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200A Manual Transfer Switch?

I have had very good luck buying used Square D double throw transfer switches on ebay,
for reasonable $$$.
If you are not in a hurry, set up a saved search "square d double throw".
Here are some I found today:
eBay item number:295590601247
eBay item number:125607216207

And the one I bought from ebay for $200 a few years ago:

square d manual transfer switch copy.jpg
 
I have had very good luck buying used Square D double throw transfer switches on ebay,
for reasonable $$$.
Great suggestion! I've bought a bunch of NOS/gently used Square D disco's and safety switches on eBay. As you mentioned if you can be patient or are willing to buy 3 things in a lot to get the one thing you want for 1/2 the price of somewhere else it's a great way to go about doing it.

I just bought some Anderson connectors for a steal.

I hate to even share this deal but it's a very good one on Carling 2 pole DC rated breakers that AREN'T directional. I've bought several of them for projects lately.
 
I went with a three pole double throw so that I'm switching neutral as well as both legs, but I only needed 100a. A 200a is around $1,900. But yeah, they take up some space, even the two pole.
 
I assume the Sol-ark is between your main panel and critical loads panel? If you turn off the breaker to the main panel from the grid, that would island you. However, I am not sure the Sol-ark would backfeed the grid line in a grid down situation. It is designed to island from the grid when grid down.

It would have been better to install the Sol-ark between your grid and main panel.

It may be easier to move the circuits you want to the critical loads panel.
 
Found this on another forum:
Standard Reference: CSA C22.2 No. 178.2-04 Clause 5.9.5
Removal of covers, doors or access panels shall not result in defeating the interlocking mechanism.

I have a 60a critical load subpanel with an interlock? that is not attached to the panel cover. I'm hoping this is acceptable for my main panel as well, but I'll be looking into this further over the next few days.
I assume the Sol-ark is between your main panel and critical loads panel?
Yes currently.
am not sure the Sol-ark would backfeed the grid line in a grid down situation.
Correct it will not
It would have been better to install the Sol-ark between your grid and main panel.
Yes this was not an option at the time of install
It may be easier to move the circuits you want to the critical loads panel.
The CLP is full, and I would like the entire main panel backed up with solar / batts.
 
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Since you can't backfeed from the Sol-ark during grid down I don't see the benefit of a transfer switch. You seem to want to take your main panel off grid, which can be easily accomplished by turning off the breaker to the grid line. But that doesn't address the problem that the Sol-ark won't backfeed during grid down.

What you need is to wire the load output of the Sol-ark into the input of your main panel, and wire the grid into the grid input of the Sol-ark. If you have room to install a transfer switch, you should have room to do the wiring.
 
Yes.

Yes.

And what happens when I need to service the inverter? Did you read the post?
That's one of the two reasons I installed my transfer switch. Just used it about a week ago when adding batteries and reworking some cabling. I switched the CL back to grid, did all the work, switched it back to solar. I liked it. Wife was happy. All good. The other reason was equipment failure. Because it's equipment and sooner or later it's going to fail. Hopefully much, much later.
 
That's one of the two reasons I installed my transfer switch. Just used it about a week ago when adding batteries and reworking some cabling. I switched the CL back to grid, did all the work, switched it back to solar. I liked it. Wife was happy. All good. The other reason was equipment failure. Because it's equipment and sooner or later it's going to fail. Hopefully much, much later.
Winner winner chicken dinner
 
If you have the room
Good point about the space available in the big transfer switch box.
Old style CT's for old analog meters fit fine.
Also surge suppressors!
I discovered the hard way that switching under load induces a giant spike that some electronics are not happy about....
generator_transfer_switch_2020 copy.jpg
 
I use one of these:
EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate Surge Protection 3rd Edition, 2.38" Length, 5.25" Width 7.5" Height https://a.co/d/cWNBBEn

I’m always a little skeptical if they work but I installed anyway.
 
Good point about the space available in the big transfer switch box.
Old style CT's for old analog meters fit fine.
Also surge suppressors!
I discovered the hard way that switching under load induces a giant spike that some electronics are not happy about....
View attachment 142409
If it's scheduled maintenance I do the switchover when the load is low. Usually in the morning when PV input is low as well. If I have an equipment down situation then there probably won't be any load anyway. I do worry a little about that. I should probably look into something to mitigate it. But not today. :)
 
CEC = California Energy Commission (publishes regulations and approves hardware)
CEC = Clean Energy Council (Australia, also solar)

Yeah it's confusing.
Yeah, but contextually, the poster is in Canada, so....
 
Interesting, 3 questions:
1. I thought generac's auto transfer switches were proprietary, in that it wouldn't work unless it detects a generac generator or some other generac product?
2. The one you have "rigged-up" would it transfer automatically if you want it to?
3. How complicated is the procedure for rigging one up?

1) As I understand it, the signaling is not proprietary to generac. You can mix and match transfer switches and generators. That being said, I would not "assume" compatibility before purchasing.

2) I have not rigged one up. I'm simply stating that the transfer switch seems to be a large 200A A/B switch (with a manual throw) - the "automated" throw of that switch is run by magnets and whatever trigger conditions are within the ATS. I do have simple "load shed" devices (up to 100A) that are simple "normally closed" switches that are held open by grid power.

3) I don't think it's complicated. But I'm not sure why we have to "rig one up" - The difference is manually switching them (which is available) or some sort of push-button control. On mine, I'm betting it'd be as simple as manipulating something that senses grid power.. But why would I do that if I'm manually running the switch.

I did mine as it should be installed per generac, but I have friends running their own generic generator control on their on transfer switches.

What are you after? An interlock switch is a LOT easier (cheaper) and can do the whole panel.
 
I've called 15+ electrical companies and nobody is able to help. Some get scared off when I mention solar, others have no idea what hardware would be code compliant aside from expensive auto transfer switches.

Regarding the interlock option, I am not able to find something off the shelf, nor can I find someone to fabricate.

Looks like I'm SOL (pun intended)
 
I've called 15+ electrical companies and nobody is able to help. Some get scared off when I mention solar, others have no idea what hardware would be code compliant aside from expensive auto transfer switches.

Regarding the interlock option, I am not able to find something off the shelf, nor can I find someone to fabricate.

Looks like I'm SOL (pun intended)
If you want to be 100% sure then have an electrician install a 200a fused disconnect at your meter base. That will be expensive but you will pass inspection anywhere. Any electrician can do that. I just passed an inspection today with an ATS but they could have just as easily rejected it too.
 
If you want to be 100% sure then have an electrician install a 200a fused disconnect at your meter base. That will be expensive but you will pass inspection anywhere. Any electrician can do that. I just passed an inspection today with an ATS but they could have just as easily rejected it too.
As for the manual transfer switch if you choose to go that route take the appropriate line drawing to any electrical contractor and they will install everything according to the line drawing. There are several in the Sol Ark manual. I did exactly this and we had zero issues and a great install.
 
Yeah but I was looking at the Canadian site, hoping to source something from Canada. Good to know I have options though.

Double throw means it can point to 2 different loads (as well as off)?

Backyard wedding this summer, a lot of important circuits on my main panel I want backed up.
Yes, a double-throw switch can connect to two different loads or circuits and have an "off" position where no load is connected. It can be a useful option for backup power or for controlling multiple circuits from a single switch.

Regarding your backyard wedding and backing up important circuits on your main panel, you may consider using a backup power generator or an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) system. These devices can provide temporary power in case of an outage or can act as a backup power source for critical circuits. Make sure to consult with a licensed electrician to ensure proper installation and safety precautions.
 
If you want to be 100% sure then have an electrician install a 200a fused disconnect at your meter base. That will be expensive but you will pass inspection anywhere. Any electrician can do that. I just passed an inspection today with an ATS but they could have just as easily rejected it too.
I am looking for an electrician to help me. I am hoping they can at least install the 200amp fused disconnect before the 200amp double throw switch. Is this always installed outdoors next to the meter? What if I have a 400 amp, and there is only one 200amp fused disconnect for one of the 200amp panels?
 
It’s big because you’re bringing in several BIG wires and you need room. Once you start wiring it the room is welcome.
For the Solark 15k, do you only need to switch the 240v black/red? Do you also need to switch the neutral? Maybe not?
 

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