750-800 cycles and essentially "guessed" what 2500-4000 cycles would look like. They might have guessed correctly or, worst case, they guess poorly and compressing the cells...

It could be that long-term fatigue failures haven't had time to surface yet from battery enclosures that allow movement (spring design) with solid bus bars.

You have a link for those cutting boards?

You got really close to that Victron blue. :)

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Good to know. I'll need to check mine!

Yep, there’s a chance the ring terminal might not even be touching the stud after assembly.

One of the best battery boxes I’ve seen. Nice job! Do you plan to use the stock bus bars? Are you ultimately paralleling 4 12v batteries?

How hard would you say you clamped them down?

I've been slowly coming to this conclusion too. Nice to see someone decipher the graphs for what they really show. My thinking is becoming - build your battery bank in such a way that doesn't stress the terminals (and maybe provide some vibration dampening if mounted in a mobile application)...

Really nice battery build! Maybe you've already answered this, but with the solid buss bars and a set-up to allow expansion between the cells, isn't that an issue?