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60V Disconnect disconnection overload?

42OhmsPA

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I'm planning ahead for adding my 3rd pack and having trouble deciding on a proper disconnect.
I attached a crude diagram of the planned setup and a photo of how things sit currently (expect the SRNE is in service) the packs will be reconfigured and put in some sort of enclosure / rack / cabinet. Cell retention will also be added.

I've looked on SS, CC, W247, NAS, SE, amazon and countless threads and bookmarks I've saved and my head is spinning a bit.

Questions.

What is your favorite disconnect rated for at least 60VDC and 300A?
Would you add breakers to each pack along with the class T's?
Any feedback on the fuses on CC in comparison to the Class Ts?
What am I missing?

I realize my current disconnects aren't rated for 48V systems or I'd just reuse them.

Let me know any other info I can provide.
 

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Here's what I'm currently thinking.
Fuses -
This
Or
Breakers / disconnects
3 x https://signaturesolar.com/nader-dc-circuit-breaker-60v-200amp/
Additional SPD for the AC side because the price is excellent https://signaturesolar.com/midnite-solar-lightning-and-surge-arrestor-300ac-mnspd-300ac/

I really wish SS sold a quality class T or capable alternative or any of these vendors had everything I'm looking for.
 
@HighTechLab do you know if this is rated for 60VDC?
No, they are up to 48v absolute max. I edited the listing page to make it less questionable and will have our catalog manager give the whole page a once-over to clean up the details.

That said, we are listing BlueSea Systems Class-T and MRBF fuses and fuseholders tomorrow. We also carry the Midnite surge protectors.

I realize this does not help much in terms of a disconnect, and we hope to have something soon...but in the meantime pretty much all of our 48v battery systems already have disconnecting means built-in.
 
Thank you very much for the fast reply, especially on a Sunday! Looks like I'm waiting until tomorrow to make my purchase.
Will the Midnite be listed tomorrow as well? I'm not seeing them with a search for midnite or surge?

Edit - I'm into DIY packs to deep or SOK would be in my arsenal, I do recommend that route to my not so DIY friends that are interested in solar / ESS.
No, they are up to 48v absolute max. I edited the listing page to make it less questionable and will have our catalog manager give the whole page a once-over to clean up the details.

That said, we are listing BlueSea Systems Class-T and MRBF fuses and fuseholders tomorrow. We also carry the Midnite surge protectors.

I realize this does not help much in terms of a disconnect, and we hope to have something soon...but in the meantime pretty much all of our 48v battery systems already have disconnecting means built-in.
 
I’m using 4 of these 100 amp breakers because I already had them. I have a rack mount panel with matching bus bar from a telecommunications installation but you can get creative with mounting them. I have a 300 amp class T fuse close to the battery and these at the bus bar as current limiting breakers and convenient switches to isolate a battery if needed.

 
This is the label on the other side. Sized appropriately for my 100 amp Overkill BMS
 

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I’m using 4 of these 100 amp breakers because I already had them. I have a rack mount panel with matching bus bar from a telecommunications installation but you can get creative with mounting them. I have a 300 amp class T fuse close to the battery and these at the bus bar as current limiting breakers and convenient switches to isolate a battery if needed.

Thank you. I looked at similar ones on NAZ and Alte. That price on ebay isn't bad at all and they are made in North America.
I like the idea of having something to isolate each battery and want to make sure I'm doing it safely and correct.
 
I’ve touched literally thousands of these breakers over the past 40 years and never saw one fail.

My train of thought is the class T fuse is as physically close to the battery as possible. In my case, about 12” of 2 AWG cable in free air between the positive post of the battery and the fuse, and it’s purpose is a last resort “ oh $hit” safety. The circuit breakers are attached to the bus bar for overload protection and a easy on/off switch for each battery.
 
I agree with that line of thought and picture a diy bus bar with the breakers attached directly to it... I think this just got a lot easier.
 
I have a few very lightly used 125A DIN mount breakers taken out of SOK packs if you want them and they work for you.
 
Latest plan.
I'm scratching the 60v disconnect idea.
I'm thinking of 4 or 5 of these, extra for spares / expansion.
1 of these to cut down and mount the breakers to.
1/4" x 1" C110 Copper Flat BAR 12" Long Solid .250" Plate Mill https://a.co/d/9FCa72s

1AWG from Class T fuses on each pack to the Midnite breakers, the copper bus bar will be drilled to mount the other side of the breakers to. I'll drill out 1 side of the bus bar 3/8" then run 2/0 from the bus to the AIO.

Make sense?
 
Latest plan.
I'm scratching the 60v disconnect idea.
I'm thinking of 4 or 5 of these, extra for spares / expansion.
1 of these to cut down and mount the breakers to.
1/4" x 1" C110 Copper Flat BAR 12" Long Solid .250" Plate Mill https://a.co/d/9FCa72s

1AWG from Class T fuses on each pack to the Midnite breakers, the copper bus bar will be drilled to mount the other side of the breakers to. I'll drill out 1 side of the bus bar 3/8" then run 2/0 from the bus to the AIO.

Make sense?

Basically what I’m doing…this might take a lot of the work out of it for you.

 
Big thanks to @Brett V for the great suggestion on the bus bar.

What are everyone's thoughts on the gap between the cabinet and bar? I'll probably throw some heavy duty electrical tape on the cabinet edges.

Now if I could just remember where I put all my cable glands and come up with a final design for a battery rack I'd really make some progress ?
 

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What about a piece of plywood or plastic cutting board cut to fit between the stand-offs?
 
That's another great idea. I have plenty of cutting board scraps left over that will work. The standoffs should be insulated, I'll meter them to make sure.
If there is enough room I could slide them between the sides of the cabinet and the bus bar too.
I knew I saved those scraps for a reason...
 
Anyone have input on the Midnite studded breaker install? I put everything together with the washers but I'm having 2nd thoughts, I over think things alot...
Going to connect everything up tonight / tomorrow and want to make sure it is the best way.

 
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