Powmr 3000w inverter charger any good?

[73powerstroke]

Are these any good. There's one local used $400
I need to replace my hf inverter

 

[DestroyFX]

Powmr are ripoff brand for MakeSkyBlue product.

MakeSkyBlue SCC are totally fine while identically looking Powmr like to catch on fire.
I have no experience about MakeSkyBlue/Powmr Inverter but if it's like there charge controller, stay away from the ripoff brand.

For that price you can get a "Reliable" Inverter if you like to stay in Chinese made products. There are like there brand suggest, reliable.

Reliable Electric Power Store - Amazing prodcuts with exclusive discounts on AliExpress

Discover the wide range of from AliExpress Top Seller Reliable Electric Power Store.Enjoy ✓Free Shipping Worldwide! ✓Limited Time Sale ✓Easy Return.

aliexpress.com

 

[73powerstroke]

Powmr are ripoff brand for MakeSkyBlue product.

MakeSkyBlue SCC are totally fine while identically looking Powmr like to catch on fire.
I have no experience about MakeSkyBlue/Powmr Inverter but if it's like there charge controller, stay away from the ripoff brand.

For that price you can get a "Reliable" Inverter if you like to stay in Chinese made products. There are like there brand suggest, reliable.

Reliable Electric Power Store - Amazing prodcuts with exclusive discounts on AliExpress

Discover the wide range of from AliExpress Top Seller Reliable Electric Power Store.Enjoy ✓Free Shipping Worldwide! ✓Limited Time Sale ✓Easy Return.

aliexpress.com

I was going to get one from Santan solar but I read a lot of really bad reviews on those on Amazon
Thus one here has good and bad

Reliable 2000W 12V Inverter 120VAC - SanTan Solar Store

Buy our Reliable 2000W 12V Inverter 120VAC, great design with amazing technology. Get today for only $250

store.santansolar.com

 

[DestroyFX]

I was going to get one from Santan solar but I read a lot of really bad reviews on those on Amazon

Yep, Even for Reliable, it depend of the model.
The "flat" units, like the one at Santan solar, are only good up to 3000W.
It seam that the unit 5000W+ build in that form factor suicide quite easily. For that power, Reliable have an updated model that is also twice as thick. (see picture to see the two different form factors. Left format = don't go over 3000W model). All the units in that pictures are Reliable 5000W models.

 

[73powerstroke]

Yep, Even for Reliable, it depend of the model.
The "flat" units, like the one at Santan solar, are only good up to 3000W.
It seam that the unit 5000W+ build in that form factor suicide quite easily. For that power, Reliable have an updated model that is also twice as thick. (see picture to see the two different form factors. Left format = don't go over 3000W model). All the units in that pictures are Reliable 5000W models.

View attachment 101390

I've noticed the new one. I want 2000w to 3000w. As long as it can't run my ac unit like my 2000w cheap harbor freight one does. Is $250 good price? Or should I look at the new design

 

[DestroyFX]

I've noticed the new one. I want 2000w to 3000w. As long as it can't run my ac unit like my 2000w cheap harbor freight one does. Is $250 good price? Or should I look at the new design

250$ is about the price you pay for a 3000W (flat) unit from aliexpress.
It's what I actually use in my offgrid system since January (but the 48V version). It's good enough to run the house including the fridge and to burn excess production by mining cryptos

 

[MichaelK]

I've noticed the new one. I want 2000w to 3000w. As long as it can't run my ac unit like my 2000w cheap harbor freight one does. Is $250 good price? Or should I look at the new design

Is this for 12V? A 3000W label on a 12V product is simply scam advertising to get you to look at the product. It is NOT a real number! I'll bet you a dollar that that product is NOT UL/CE listed? It's simple math. 3000W/12V = 250A of current. I don't want to be around when an inverter tries to pull 250A out of a battery.

You are far better off upgrading to at least a 24V system. I myself am running loads as high as 3600W, but that's with a 48V inverter. That makes for more sane battery draws.

 

[DestroyFX]

Is this for 12V? A 3000W label on a 12V product is simply scam advertising to get you to look at the product. It is NOT a real number! I'll bet you a dollar that that product is NOT UL/CE listed? It's simple math. 3000W/12V = 250A of current. I don't want to be around when an inverter tries to pull 250A out of a battery.

You are far better off upgrading to at least a 24V system. I myself am running loads as high as 3600W, but that's with a 48V inverter. That makes for more sane battery draws.

Yeah, it is also available in 12V flavor for the 3000W unit. I would not trust that personally for the same reason.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32360288702.html That's the one i'm using, but 48V of course.

 

[73powerstroke]

Yeah, it is also available in 12V flavor for the 3000W unit. I would not trust that personally for the same reason.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32360288702.html That's the one i'm using, but 48V of course.

I'll see if they have a 24v

 

[DestroyFX]

I'll see if they have a 24v

I just re-read you're first post and I see that you look for an inverter/charger, if so i'm not sure Reliable have theses.

That said, if you're willing to change the voltage, as I think you already have a 12V unit, then I would ratter go directly to 48V. That way it leave room for upgrade later (can replace the inverter for a higher rated one without needing to replace everything else). Leaving more flexibility to buy to other upgrades as needed, later.

 

[MichaelK]

Actually, before going out and buying anything, I'd strongly advise making an itemized list of what you want to power first, design second, and finally purchase third.

You really haven't mentioned in detail what it is you want to run, so it might make sense to stick with 12V, or it might make sense to jump immediately to 48V. Details!!!

 

[73powerstroke]

Actually, before going out and buying anything, I'd strongly advise making an itemized list of what you want to power first, design second, and finally purchase third.

You really haven't mentioned in detail what it is you want to run, so it might make sense to stick with 12V, or it might make sense to jump immediately to 48V. Details!!!

I'm currently running a 5000btu ac unit. I want to maybe run a second one. Right now I have more panels than anything. Not enough cc only 2 40amp cc.

 

[73powerstroke]

I just re-read you're first post and I see that you look for an inverter/charger, if so i'm not sure Reliable have theses.

That said, if you're willing to change the voltage, as I think you already have a 12V unit, then I would ratter go directly to 48V. That way it leave room for upgrade later (can replace the inverter for a higher rated one without needing to replace everything else). Leaving more flexibility to buy to other upgrades as needed, later.

I dont need the charger part. I wouldn't ever use it much

 

[MichaelK]

I'm currently running a 5000btu ac unit. I want to maybe run a second one. Right now I have more panels than anything. Not enough cc only 2 40amp cc.

Air-conditioning can be tough! You very definately want more than 12V for an air-conditioner. My unit is 8000BTU, and the running wattage is ~750W, so I'd guestimate your unit needs 450W to run. It would be great if you could get it on a clamp meter to find out exactly how many amps it draws.

Two important considerations. First, since it has a motor, you will definately want a sine-wave inverter. Secondly, it's a motor that starts under load, so it will have some starting surge between 2X and 4X the running draw. A clamp meter that can measure inrush current will tell you exactly what that is. I use a Uni-T 216C.

Assuming you have 4X starting surge, you need an inverter that can handle at least 1800W, just for the air-con.

Inverters can be divided into two big groups, low-frequency transformer-based models, which have very high starting surge capability, and high-frequency transformerless inverters that have no starting surge capability. In the real-world, that means a 1000W LF inverter might run your air-con just fine, though a 2000W HF inverter might not.

Now, is this for a cabin, that has other appliances like lights, a TV, and a refrigerator, or is this just a one-room system that needs to power nothing except the air-con? Will the air-con run just during daylight hours, or all night long? Answering these questions will let us fine-tune your system to come up with something that is dependable.

 

[73powerstroke]

Air-conditioning can be tough! You very definately want more than 12V for an air-conditioner. My unit is 8000BTU, and the running wattage is ~750W, so I'd guestimate your unit needs 450W to run. It would be great if you could get it on a clamp meter to find out exactly how many amps it draws.

Two important considerations. First, since it has a motor, you will definately want a sine-wave inverter. Secondly, it's a motor that starts under load, so it will have some starting surge between 2X and 4X the running draw. A clamp meter that can measure inrush current will tell you exactly what that is. I use a Uni-T 216C.

Assuming you have 4X starting surge, you need an inverter that can handle at least 1800W, just for the air-con.

Inverters can be divided into two big groups, low-frequency transformer-based models, which have very high starting surge capability, and high-frequency transformerless inverters that have no starting surge capability. In the real-world, that means a 1000W LF inverter might run your air-con just fine, though a 2000W HF inverter might not.

Now, is this for a cabin, that has other appliances like lights, a TV, and a refrigerator, or is this just a one-room system that needs to power nothing except the air-con? Will the air-con run just during daylight hours, or all night long? Answering these questions will let us fine-tune your system to come up with something that is dependable.

I run my 6000btu and 5000btu no problem. One draws 70 and the other draws 50. It's funny I just made a video about the output from cc. If you look really quick you'll see my shunt meter reading the 70amp draw with my ac on. I've had it on over a hour now. I run it everyday on this system. The smaller ac is in the house bedroom. This one is in my work shop.

 

[73powerstroke]

Maybe this would be the same internally as the reliable unit
XYZ INVT 2000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter 24V DC to AC 110v 120V, 2000W Power Invert Surge 2000W Power Converter for Car RV Solar System. (2000W 24V 120V) https://a.co/d/8bMep1M

 

[DestroyFX]

Maybe this would be the same internally as the reliable unit
XYZ INVT 2000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter 24V DC to AC 110v 120V, 2000W Power Invert Surge 2000W Power Converter for Car RV Solar System. (2000W 24V 120V) https://a.co/d/8bMep1M

It's the same, say the sticker under the unit (online store say reliableinverter) and "facebook" say wzrelb with is another name for the reliable unit.

I did watch the unpacking of one unit

and I confirm the box, manual, packing... Was exactly like my Reliable unit.