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I have asked an attorney to explore the possibility of a class-action law suit. I have also filed a complaint with the FTC at https://reportfraud.ftc.gov/#/. The more complaints they get, the more likely they will force WFCO to do right by the customers who bought this POS.

Their tech rep said there needed to be at least a 2 volt difference in the battery's charge and the converter's voltage. I just saw this comment on the video linked above: "I had to push my LiFePo4 bank well below the manufacturer's recommended discharge floor before this "trick" would work...

I recently installed WFCO's "auto-detect" replacement converter and board for our trailer's OEM WFCO 8955 converter. Their claim of auto-detection of "the battery's chemistry" is clearly not accurate as it never got anywhere near the charge rate for LiFePO4 batteries. So, looking up the issue, I...

From the linked PDF... "Voltage Rating AC/DC: 600"

Victron is the "gold standard"...

I found a complete WFCO 8955AD for $206.99 delivered. It took about five minutes to pull the converter and circuit board out of the housing. I also pulled the two small bus bars out that I'll have fun with somewhere down the line! It took three days to get here...

I have a question that this thread's topic triggered... I keep seeing a lot of installation pics in RVs with components mounted on both carpet-covered and uncovered plywood and keep wondering if they missed this in the manual, or if I just take things to literally/seriously? "Mount the solar...

Glad no one was hurt and there wasn't more damage done! That had to be nerve wracking... How were the cells secured, and were they secured directly to the floor or to a mounting board and then the floor? Was there ANY possibility for even the slightest movement?

Depending on when it came off the factory line, it might already have a lithium-capable converter already. Airstream started installing lithium capable converters in 2021.

It is the Victron Smart Shunt.

Thanks for the advice. I just got the breaker today, and it does show the + side is on the right. I am redoing the plans to where the red cable is on the right side of the breaker and will post a corrected version ASAP.

All manuals and diagrams I have found say that you should break both positive and negative from the solar panels for a true disconnect. "NEC 2020 Article 690.13 section (E) States that “ The PV System disconnecting means shall simultaneously disconnect the PV system conductors that are not...

Thanks! Getting the wire and lugs for it this afternoon!

Hard to tell on the pic of the Blue Sea breaker since they don’t have their name on the face of the breaker. It cost more that the “look alike” breakers, but will do its job when needed.

Thanks for the info on grounding the MPPT, exactly what I was looking for. The battery disconnect switch is made by AMPPER and is rated for 600 A continuous at DC 12V, 2500 A momentary at DC 12V. It should more than suffice for such a small system. That is a Blue Sea Systems 7035 187 Series...

Thanks to everyone for the advice on the fuses and connections. If anyone has any advice on the grounding of the solar controller, I'd appreciate the input on size of wire and where to ground it.

If you meant the WFCO converter, it is a WF8955AD, which puts out 55 amps DC and automatically sets the charging profile to lead or lithium.

I was given a small Victron Smart Solar 100/20. It is rated for up to 100 volts and outputs 20 amps. I would have bought a larger one, but free is hard to beat and it can take all the panels can give. They are 100 watt HQST mono panels and have a VoC of 21.6 volts and ISC of 6.5 amps. We only...

You guys rock. Seriously. Thanks for the input. I had considered adding fuses, but then checked some of the diagrams and didn't see any in the picture. What I missed was an explanation from Will in the text that I'd need fuses IF I went with more than two panels in parallel. I knew I needed...

Thanks! The manufacturer sells a 15 amp fuse holder for the panel. Better safe than sorry!

Thanks for the link! The dual pole circuit breaker is more for a disconnect than circuit protection. The various diagrams I've seen said to use a higher-than-ever anticipated rated breaker so it functions more as a "switch" than as a "circuit breaker". For safety's sake, I'm adding 15 amp...

Thanks for the info. I'm using MC4 branch connectors to hook up the panels in parallel, then one cable to the double-pole circuit breaker. So, I need to add an inline fuse on each panel's positive cable between it and the branch connectors?

The breaker in the diagram is a double-pole DC breaker which will break both lines.

Thanks to all I have learned here and from reviewing various videos and online forums and Victron videos and manuals, I have drawn up a diagram for a simple 300 watt portable solar system I am planning as part of a change of our trailer's lead acid batteries to lithium and adding a portable...

Any ETA for a teardown video of this battery? The old adage "If it seems to good to be true..." has me worried but I am sorely tempted.