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Yeah, that's a possibility. More and more I have the impression that PowMr buy outdated MakeSkyBlue surplus they won't sell anyway and rebadge them. For specifically the solar controller, they follow MakeSkyBlue in tech by about 2 years. With mean that if you buy PowMr, you're about two years...

The only way to properly know, would be to know what software it run. I expect PowMr to run older MakeSkyBlue firmware. The old 60A unit is a copy of a very old makeskyblue unit, running v113 firmware. The new PowMr 60A Pro seam to be a copy of newer makeskyblue, very similar internal to v119...

It depend of you're setup and expectation. Personally I turn my rig on in the morning, l aim for the batteries to be fully charged by 4pm (so usually I begin the mining at about 11am). I turn the mining off during the night, when the batteries hit 65% I only do that mining cycle when day is...

Sure, for you I can do that ;)

Finally, not only PowMr is using makeskyblue design. Actually a ton of other clones exist. A lot of them are sold as "makeskyblue" with is worst than what PowMr do PowMr seam to make be best clone so far. And it seam to be one of the most popular brand for cheap SCC. But personally I would...

New PowMr, the one that have a nice new exterior that don't look like a thin can, did release with the same PCB than what makeskyblue was using, but about a year after... If the PowMr was not a ripoff, I would expect them to ship with the new PCB before makeskyblue and not the other way around...

Proof is in first page of this thread https://diysolarforum.com/threads/powmr-are-still-ripoff-beware.43094 (pictures). Why do New PowMr model do endup with makeskyblue PCB one year after makeskyblue release the product? Plus, Why do PowMr (old thin-can model that look like makeskyblue) do run...

You got lucky, probably. That initial ripoff version you show don't have an exact copy of the other product (but it run an outdated firmware from makeskyblue) unlike the new revision of that PowMr charge controller that now look totally identical internally to the makeskyblue (no idea of what...

Removing youtube video using negative feedback, when I said that? There is many way to get youtube videos removed. dyor

The video on youtube of that unit that caught on fire is not there anymore, I suppose it got striked (common practice on youtube to get rid of video you don't like)

Hope you're backend on where you did screw all the stuff have good fire retardant. That old ripoff model can't be trusted Just to be curious, how much A you feed them?

The old model of PowMr use to have that specific bug (I think it was because it was using a very old MakeSkyBlue firmware). I thought they at least fixed that one in there updated ripoff, That for confirming it's still present. Last year I did score my two 48V, 60A MakeSkyBlue for a total of...

They made two copy of the same model, the new one seam to be better. For the one I did talk about, it have sub par components that are not rated for the job and very old and buggy firmware. I did make a thread here showing the original product guts and the two version of the PowMr ...

I did notice an anomaly on one of my solar cell. It seam that the metal that do the connection inside the cell is getting "shiny" See images (first one is affected cell, second one is another cell (with some crap on it). Only one cell seam to be affected (6 x 400W panels). Is that some kind of...

Yeah, good point @Bud Martin My Inverter do bip if I plug a fridge before turning it on. So I have my house breaker all set to OFF when I turn on the inverter. Then after about 5-10sec, when the voltage display stabilized on the inverter, I turn all my house breaker ON.

It's me or only the positive is connected in parallel. From picture, it look like the inverter ground is connected on a different battery than the charge controller. Are both batteries actually connected in parallel and charged +-equal?

You have a nice cost saving if you got for the 48V You need to use equal length cables and have the negative on the opposite side of the bank. Using proper busbar to connect all batteries is best with big parallel system.

Hmmm, good to know, will check mine.... Eventually (I never use the outlets anyway)

According to the manual, If i'm not mistaken, the outlet is not rated for more than 10 or 15A (total, for both of them). You should use the other contacts and you're own cable / outlets. I do have a 3000W/48V version, running the whole house with it non stop since half a year so far.

Would you mind dumping you're PowMr M60-PRO EEPROM? As I know you got one and I don't think you are going to be using it. I'd like to know what they use for firmware. Could be the top right, 8 legged chip. Can't see from the pictures

I don't plan to go to 60A, at that point if I add panels I will begin to load the second unit I have, I don't want to run them to the floor to stay on the safe side. I might add a little extra load to maybe stay at 40A for normal clear sky and keep the extra 20A for ray scattering.

So far I go at 39-40A when I get sun and good ray scattering clouds (with is most of the days now as we are approaching the monsoon. On clear skies, I stay at about 33A from noon-ish to 4pm

Yes, they don't have "autodetect" AFAIK And yes, I did set the voltage myself If I plug my 48v unit on 24V, it have a small "fault" with a battery icon flashing on the screen

I do have two V119, 60A, 48V unit. I have nothing bad to say about these, especially for the price I paid. Using only one for now but well, I paid 80$ for both on discount on Aliexpress. For MakeSkyBlue unit, always buy them on the official aliexpress store (there are so many fake). To know if...

It came to my attention that many people still buy PowMr SCC products. The Charge controllers they make are ripoff of MakeSkyBlue brand. PowMr old charge controller (just PowMr 60A on aliexpress, does look like the makeskyblue except it have a green label instead of orange): Dangerous, can...

Here is a MakeSkyBlue 60A Look like the PowMr M60-Pro is still a ripoff product of the MakeSkyBlue 60A. But it might be on par with the actual product. (depending of what firmware they use as the old PowMr ripoff use MakeSkyBlue official but outdated V112 firmware).

Here board comparison Left : PowMr M60-PRO (No idea how good it is) Right : PowMr 60A (Confirmed ripoff of MakeSkyBlue 60A. MakeSkyBlue is fine, PowMr 60A is dangerous) Considering they use to make shitty and dangerous ripoff of other products (and probably still do because still on sale). I...

PowMr make ripoff of MakeSkyBlue solar controller that are dangerous / fire catching. But I have no idea about the reliability of there Inverter/charge controller combo (if they buy it from another OEM or if it's a ripoff of something else).

For one thing, You will need one circuit per invertor (isolated circuits). Or get inverters than can be synchronized to be in phase. Probably simpler to just get one good inverter.

That is what I expect too, Once ETH finally switch proof of scam only, except if somehow we get a new coin that is GPU minable and serve some purpose that the current scams don't have. ASIC aside, There is only one coin worth mining imo, and it require CPU, not GPU I expect other GPU coins...

When you are mining, you are helping securing the network of that specific coin. That link explain it for bitcoin. It's roughly the same for other coin : https://www.investopedia.com/tech/how-does-bitcoin-mining-work/

Distributed computing GPU have many shaders units usually more than 2000 of them. They normally where designed to compute pixels but instead in the case of mining it allow processing > 2000 computations per cycle. Massively parallel compared to just using a CPU. So it come done to run the...

It's the same, say the sticker under the unit (online store say reliableinverter) and "facebook" say wzrelb with is another name for the reliable unit. I did watch the unpacking of one unit and I confirm the box, manual, packing... Was exactly like my Reliable unit.

I just re-read you're first post and I see that you look for an inverter/charger, if so i'm not sure Reliable have theses. That said, if you're willing to change the voltage, as I think you already have a 12V unit, then I would ratter go directly to 48V. That way it leave room for upgrade later...

Yeah, it is also available in 12V flavor for the 3000W unit. I would not trust that personally for the same reason. https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32360288702.html That's the one i'm using, but 48V of course.