48v System, considering switching to All-in-One before installing

[CarlCruzin]

Before I install my off-grid RV 48v system, I am considering switching from a Sungoldpower (aims) 4kw 48v pure sine inverter to a MPP solar LVX6048 48v all-in-one reviewed in Will's recent video

.

Current Sungold: https://tinyurl.com/jyz4y7bc
Proposed MPP: https://tinyurl.com/2p9ys8hc

I still need to buy a solar charge controller if I stuck with what I have and those seem to be around $350 for the 2kw solar I will be installing, hence decreasing the cost benefit of sticking with what I have. Aside from the cost of switching over, is there a reason I shouldn't?

It seems that it offers a lot of simplicity, fewer components, and high power capacity. I would like to be able to power both of my RV air conditioners, utilize generator auto-start, and later sort out a way of utilizing this system to be the backup power source for my home in a utility outage.

One contrast that I can see is the sungoldpower unit has a power saving mode, where the MPP does not:
Power saver function is designed to conserve battery power when AC power is not or rarely required by the loads. In this mode, the inverter pulses the AC output looking for an AC load (i.e., electrical appliance). Whenever an AC load (greater than 25 watts) is turned on, the inverter recognizes the need for power and automatically starts inverting and output goes to full voltage. When there is no load (or less than 25 watts) detected, the inverter automatically goes back into search mode to minimize energy consumption from the battery bank. In “Power saver on” mode, the inverter will draw power mainly in sensing moments, thus the idle consumption is significantly reduced

The MPP unit also has a 100A max battery charge current (combined between solar and grid). This would be a significant increase from the sungoldpower unit which only has a 40A rating.

My proposed system would include:
2x 48v Gyll 5kwh batteries
2kw solar panels mounted on the roof

 

[BMcL]

That unit looks really nice. I needed a much larger system, so I went with the 18kw SunGold power.
I like how Will explained the idle standby power use wasn't a big deal. Love his videos.

 

[offgriddave]

I'm still new to this but let me write up what I think

I have the split phase LV 5048. I am currently not using. The stand by consumption usage is about "60w". I put this in quotes because if you use power, it does seem to me that 50% or 30w first comes from that 60w usage so as long as you are utilizing a small load it isn't a big loss.

however, If you watch the video above regarding the LVX 6048 it has an incredibly wasteful 120 watt stand by consumption. If you are off grid, this is really important. I wish manufactures would put this up front.

There's a thread keeping track of the stand by wattage usage.
Here's one

Idle 'no load' Consumption: Specs vs Your Personal Observation

Its pretty cool that you've gathered/kept detailed data on conversion efficiency. How are you measuring/tracking this? The PV input number is from Midnite Classic 150s The Inverter output (power consumed) is from cheap ebay meters on each 120v leg of the AIMS. Efficiency % = "Ebay Meter...

diysolarforum.com

If you think about this, 120watts for 24 hours a day that's 2880 watt hours of battery, solar panels, connectors, fuses, etc not helping you at all. It will drain one EG4 LL battery in a day and a half.

I would say because the large stand by consumption I would re-consider

I am going to try and still use my LV5048 in charge mode only with a Victron 375VA on a bus bar. Not sure if it will work out, but hoping the LV5048 charge controller will work without draining the battery and keep my usage under 300-700w(surge) on the Victron, which only uses 13w in stand by. Then in the late Spring to Fall, use the LV5048.

 

[CarlCruzin]

I'm still new to this but let me write up what I think

I have the split phase LV 5048. I am currently not using. The stand by consumption usage is about "60w". I put this in quotes because if you use power, it does seem to me that 50% or 30w first comes from that 60w usage so as long as you are utilizing a small load it isn't a big loss.

however, If you watch the video above regarding the LVX 6048 it has an incredibly wasteful 120 watt stand by consumption. If you are off grid, this is really important. I wish manufactures would put this up front.

There's a thread keeping track of the stand by wattage usage.
Here's one

Idle 'no load' Consumption: Specs vs Your Personal Observation

Its pretty cool that you've gathered/kept detailed data on conversion efficiency. How are you measuring/tracking this? The PV input number is from Midnite Classic 150s The Inverter output (power consumed) is from cheap ebay meters on each 120v leg of the AIMS. Efficiency % = "Ebay Meter...

diysolarforum.com

If you think about this, 120watts for 24 hours a day that's 2880 watt hours of battery, solar panels, connectors, fuses, etc not helping you at all. It will drain one EG4 LL battery in a day and a half.

I would say because the large stand by consumption I would re-consider

I am going to try and still use my LV5048 in charge mode only with a Victron 375VA on a bus bar. Not sure if it will work out, but hoping the LV5048 charge controller will work without draining the battery and keep my usage under 300-700w(surge) on the Victron, which only uses 13w in stand by. Then in the late Spring to Fall, use the LV5048.

I emailed tech support for that unit and they did not recommend it for RV usage as the solar charge controller has a minimum 160v! That combined with the high idle consumption rules it out for me.

Also, I found out that my Onan generator has a single phase output so it will not be compatible with a split phase inverter if I am wanting to charge my batteries with it. Looks like I will have to stick with my existing single phase inverter

 

[TorC]

A couple things to consider: first, "split phase" is more a marketing term than a real power term, and usually seen on inverters but not generators. It refers to single phase 240VAC with a center tap that is conventionally held to ground potential. 110V devices (most household appliances) operate from one side of this to the neutral. If your generator has a 220/240V output it provides "split phase."

If your generator is 110V only, then you might have an issue, however some 120/240V inverters will charge from either 120V or 240V, just with a power output around half as much on 120V. Just check the specs before buying an inverter to see that it can use a reasonable percentage of your generator output.