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Daly BMS Amazon store

Toddmccollam

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Feb 12, 2021
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I need a BMS to charge 16 Lishen cells, and it needs to be able to handle about 150A charging current. The easiest solution seems to be a 300A Daly Smart BMS (300A discharge, 150A continuous charge). That's a pretty expensive BMS, they run around $300 for the smart one. So what's the best source? There's a DalyBMS Store on Aliexpress, A blmpow Official store, and an Amazon store (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08RRWFB7S). Prices fluctuate, the amazon one is a little cheaper right now, still ships from China. Has anyone ordered from them? Is there a better source?

Or feel free to suggest some other BMS if you like.

Thanks you.
 
Are you building a 16s or 8s battery?

16s. And actually the 250A BMS might work, chargers will be an inverter charger that puts out 60A, an alternator that puts out 120A, and probably around 400W of solar. Which is only 8A. It seems safer to go up a size but the 300A BMS is harder to find and costs considerably more.
 
You could try going with 2 of these BMS in parallel. The 200A version states 100A charging so for your application you will need to 2 parallel, still combined price is little more than half the price of the $300 BMS. I haven't tried these as my projects are lower power mobile applications and have recently heard of this manufacturer.

200A Discharge 100A Charge Mosfets BMS

Another option from same manufacturer is a latching contact relay bms. This version is a smart BMS that uses the XiaoXiang app. This does 200A discharge and 200A charge.

This is a YouTube channel that used an earlier version of the relay BMS.
 
You could try going with 2 of these BMS in parallel. The 200A version states 100A charging so for your application you will need to 2 parallel, still combined price is little more than half the price of the $300 BMS. I haven't tried these as my projects are lower power mobile applications and have recently heard of this manufacturer.

200A Discharge 100A Charge Mosfets BMS

Another option from same manufacturer is a latching contact relay bms. This version is a smart BMS that uses the XiaoXiang app. This does 200A discharge and 200A charge.

This is a YouTube channel that used an earlier version of the relay BMS.

What's the advantage of a latching relay contact BMS? The mosfets one doesn't have low temp protection, which I need.
 
I don't have either BMS so I cannot confirm the low temperature disconnect. I can only review the listing. Hopefully someone else in the forum who has these BMS can confirm the features for you.

The latching BMS is a smart BMS. I believe it uses the same app as the BMS on Overkill Solar and Batteryhookup. I have used the app on a BMS I purchased from Batteryhookup. You can customize that BMS settings by Bluetooth for the profile you like for your battery. This BMS should also have a coulometer for SoC of battery.
 
I have (had) the Daly, 250A dumb and 150A smart.

The dumb is fried, the smart "pre production model"..

Daly is not advisable above 100A.
They don't build the smart, just put their name on it. And it's not good.
Perhaps in the future.
Already 4 major hardware changes in the last 9 months....
So they do improve.
Only too bad they give almost 0 support to the other releases.
(As they know it's bad, they should be flexible with swaps, not even need return as they know that costs $75...)

So..
Crap.

Better use the contactor solutions :)

@ghostwriter66 made a informative post about this BMS.

 
I have (had) the Daly, 250A dumb and 150A smart.

The dumb is fried, the smart "pre production model"..

Daly is not advisable above 100A.
They don't build the smart, just put their name on it. And it's not good.
Perhaps in the future.
Already 4 major hardware changes in the last 9 months....
So they do improve.
Only too bad they give almost 0 support to the other releases.
(As they know it's bad, they should be flexible with swaps, not even need return as they know that costs $75...)

So..
Crap.

Better use the contactor solutions :)

@ghostwriter66 made a informative post about this BMS.


Unfortunately no one's suggested a BMS that would work, the charging current usually caps out at 100A.
 
Unfortunately no one's suggested a BMS that would work, the charging current usually caps out at 100A.
???

The QUCC Smart BMS
Can do 200A continuous, 600A peak.

I would call this working:)

Alterative: Chargery and DIYBMS.
Charge and discharge is limited by the contactors, if you buy 1000A, it could do a peak of 4000A
If you buy 250A contactor, the peak is 1000A

And yes, you can use a shunt to measure the amperage, and act on it if it's outside your specifications.
 
???

The QUCC Smart BMS
Can do 200A continuous, 600A peak.

I would call this working:)

Alterative: Chargery and DIYBMS.
Charge and discharge is limited by the contactors, if you buy 1000A, it could do a peak of 4000A
If you buy 250A contactor, the peak is 1000A

And yes, you can use a shunt to measure the amperage, and act on it if it's outside your specifications.

I was avoiding that BMS because I haven't seen a mechanical relay BMS before. So I read up on them some and it sounds like they're a really bad idea in a mobile application.
 
Depending on your mobile installation....

Forklift truck uses contactors.
Golf carts uses contactors.

If you want to use it for off the road type of mobile... Perhaps.

But it would take an enormous force to disconnect the magnetic contact in a contactor.

Earthquake like.

I dropped one contactor in the past. When turned on.
Sure the wires probably slowed down the fall before it reached the concrete floor.
Besides a few scratches, not a problem.

And... Never disconnected.

Please provide me with the source of information that told you it would not be good for mobile installation.
I'm really curious about their motivation!!
 
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Depending on your mobile installation....

Forklift truck uses contactors.
Golf carts uses contactors.

If you want to use it for off the road type of mobile... Perhaps.

But it would take an enormous force to disconnect the magnetic contact in a contactor.

Earthquake like.

I dropped one contactor in the past. When turned on.
Sure the wires probably slowed down the fall before it reached the concrete floor.
Besides a few scratches, not a problem.

And... Never disconnected.

Please provide me with the source of information that told you it would not be good for mobile installation.
I'm really curious about their motivation!!

I'll ask chargery what they think about it, they use DC relays as well. I'll ask QUCC as well but I'm less confident there's anyone there to answer. I've heard good things about chargery anyway and not much at all about QUCC. Ok nevermind, I was just watching will install a chargery. I'm sure i could figure it out if I wanted to but the whole point of buying a BMS is to have a simpler solution than that.
 
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I think I'm going to change my mind and try the QUCC relay BMS. Even if the relay fails the only thing I'm doing that might hurt the battery is go under 0C, and I can watch for that. I'm not sure it even has a low temp shutuff. It says it does in the description but doesn't list it in the specs. I'll have to test it.
 
Personally I haven't tried it.

Point of BMS is that you don't have to manually measure each cell once you think it might get in the "danger zone" (too high or too low) and disconnect the charging or consuming by hand.

Besides that, some balancing is needed.

"Stupid or smart", both do the same.
With smart you can see what's going on, with stupid you need to measure and thrust all will work OK.
Depending on your investment, that might be a good choice.
My +$5500... I like to watch like a hawk as an overcharge for 30 minutes (probably shorter) is enough to permanently damage, more likely destroy.
That's an expensive 30 minutes.

Yes, once you set things up, you can more or less forget about it.
That doesn't mean that you don't have to check up from time to time to see how it is doing.
Dumb BMS means you need to measure the cells with your multimeter.
Smart you see it in the app :)

It can be in the only one who double check from time to time if a door is locked, lights are off, stove is off, etc. Even things that are supposed to go automatic.
About once a month I check all the car doors if the locks work, the lights and tire pressure.
All things that should go automatically, and show errors if not.
I found that the tire pressure sensor have larger tolerance then I like to do :)

Safety first
It can be lost in a moment when it's not monitored and guarded.

(Also when you are installing the BMS and cells.... Safety first!
Do protect your tools as you might accedently drop it or make contact... That's a lot of sparks, and not healthy for you or the cells.

Your screwdriver might end up like this:2021-2-26 10-9-49.jpg
(Oepsie)
 
Please hold off on the Qucc BMS. That doesn't work properly. BMS should kill charging for high cell voltage and discharging for low cell voltage. There are concerns in a follow up video that the Qucc, at least previous version, may not be actually protect cells like they are supposed to.

 
Thank you for sharing!
Yeah, that's crazy.
He can hear the contactor click but it doesn't affect the connection.
(Apparently always on)

That's strange!
The click one hears is the iron core sliding with high speed in the electro magnet, and "ramming" onto the contact area.

No way a normal designed contactor could make that "click" if the electro magnet is defective.

And for a "short" it should be welded inside due the arc.
Meaning no movement, = no click.

Really bad designed...
Anything can happen.

Really a shame to hear this.
The design idea is good.
 
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Dang. Really sad to hear this.

With DIYBMS you do have control over all the parts and what they to, when they do and how they do.

It's not for everyone, soldering parts and flashing chips.
But atleast you know what you have and what it will do.
 
Please hold off on the Qucc BMS. That doesn't work properly. BMS should kill charging for high cell voltage and discharging for low cell voltage. There are concerns in a follow up video that the Qucc, at least previous version, may not be actually protect cells like they are supposed to.

A new "never buy this product" recommendation.
 
Oh too late, I already ordered it and it's almost here. I'll test it out to see if it works before using it.
Especially above 12 volts, it can be very difficult to make or break a high amperage connection since the contacts like to arc and weld themselves shut. Like his cheap Chinese copy of the circuit breaker, this is an area where being cheap doesn't usually pay off.

Edit to add that the company that designed the BMS seems to be totally clueless as to what the purpose of a BMS is.
 
Especially above 12 volts, it can be very difficult to make or break a high amperage connection since the contacts like to arc and weld themselves shut. Like his cheap Chinese copy of the circuit breaker, this is an area where being cheap doesn't usually pay off.

Edit to add that the company that designed the BMS seems to be totally clueless as to what the purpose of a BMS is.

BMS is the cheapest part of the build, so if it's no good I can try something else and not feel too bad about the loss. Kind of dumb of me to listen to this thread I guess. Everyone was recommending that and saying don't get a Daly, and they were all basing it off one video of one youtuber doing his first build.
 
BMS is the cheapest part of the build, so if it's no good I can try something else and not feel too bad about the loss. Kind of dumb of me to listen to this thread I guess. Everyone was recommending that and saying don't get a Daly, and they were all basing it off one video of one youtuber doing his first build.
I already have 3 different types of BMS myself. The Daly isn't bad, but by the same token, it's lacking in many aspects. Certainly if you can afford to, trying out multiple brands or designs is ideal.
 
You are absolutely wrong, writing that the BMS is the cheapest part in the installation.

A huge misconception.
It is the part that will protect your expensive cells.
Like ABS or airbag for a car.
You should not need ABS, but are happy to stop in time when you do use it.
Compare that to balancing.
A weak ABS breaking system will get you into accidents. (+ Your driving style and rest of the car)
Compare this to your installation, good contact of the bus-bar, and the charger (solar/hybrid/ ac-dc inverter, etc)
Ok. Your "car" gets in a tricky situation and the ABS isn't able to stop you on time. (Discharge the too high charged cell) after the crash, your seatbelt and Airbag makes you step outside alive.
That is to compare with the stopping mechanism of BMS.

And you are absolutely right that it never should be used.
Even balancing should hardly be needed.

When you know you can use just 50% of lead acid, using 70% of LiFePO4 is already a huge profit.

Car comparison again.
When you drive slow, careful and be on constant high alert, ABS is never needed, like seatbelt and Airbag, except extreme situation.

That is like using 70% of the cells.

When you do want to use 90%..
You need your ABS, Seatbelt and airbag in top quality and functionality.

So if you want BMS to follow the "regulations" sure, it's the cheapest part in the setup. Cheaper then the Bus-bars.
But don't expect it to really work.
80mA is cute, sweet and it does balance.
Works perfectly for 25-40Ah setup.
400Ah? 1000? Not so much.
1000Ah should have equivalent, makes it 2A balancing...

Turn off (airbag)
50A system, Mosfet works fine.
250A?
It will be in a constant overload situation, and just waiting to snap. If your car would not be able to start without airbag..
And it's a constant stressed part...
Many cars won't be driving today.

This is known, and anyone who stops to think about it can understand that there are limits how far you can stretch a system for low capacity.

In the car industry it is known that mosfets, way cheaper solution then contactors, aren't reliable.
We are not inventing the wheel here.
Old knowledge in new setup.

Why do you think a starter contactor is there? And not mosfet?
(SSR, solid state relay)

It was a dumb move from QUCC to use a starter contactor in their BMS.
Again a situation where it's abused beyond its intended use.

Starter contactor is build for shorter time contact, not continuous.

Abused like Mosfet, and so it failed.

Will all starter contactor fail in a year, abusing them as normal contactor?
Probably not. But it won't last your LiFePO4 lifetime.

The new version does have a normal contactor.
Yeey, they have seen the light!!!!

.....

There are good Daly BMS out there.

Will is extremely positive and strong in his encouragement to buy Daly.
And up to 100 A, he is correct.
The "dumb" units are a "set and forget" quality product.

"Their" smart is OEM, and was released Pre-mature.
As owner of one imperfect 150A "Smart"..
Unusable for my installation, as it requires to pre-charge the inverters.
(The "dumb" 250A didn't have that problem)

If that one didn't fail, I would still be using it. But it did.
After some investigation it turns out many units fail the first year. Many.

So sad @Will Prowse doesn't do endurance test.
I sure like to know which one he uses in daily base as main protection.

The need for BMS is clear.
Also what it needs to do.
And sure, you can abuse components beyond intend.
it will work for a while, and if that is the safe feeling you like to have, buy one!!

Just don't expect it to really protect your cells.

Last month I rebuilded my LiFePO4 battery.
With the bad experience (defect and unusable/pre-mature) of the Daly my setup have worked without proper BMS too long.
it did have active balancer that I monitored closely via Bluetooth.

I used the "70%" and "drove like an old lady"

Yet I ended up buying 4 new 280Ah cells.
They aren't fully defective, re-usabble. They do have reduced capacity what would affect the capacity of the whole 560Ah setup.

$ 400,- extra spend...
Unneeded if I wouldn't have been better informed about BMS and the huge difference there is between S4 and S16 setup.

Daly isn't bad.
QUCC isn't bad.
both have products that never would have been released in USA or Europe. The companies would have been sued for malpractice.
Too high % fails to do it's job.

you are a smart man.
I'm sure you realise that the reactions in this forum aren't based on one YouTube video.

Most of us don't make YouTube video's.
I like to but mis the skillset to do any video editing.
I even fail in fast forward a section.

That's how good most people's video editing skills are.

I own/ have owned 7 different BMS.
And the new "spare" set have a simple mosfet based BMS.
$8,- including transport.
The maximum load will be 20A.
Charging with one 300w solar panel, PWM controller

And in this setup, the cheap BMS is perfect choice.

For our home, off grid, 1016Ah, +50 kWh LiFePO4...
That's a whole different ballpark.

It's pain wrong and stupid to even think to use the same products, just "upscaled" and expect it to work.

@Will Prowse , please do make a video about the huge difference between "RV" or "emergency power" (lower capacity) setup and high capacity installation.

FYI, a 100Ah LiFePO4 cell puts out over 1000A at a full short.
Tenfold.
Remember that when you are playing with the cells, that one 280ah cell will onload with +/- 9000 watts.

If you ever have played or seen electronic device/equipment using 5000 watt and more, and the amount of security related systems are installed to operate them safely...

You can do the math.

What do you expect for 100 bucks?
And how high do you expect the quality and R&D from Chinese companies is?

One Daly split port , using contactors to switch is a perfect solution that keeps discharge available if charge is too high and stoped.
One quality 300A breaker is $125,-
Cheap knock-off $45.
That already brings you over 100$
Next step is the balancing, where 80mA is good for 40ah cells.

You do your math on how much you need for your setup.

My 1000Ah will need 2.5A to be able to keep the pack balanced.

It happens to be that I have 2 sections, 456 and 560Ah
Each section 1.5A passive balance and 1A active balancing.
Total of 5A.

This is after a year of learning and replaced 3 152Ah and 4 280Ah cells.

Replacements that would not have been needed if I didn't get the wrong impression from Will and other solar gurus how size doesn't matter.

It does.
It massively impacts the tools and equipment you need to use.

You are planning to build 4 X S16 280Ah.
Over 1000Ah battery.

Don't be misguided by thinking it's just 10 X 100Ah.

I really do wish I had video editing skills.

If you need to gain the knowledge from YouTube...
Sadly not a lot of good videos out there with +1000Ah installations.
 
You are absolutely wrong, writing that the BMS is the cheapest part in the installation.

A huge misconception.
It is the part that will protect your expensive cells.
Like ABS or airbag for a car.
You should not need ABS, but are happy to stop in time when you do use it.
Compare that to balancing.
A weak ABS breaking system will get you into accidents. (+ Your driving style and rest of the car)
Compare this to your installation, good contact of the bus-bar, and the charger (solar/hybrid/ ac-dc inverter, etc)
Ok. Your "car" gets in a tricky situation and the ABS isn't able to stop you on time. (Discharge the too high charged cell) after the crash, your seatbelt and Airbag makes you step outside alive.
That is to compare with the stopping mechanism of BMS.

And you are absolutely right that it never should be used.
Even balancing should hardly be needed.

When you know you can use just 50% of lead acid, using 70% of LiFePO4 is already a huge profit.

Car comparison again.
When you drive slow, careful and be on constant high alert, ABS is never needed, like seatbelt and Airbag, except extreme situation.

That is like using 70% of the cells.

When you do want to use 90%..
You need your ABS, Seatbelt and airbag in top quality and functionality.

So if you want BMS to follow the "regulations" sure, it's the cheapest part in the setup. Cheaper then the Bus-bars.
But don't expect it to really work.
80mA is cute, sweet and it does balance.
Works perfectly for 25-40Ah setup.
400Ah? 1000? Not so much.
1000Ah should have equivalent, makes it 2A balancing...

Turn off (airbag)
50A system, Mosfet works fine.
250A?
It will be in a constant overload situation, and just waiting to snap. If your car would not be able to start without airbag..
And it's a constant stressed part...
Many cars won't be driving today.

This is known, and anyone who stops to think about it can understand that there are limits how far you can stretch a system for low capacity.

In the car industry it is known that mosfets, way cheaper solution then contactors, aren't reliable.
We are not inventing the wheel here.
Old knowledge in new setup.

Why do you think a starter contactor is there? And not mosfet?
(SSR, solid state relay)

It was a dumb move from QUCC to use a starter contactor in their BMS.
Again a situation where it's abused beyond its intended use.

Starter contactor is build for shorter time contact, not continuous.

Abused like Mosfet, and so it failed.

Will all starter contactor fail in a year, abusing them as normal contactor?
Probably not. But it won't last your LiFePO4 lifetime.

The new version does have a normal contactor.
Yeey, they have seen the light!!!!

.....

There are good Daly BMS out there.

Will is extremely positive and strong in his encouragement to buy Daly.
And up to 100 A, he is correct.
The "dumb" units are a "set and forget" quality product.

"Their" smart is OEM, and was released Pre-mature.
As owner of one imperfect 150A "Smart"..
Unusable for my installation, as it requires to pre-charge the inverters.
(The "dumb" 250A didn't have that problem)

If that one didn't fail, I would still be using it. But it did.
After some investigation it turns out many units fail the first year. Many.

So sad @Will Prowse doesn't do endurance test.
I sure like to know which one he uses in daily base as main protection.

The need for BMS is clear.
Also what it needs to do.
And sure, you can abuse components beyond intend.
it will work for a while, and if that is the safe feeling you like to have, buy one!!

Just don't expect it to really protect your cells.

Last month I rebuilded my LiFePO4 battery.
With the bad experience (defect and unusable/pre-mature) of the Daly my setup have worked without proper BMS too long.
it did have active balancer that I monitored closely via Bluetooth.

I used the "70%" and "drove like an old lady"

Yet I ended up buying 4 new 280Ah cells.
They aren't fully defective, re-usabble. They do have reduced capacity what would affect the capacity of the whole 560Ah setup.

$ 400,- extra spend...
Unneeded if I wouldn't have been better informed about BMS and the huge difference there is between S4 and S16 setup.

Daly isn't bad.
QUCC isn't bad.
both have products that never would have been released in USA or Europe. The companies would have been sued for malpractice.
Too high % fails to do it's job.

you are a smart man.
I'm sure you realise that the reactions in this forum aren't based on one YouTube video.

Most of us don't make YouTube video's.
I like to but mis the skillset to do any video editing.
I even fail in fast forward a section.

That's how good most people's video editing skills are.

I own/ have owned 7 different BMS.
And the new "spare" set have a simple mosfet based BMS.
$8,- including transport.
The maximum load will be 20A.
Charging with one 300w solar panel, PWM controller

And in this setup, the cheap BMS is perfect choice.

For our home, off grid, 1016Ah, +50 kWh LiFePO4...
That's a whole different ballpark.

It's pain wrong and stupid to even think to use the same products, just "upscaled" and expect it to work.

@Will Prowse , please do make a video about the huge difference between "RV" or "emergency power" (lower capacity) setup and high capacity installation.

FYI, a 100Ah LiFePO4 cell puts out over 1000A at a full short.
Tenfold.
Remember that when you are playing with the cells, that one 280ah cell will onload with +/- 9000 watts.

If you ever have played or seen electronic device/equipment using 5000 watt and more, and the amount of security related systems are installed to operate them safely...

You can do the math.

What do you expect for 100 bucks?
And how high do you expect the quality and R&D from Chinese companies is?

One Daly split port , using contactors to switch is a perfect solution that keeps discharge available if charge is too high and stoped.
One quality 300A breaker is $125,-
Cheap knock-off $45.
That already brings you over 100$
Next step is the balancing, where 80mA is good for 40ah cells.

You do your math on how much you need for your setup.

My 1000Ah will need 2.5A to be able to keep the pack balanced.

It happens to be that I have 2 sections, 456 and 560Ah
Each section 1.5A passive balance and 1A active balancing.
Total of 5A.

This is after a year of learning and replaced 3 152Ah and 4 280Ah cells.

Replacements that would not have been needed if I didn't get the wrong impression from Will and other solar gurus how size doesn't matter.

It does.
It massively impacts the tools and equipment you need to use.

You are planning to build 4 X S16 280Ah.
Over 1000Ah battery.

Don't be misguided by thinking it's just 10 X 100Ah.

I really do wish I had video editing skills.

If you need to gain the knowledge from YouTube...
Sadly not a lot of good videos out there with +1000Ah installations.
I mention these issues quite often. I even used your experience and others on the forum to make people aware of "smart" daly bms.

For the "dumb" dalys, I love them. I think people should spend more money on high quality BMS, but I still have not been able to break a sub 100A "dumb" daly.

I mention all of these points in my videos. I also have installed daly bms in my friends batteries and they are running right now, for years. They are fine.

It is unfortunate that the "smart" daly models have problems. I have never purchased one, and do not plan to. I will stick to the higher quality ones for larger systems.

I am actually surprised that anyone would use a daly bms for a large system. I guess you can, but why? Why not use a higher quality BMS? There are so many available these days.
 
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Also I should add, if you have high quality matched cells, the balance current on the daly is fine. The $1000 Orion BMS that has been installed in electric vehicles (one of my best friends installs them), uses passive dissipative balancing with the same current as the daly.

Having a 2A balance current is absolutely unnecessary. I do not understand where the myth originated from that you need a high balancing current. Cell drift of LiFePO4 at low C rates is extremely tiny. This is not Lipoly being used at high c rates. It is not small NMC packs. You do not need to spend extra money on a "active balancer". It is a complete rip off.
 

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