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diy solar

A Tentative Plan for This Old Boat...

DBG8492

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Joined
Sep 19, 2023
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Florida
I have been reading his site for about a week and sometimes feel like I'm looking into the business end of an open fire hose nozzle.

I know a bit about 12v and 115v systems (mostly boat stuff) in general, but I know very little about solar as a whole. However, I have it on this boat - a 36 foot Marine Trader Trawler - and I'm looking to upgrade it - along with most (all) of the rest of the 12-volt system.

A few months ago, my fiancé and I bought her basically sight unseen “as is” from the estate of a captain who had passed. It had been sitting dockside for nearly two years with no one even going aboard. As a result, no one knew the battery monitor/control system (Freedom 2000) for the Xantrex Inverter/Charger had failed, and the charger was simply bulk charging the batteries all the time. In addition, there are four 200-watt solar panels and a small controller, and they were hooked up and doing their thing as well.

When we took possession, it didn't take long to survey the extent of the damage – all the batteries (FLA) were completely wasted – eight house, two start, and two windlass/thruster. We replaced the two start with a single, replaced both windlass/thruster batteries with comparable models, and replaced the house banks with two 230 ah deep-cycle marine batteries wired in parallel. I manually control when the Xantrex charges by turning it on and off. No, that’s not ideal – at all – but we knew that we would have to redo the entire 12-volt supply side anyway; we were just looking to get enough to travel the 100 miles necessary to get us to the boat yard.

Fast forward to now. We are in the yard, living in the boat on dry land, and contemplating a new 12v supply system. As a result, I started looking at LiFePO4 batteries for the same reasons everyone else does – weight/storage space reduction and availability of 100% of the Ah capacity.

While living on land, our computed power needs top out around 200 Ah a day – all from running the (super old and inefficient) 12v fridge and some lights. Everything else runs on 115v, including all the power tools we will use during the refit.

I like the SOK 204 Ah battery and feel that our long-term cruising needs would be met by at least two – but preferably three – of them running in parallel. I have computed our expected loads when underway/at anchor, and they top out at around 370 Ah a day - call it 400, if you will. I plan to replace the Xantrex with a Victron MultiPlus and replace all four solar panels with 250-watt versions along with the appropriate MPPT controller(s) and fuses…etc. From there, I will add whatever else is required to keep the house (SOK) batteries charged properly using a combination of solar, generator, and/or alternator. The start and windlass/thruster batteries would be switched for SLA charged by just the alternator.

However, doing this wholesale would cost more than I make in a month – just for the equipment, and as a result, I’d like to eat this elephant in smaller bites.

The way I see it, one SOK 206 Ah battery will provide nearly the same capacity as the two deep-cycles we have now – and will cover us while on the hard. However, I don’t want to hook it up to the Xantrex – it’s not a good charger in the first place, and it’s as old as the hills – Plus, it pushes too many amps for the SOK.

Therefore, my initial thought for the first step was to ditch both house batteries and remove the Xantrex completely, replacing them with one SOK 206 and a Victron IP67 30 Amp charger, followed shortly after by all new solar panels and a controller. This whole setup should also cover the second SOK – also purchased before we get underway again.

And since we won't be back in the water until next spring, I have plenty of time to plan out and build a complete charging system with the MultiPlus and whatever other components are needed while considering what’s necessary to add the third SOK either before we splash, or shortly thereafter.

As I said, I drank from the fire hose over the past couple of weeks, but I still don't know... So I'm asking you all: Does doing it in stages like this sound workable?
 
Does doing it in stages like this sound workable?
If you plan it logically there is nothing wrong with scaling up over time. Just don’t go buying stuff unless you know it’s compatible for your final answer.
We replaced the two start with a single
I strongly discourage you from wetting the hull again unless you have two healthy, new starting batteries that you can select A/off/B/both with a quality switch like bluesea. Two battery redundancy could save your life while keeping the chandlery happy.

Personally I’d buy marine rated LiFePo’s if you are salt sailing with the little trawler. Even in freshwater it’s a good idea.
 
If you plan it logically there is nothing wrong with scaling up over time. Just don’t go buying stuff unless you know it’s compatible for your final answer.

I strongly discourage you from wetting the hull again unless you have two healthy, new starting batteries that you can select A/off/B/both with a quality switch like bluesea. Two battery redundancy could save your life while keeping the chandlery happy.

Personally I’d buy marine rated LiFePo’s if you are salt sailing with the little trawler. Even in freshwater it’s a good idea.
Why do you feel the need for marine rated? What does that mean? Are you talking IP rating? Is the full electrical installation IP rated? Engine, alternator, starter motor? I think its more importent to consider where batteries are located. Don't stick them under the floorboards!
On my boat, the water needs to get to the saloon cushions before it will flood the battery box. At that point, it is pretty irrelevant if the batteries have an IP rating. All my cables and connections will be shorting in sea water. Far better to have automatic bilge pumps and sounders to tell you they are running every time they switch on. You only panick when they don't switch off.
My batteries are in waterproof boxes. One for each battery. By the time they are submerged, I will be abandoning ship
 
If on a budget, and who isn't? Possibly consider these batteries that Will has on his site. Save you a few hundred to start. No they are not marine but as you state this is a trawler with an enclosed cabin and mounted high inside. Maybe in a sailboat at bilge level would not consider but have seen even DIY battery packs in sailboats with no issues.
https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html
 
FWIW: I've been using an iPowerQueen all summer on my sailboat with a trolling motor (granted, fresh water) and on my back porch. From the looks of it, it is the same case/shell as half of the of the bargain brands on amazon (Chins, LiTime, ReDoDo, etc) and is glued shut for sealing. I personally believe (disclaimer: I'm not an engineer and only play one on the internet) that if the connections were watertight, it work be safe underwater. Any battery that says it is safe for a trolling motor is going to be splash tolerant. The only advantage I see of some of the marine grade batteries is that they can be opened up for maintenance(?), but the down side is that if opened, I would think they would need to be resealed.

If I had a cabin cruiser or other type with plenty of space for a full system above the main deck line and in an dry interior compartment, I would use these rack-mount batteries that Will has shown, although I might coat them with some automotive or marine coating to prevent corrosion, both on the case (wax) and on the terminals (dielectric grease). Salty air corrosion at connections due to electrolysis would be my biggest concern. YMMV
 
The only advantage I see of some of the marine grade batteries is that they can be opened up for maintenance(?)
Read above. It’s not about water, salt or not.
It’s about dependable service without failure
 
Read above. It’s not about water, salt or not.
It’s about dependable service without failure
Other folks will have to give there experiences, but "marine grade" in LFP batteries, doesn't seem to carry the same reliability connotations that we are used to with "marine grade" in other equipment, at least not from some of the threads I read. Looking forward to hearing your decision and results.
 
Other folks will have to give there experiences, but "marine grade" in LFP batteries, doesn't seem to carry the same reliability connotations that we are used to with "marine grade" in other equipment, at least not from some of the threads I read. Looking forward to hearing your decision and results.
That has truth in it. Will has reviewed a few marine-rated batteries in the past. IP67 is one thing, as are the connectors and connections. It sounds like you know this but most people do not know the difference imho.
 
That has truth in it. Will has reviewed a few marine-rated batteries in the past. IP67 is one thing, as are the connectors and connections. It sounds like you know this but most people do not know the difference imho.
"Build Quality" seems to be a thing of the past. And there are very few brands (of anything) that try to maintain more than an 'image" of quality. Some of these Chinese "brands" are laughable, but we keep buying their crap, so I guess they are having the last laugh. :(
 
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