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you have a link for the victron app. I have the victron connect app

I have down loaded victronconnect to update firmware and parameters. Can some one PM me the secret code that allows setting to be changed. Have asked the vendor and it is not yet forthcoming.

Near as I can tell the AC leads are connected properly. I have 120 volts on the AC input and none on the AC out.

If I do find I have power to the AC1 output from shore power I will switch the leads at my junction and distribution panel as that is much easier than getting the AC wires out of the multiplusII

yeppers it does have 4 wire input and output. White is Neutral, Red/Pink L2, Green PE, and Black L1. I certainly think I have them all connected correctly, It is a real pain to try to pull them out. I may get that done in the AM and make sure I have Close to 3/4 inch of bare wire to stick into...

Well today was a day of great expectations and dashed hopes. I was able to mount the solar on the roof yesterday. I previously had connected the PV wires to a breaker that was switched off and had the SCCs connected thru a turned off breaker to the Main Positive bus bar Today I installed the 2...

They have 2 binding terminals for the postives and negatives

just installed my multiplusII the documentation calls for 2 1/0 cables each for the positive and negative 12 volt DC feeds. I have no clue why but I did run the 2 1/0 cables. I wired a 150 amp fuse to the 1/0 feed from each battery plus. the put a heavy duty cut off switch on each lead to a bus...

They are both reds are the same as are both the black wires though diff length than the reds

I just bought 12 of the 30 amp fuses. I to replace the one I blew somehow with no battery at all in the system. Who knows the battery positive and negative house battery cables may have touched or the positive cable touched the frame but i replace the fuse with one of the 2 I bought at auto...

At some point before the trailer is dragged to the storage lot I will tie wires together that make sense and secure to the plywood and also affix the bottom plywood to the trailer. Right now it is helpful to have some flexibility in positioning to make connections such as the 6 guage wire to...

Yes all the red wires from each battery thru the Red Covered bus bar are the same length. The black wires from each battery to the shunt then on to the black covered bus bar are the same length. They are not the same length as the red wires but that does not matter.

I have been busy past few days. The positive leads from the solar panels go into a breaker switch then into the respective SCCs. All wires from the roof to the SCCs are the same length by color. All the black negative lines from the roof to SCCs and from SCCs to Bus Bars are equal. The positive...

I am installing 2 310 AMP nominal 12 volt batteries in parallel to my 5th wheel. I am also installing 840 watts of solar panels hooked 2s then each pair running to its own EPEVER 40 Amp SCC. Given my 5th wheel is parked and charging a lot more than it is running down the batteries I am...

I have been busy past few days. The positive leads from the solar panels go into a breaker switch then into the respective SCCs. All wires from the roof to the SCCs are the same length by color. All the black negative lines from the roof to SCCs and from SCCs to Bus Bars are equal. The...

Thanks, was wondering if you think there will be an issue with the thin plastic insulator on cells wearing thru and causing shorts in the battery. If the case is actually connected to the negative pole of the cells this is moot.

What is the plate you have the battery warming pads affixed to and is there anything between the plate and the bottom of the batteries? I may make a similar set up with batteries turned on side to fit in my current battery bin.

A couple of pictures would be very helpful if you have the time and inclination. Thanks for a great idea.

Do really need to surface mount the panels. One can buy 6 ft lengths of 1 x 3 aluminum angle and make a bracket that mounts to the unistrut and another that mounts to the panel and hook the two together like a tilt bracket. The advantage is you have room to get hands and tools under the panels...

Were the cutting board block under the strut channel basically to lift the strut channel off the roof to allow water to drain? Pretty good idea! I think my roof has enough pitch that it drains naturally but may steal your idea.

I had really planned on putting my shut offs before the common positive bus bar just so I shut batteries off from all loads, should I rethink? Do agree with shutoffs and breaker between panels and SCC and SCC and batteries

Thanks got some 6 Guage wire prolly 2 x feet more than what I need but better to have and not need than need and not have.

You may have done this on another thread can you either post picture of your battery setup or link to previously posted picture. I am also making 2 4S batteries that will run in parallel to 2 SCCs and one Victron MultiplusII

I am using bolt on fuse at the battery to a battery disconnect switch then on to the positive busbar and MultiplusII with a 100 amp bolt fuse from busbar to feed to the 12 volt distribution panel

I have 4 210 watt solar panels that will be connected 2s each to its own EPever 40 Amp SCC. Panel specs Power: 210 Watt 6 Busbar Monocrystaline Vmp: 22.42V Voc: 24.9V Imp: 9.37A Isc: 9.85A Maximum System Voltage: 600V J-Box is IP67 Rated with Diodes Cables: 12AWG, approximately 3 feet Wire...

The 12 Volt side of the Multiplus 2 is a Big oval with protected rounded edges on the opening. The AC side has several somewhere near 1 inch plastic inserted openings. This weekends project will be dry hooking up the AC input and Out put wires to the Multi Plus. Link to instructions with...

Have nearly everything on hand to install the system. On Hand: 8 LiFePO4 310 AH Cells 2 Daly 150 AMP BMS with fan 4s 2 200 AMP Switches 2 EPever 40 Amp MPPT SCC Tracer4215BN 1 Victron Multi PlusII 12 /3000 10 Ft Black 1/0 Cable * 10 Ft Red 1/0 Cable * 1 300 AMP shunt 25 Ft 6 Gauge 4 wire Cable...

I just got 4 210 watt HighTec solar panels from https://www.continuousresources.com/collections/solar-panels-and-hardware for $194 each they have Hightec 215 watt panels for $200

Sadly my fridge is in a slide out and is a long way from the batteries and where I will mount the SCC. Planning on doing the Tito thing with a box next to Bathroom vent running straight down towards were the Distribution box is and snaking wires to the basement following existing wire runs

The last piece of my puzzle is the Shunt and Battery monitor. Other than the Brand Name is there a really good reason to go with a Victron vs an approximately half priced shunt and monitor?

keep us posted, I am in approximately the same place you are. Have gathered most of what I need the 4 hightec 210 watt panels have shipped. Have the strut channel SCCs Battery Cells BMS most of rest is on its way from amazon. Still need to figure out where to put Multiplus II and the...

Thanks. I have ordered the 1/4-20 Plus nuts for my install.

What size plus nuts did you use? I am torn between 1-20 and 5/16-18. Did you use the well nuts at all. I have 4 10 foot strips of painted unistrut (figured it might be more rust resistant). My roof pitches from front to rear on one side of the divide and from rear to front on the other side...

Again thanks for the tip, I can do that.

You appear to be replicating approximately 1/2 of what I am installing. So quite glad to get the fuse and breaker information. I had planned to run 2/0 or 4/0 wire to my Victron Multiplus II 12 / 3000 unit. The documentation specifies using 2 1/0 leads for both the Positive and Negative...