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So I own a "B+" type RV, in which they are fairly popular because space is tight and you're often retrofitting them in. And the Ekko comes with the lithionics, plus a couple of others. So that's why I said they're everywhere, in that narrow space. And up til now I haven't found any equivalent to...

> why isn’t the marketplace full of such? It kind of is, at least in applications which require dense batteries. The lithionics 320AH is similar in size to this and it's everywhere, despite costing $4500 each. The lithionics is 3.15 watt per cubic inch and 68 lbs, this battery is 3.5 watt per...

Apparently the contact in the QUCC, I don't know what it's called, tends to fail open though. Too much current and the contact will weld it in place. So that's a drawback. You'd think the BMS could monitor that and send an alert if it fails but I don't think it does. Anyway I got the QUCC BMS...

DC-DC convertors are used to charge from the vehicles primary alternator. They're low capacity since the primary alternator isn't sized with a bunch of extra capacity, and since it's a transformer. The Orion, for example, tops out at 400W which would take 35 hours to fully charge my battery...

Yeah, we just talked about those two, neither one can do what I need. I had dismissed Chargery earlier as being annoying complex looking (it's the same thing as the QUCC basically, a relay BMS). But their web site is down this morning so I can't check on them again. You can get higher capacity...

It's for an RV, I don't have room. And I probably have more battery power than I need already, just to get enough cells to get to 48v. Since I'm not in a hurry, they haven't even started building the RV yet, and I've already ordered the QUCC, my current plan is to test it out. It seems like it...

Oh you mean http://www.electrodacus.com/ don't you. Have they added a 48v BMS? I don't see anything over 24v/8s on their web site.

It maxes out at 100A continuous charging current and I need at least 130. I was avoiding Chargery because it looks more like I'm building my own BMS than buying one, but if it's the only option I'm sure I can figure it out. Never heard of SBMS. This one? https://lithiumbalance.com/products/s-bms/

Way to high jack a thread. So do you have a BMS suggestion or not?

BMS is the cheapest part of the build, so if it's no good I can try something else and not feel too bad about the loss. Kind of dumb of me to listen to this thread I guess. Everyone was recommending that and saying don't get a Daly, and they were all basing it off one video of one youtuber doing...

Oh too late, I already ordered it and it's almost here. I'll test it out to see if it works before using it.

I think I'm going to change my mind and try the QUCC relay BMS. Even if the relay fails the only thing I'm doing that might hurt the battery is go under 0C, and I can watch for that. I'm not sure it even has a low temp shutuff. It says it does in the description but doesn't list it in the...

I'll ask chargery what they think about it, they use DC relays as well. I'll ask QUCC as well but I'm less confident there's anyone there to answer. I've heard good things about chargery anyway and not much at all about QUCC. Ok nevermind, I was just watching will install a chargery. I'm sure i...

I was avoiding that BMS because I haven't seen a mechanical relay BMS before. So I read up on them some and it sounds like they're a really bad idea in a mobile application.

Unfortunately no one's suggested a BMS that would work, the charging current usually caps out at 100A.

What's the advantage of a latching relay contact BMS? The mosfets one doesn't have low temp protection, which I need.

16s. And actually the 250A BMS might work, chargers will be an inverter charger that puts out 60A, an alternator that puts out 120A, and probably around 400W of solar. Which is only 8A. It seems safer to go up a size but the 300A BMS is harder to find and costs considerably more.

I need a BMS to charge 16 Lishen cells, and it needs to be able to handle about 150A charging current. The easiest solution seems to be a 300A Daly Smart BMS (300A discharge, 150A continuous charge). That's a pretty expensive BMS, they run around $300 for the smart one. So what's the best...

I shall stick with the standard 16 cells then. I was thinking of getting greedy and trying to squeeze in one more. I had a feeling it was a bad idea though, which is why I asked.

So I have it backwards, 48v commercial batteries are 15 3.2v cells? I just assumed the 48v was nominal and they're really 51.2. Like they do with the 12v, which are actually 12.8.

Lithionics sells 51v batteries. Which are clearly 48v batteries they added an extra cell to, on the assumption that 48v chargers have enough play in them to handle the extra 3 volts. Is there some downside to this, would it be bad for the charger, inverter, or 12v dc converter? Ah, after I...

I've actually been wondering, with that much battery, if I need to put in the alternator to start. I'm not going to full time in the RV, initial trips would be short. If those batteries last a few days in one spot I could overnight at a campground or go home to charge them up and do laundry and...

Plan is across the northern US and western US, avoiding the east coast and south.

Hadn't thought of that. More stuff to jam in though, so I'm sure I wouldn't start out there. As far as I can tell, even adding tanks heaters and whatnot in the winter the 12v draw should never get above 1000w. I do wonder why Volta uses a $2000 48V to 12V converter that can output 3000W in...

It's belt driven. And 6000 watts isn't out of line for belt driven alternators. Volta goes up to 8000, ambulances and monster trucks and such use similar systems. It's only something like 14 hp off a 380 hp engine. The 370A XP for sale already puts out 4400w. But think about the cables to move...

There's something called a soft start you can put on the AC which slows down the rotor startup time. We're talking 1/6s to about 1/2s, so not something noticeable to a user. It costs $300 and brings the surge down to...I forget, but you can run the AC on a 2000W inverter at that point. It sounds...

I was mostly asking about the electrical aspect, but building the battery to minimize rattling and vibration is something I'll consider.

It comes with a Dometic Penguin II. Dometic lists the locked rotor current on their web page. I forget the number but if you multiply it out it comes to about 8000w. Other 4000w inverters often have a 12000w surge, but the Magnum has the best charger for charging the battery off shore power or a...

That's hard to say since I don't have the RV yet, and it's going to vary enormously depending on the weather. IE air conditioner use. But for a 48V system you need 16 cells, and I'm pretty sure that will exceed my need. I also suspect I won't need to run the engine much to charge, unless it's...

I have an RV on order, a small class C/B+ (LTV WRL-AWD), and I want to put in an electrical system for off grid camping without relying on a generator. Nations has a second alternator kit for the transit with 280 and 370 amp 12v alternators. I contacted them about higher voltages and was told...